20 Most Recent 2000 Dodge Ram 3500 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

TORK BIT, MOST LIKELY A "T-15". IT'S A STAR SHAPED BIT FOUND AT ANY HARDWARE STORE.

For the pulsing temp gauge: Check Coolant Temperature Sensor located near the Thermostat.
After this is change - recheck idle.
If still rough on idle, check the Idle Sensor.

Regulator and sliders for the windows Up & Down Movement steadiness, the door handle mechanism which links to the door-jamb cleat on the Right side as you open the door (where the riveted steel stamp is on the inside of the door jamb), your speaker and wires, the cowling and flange for the air movement to defog your mirror... what else do you need?

It should be near the blower motor.

check the fuses they are under the hood

My resources say P1281 is engine is cold too long. That would lead me to possibilty of faulty thermostat, or something else in cooling system. What exactly are you getting for symptoms? No start, poor starting, poor running, ?

i would check the driveline, cairyer bering, and u-joints.

I believe it's very common for the headlight switch to go bad on these. also check to see if there is a headlamp relay that may also be bad. unless both bulbs have the normal lamp filament burnt out and only the highbeams are working.

Make sure connection to IAC are clean & good, and make sure you sprayed port that IAC came out of well to clean it too with throttlebody spray cleaner. Also, check all vacuum lines and intake hoses as well for cracks, holes etc. Have you stopped at Autozone, or Pep boys and have them scan & remove code, just to see if it comes back?

Here are a few pics, hope they help

your insurance company should take care of the repairs or his whomever was at fault either way either the power steering casing is broken causing a leak or a break in the line itself or the belt snapped open the hood and visually look and see what is leaking or the tire could even be rubbing at times without seeing it i cannot say for sure ....but let me know what you discover

8–Stud Rotor

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the wheel.
   
3. Remove the hub extension.
   
4. Remove the brake caliper assembly.
   
5. Remove the axle nut cotter pin. Remove the axle nut.
   
6. Disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor wire from under the hood. Remove the sensor wire from the frame and steering knuckle, if equipped.
   
7. Back off the hub/bearing mounting bolts 1/4 inch each. Then tap the bolts with a hammer to loosen the hub/bearing mounting bolts.
   
8. Remove the bolts and remove the hub/bearing assembly.
   

make sure the truck is fully in park if automatic, or make sure clutch is fully depressed if manual. sounds like neutral start switch

Intake preheat blower?

Sounds like the alternator is bad (not charging). If your battery is good/charged it should run until the battery is drained. If the battery is bad/not charged the car will die as soon as the cables are taken off as there is not enough juice to run the ignition system. If the alternator is good (but battery bad) the car would still run as the alternator makes power to run the car but becasue the battery is dead/drained there is no power to start the car (hense needing the jump). Have the alternator/charging system tested

wheel needs replacing

have you fixed the problem that set the light??
if so, go get a OBD II code reader and hook it up and you can reset the codes with that!!!

change the blower resister module,if this doesnt work replace the control head