20 Most Recent 1997 Dodge Ram - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Two independent systems. Horn just wears out, needs to be replaced usually. Washer fluid pump or a broken line, have a friend hit the button for washer fluid and see if you can see excess liquid coming from anywhere under the hood. If not, the pump is more than likely just burned out as well. Cheap parts and easy to get at a local auto parts store. Most counter-people will even talk you through a repair like that.

your pre amp is disconnected or bad connections

thats part of the igntion module-probly havta change hole thing-buy a haynes manual or go to library sec629--test it when u getit out-the issue may be somethin else in the ign system

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for. These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out, you will know which system is having the problem.

how about that I guess your cat is working, blowin out that check fuel we all buy ! don't worry about it its normal, OK

if it has a mechanical fuel pump on the block, replace it because its bad..

Under the dash on the passenger's side, right next to the fan (to the left of it) you'll see a plug with 4 wires (green, blue brown, and black with a pinkish tracer) unplug it and remove the 2 screws/bolts (7 mm I think.) Pull out the temp relay (not actual name but it escapes me right now). And Viola, there's your problem. If I've helped please rate my assistance and leave a testimonial. Happy Holidays!

always check your fuel filter first they usually go before the pump does

There was a TSB about this problem that involved installing a one way check valve in the vacuum line that supplies the HVAC box. Make sure that the vacuum res. is not cracked.

You will have a small draw on the iod fuse circuit because the Ecu keep alive memory runs on that circuit. I believe the spec is .5MV What is the problem that you have ? Running batt down? How old is Batt?

When was the last tune-up performed how many miles?

any or most cars charge at about 14v the battery will or should show 12v this is normal for any car is it burning batterys out also there is but not on all cars a relay which regulates the charge going to battery but unsure of your model as from uk but there is a few things for you to check hope this helps ivan

The 360 gas motor uses Hydraulic lifters and no valve adjustment . If you're running a hydraulic valvetrain it's not really lash, it's preload. You adjust it on the back of the lobe when the valve is fully closed. There are charts out there that tell you what the correct adjustment order is, but the way I have been doing it is: Turn the motor to #1 tdc and adjust both valves on #1 Then hand turn the crank 90* or until you reach the next slot in the harmonic balancer- adjust both valves on #8 and so on. The slots indicate tdc firingfor each cylinder. Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

My 95 Dakota did this.When they go out,verify it is the feed by trying the high beams.If they also won't work,look at the feed terminal at the headlight switch.Mine had a overheated terminal pin,causing an intermittent open.You can probably find a replacement pin,replace it,and clean the matching pin on the switch.(I replaced the switch,only to end up taking everything apart again to repair the overheated pin).

Pull the starter out and check the flywheel for missing teeth or being bent.