20 Most Recent 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Here's the diagram you asked for...

When one glow plug goes the rest get more power,then the next one goes,even more power,you see where i'm going with this.It is possible to loose most of your glow plugs in a short time,to check them use an ohm meter and with the wirein g removed they should go to ground from the terminal the wire was on to the block ,if they don't then they are toast.

you can get that either from autozone.com or from the store itself

go to the automotive and look at the books for your vehicle

Assume you have tried earseing those codes and they keep coming back?
May have a loose or bad ground the engine harness sensor circuit.

typically there is a sticker under the hood showing how to route the belt

Engine lights in modern vehicles are typically caused by emissions problems. You need to hook up a scan tool and check for codes.

Hopefully all you are hearing are poor valve lifters. As the lifters wear they will not hold oil pressure as they should and create a ticking noise as the valves open and close. With luck you can just change out the lifters and bee in good shape with the engine power too. I have seen situation where as the lifters have collapsed so the valves would not open fully causing the engine to run poorly. Being a used engine I'd run a compression test. This will give you a good feel for the condition of the engine. If the compression readings are low it will surely effect the engine's runability.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

Might be a low tire. When they sit over night, and ther isn't enough air in them, they get a flat spot, and it'll stay that way until the tire warms up.

The Heater core is difficult to replace on the RAM since it is buried in the plenum box. The box has a convenient door panel that you can open to remove and replace the core. The catch is that the convenient door is on the back of the box and you have to remove the heater box to get to it. This involves removing the steering wheel, steering column, complete dash panel, evacuating the AC, draining the radiator, and finally removing the heater box. Once you have the box out(8-12hrs), the core is simple to replace.

You want to be sure that the core is the problem before you undertake this process. If there is a strong smell of antifreeze in the cab or a puddle of coolant on the passenger side floor, the diagnosis is easy.

Check that the radiator is full, not the overflow tank, the radiator. On a cold engine you can remove the radiator cap and check the level. It should be full. If there is air in the system it will affect cab heating and engine cooling.

Another good check is to feel the two heater hoses going into the firewall from a cold start. The hoses should warm up at about the same rate and get uncomfortably hot-close to radiator temperature.

If the core appears to be OK, the next concern is with the blend doors that divert air through the heater core. This is a common failure on the RAM. Check heatertreater.net for an explanation of the operation of the system and a fix for the common problems. The RAM has four different DC servo motor controlled air flow doors that are susceptible to failure and all of these need to be checked by either observing the symptoms of failure or reading the codes. The problems are easy to fix with the HeaterTreater kits, but the OEM dealer fix requires removing the plenum box as described above. It is a costly repair if you take it back to the dealer and are not under warranty.

Check for a diagram either on or around your engine or on the underside of the hood of your truck and if not there then you need to either buy a chiltos autoguide for the make, model and year if your truck but check it out first and see if there is ,one in the places I suggested or even near you r trucks radiator or on the side.

the blower motor may be bad but check the blower resistor,if its bad it will work only at low speeds.


this is what it looks like

75w140 syn in both axles and 1 small bottle of additive per 1 liter of gear oil for rear axle

Your recycle door may have broken off and fallen over the suction duct to your blower. You can verify this by removing the blower under the dash on the passenger side. Reach up into the duct and if there is a plastic door obstructing the duct, it has broken off. With a little manuvering you can remove the broken door through this hole and you will have air again, just no control of inside or outside air. Dodge has redesigned the housing for this recycle door which is supposed to stop this from happening. The redesigned housing and door come as a unit from Dodge for about $30.00 and this includes the electric actuator. This requires removing the Dash to change the housing so if your not ready for several hours work, take it to a mechanic.

Either the flap that switches positions from floor/defrost/vents is stuck, or a vacuum line has came off, or there is a nest or other clog either in the fan's squirel cage or in the vent itself

if you have limited slip, make sure you have fresh fluid and limited slip additive. does the differential whine or make noise? if so thats a dead giveaway of a bearing or gear problem, look for metal debris or chunks when you pull the diff cover off

the transmission is dying..... quick, cheap and temporary fix is the to buy a bottle of lucas transmission fluid (the type that thickens the tranny fluid). how many miles do you have on that vehicle ?

check your tie rods and do you have a lift kit on that ? also you may have a belt that has shifted on one of the tires