20 Most Recent 1983 Dodge Charger Questions & Answers

I WOULD START BY CHECKING FOR VACUUM LEAKS AT THE INTAKE GASKET, ALSO CHECK THE EGR VALVE TO SEE IF IT IS LEAKING, IF IT IS THE VALVE BODY WILL BE VERY HOT TO THE TOUCH, WET YOUR FINGERS AND SEE IF THE WATER SIZZLES. IF NO PROBLEM IS FOUNMD THE CARB IS LIELY GOT DIRT INA PASSAGE AND NEEDS TO BE CLEANED AND REBUILT.

Yes, it would be OK to mix it.

those cars are famous for the distributor pickup plate going bad when you take off the distributor cap its the black plate with the short harness on it

you need an adjustable clutch rod for under the dash I found one for my ford in the junk yard

1968

hemmings motor news
google it as it has been a loooong time since I had to do "old school' car work and research

You have too much fluid in it, you could have a head gasket leak and that is why your fluid level is going up and if it keeps going on like this you will soon enough run into engine problems

did you replace the seals? One way to check the band and clutch movements is to, valve body off, use a variable air gun on different ports to apply them. There is a hole by each servo to check the band. There are holes along the front side of the case where the VB mounts. Two of those will apply the forward and direct clutch. One way to check units without pulling trans out!

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800647f7

Question edited for clarity. No it isn't normal. There is probably a change solenoid or sensor issue. Take it to a transmission place and they will put it on a fancy scan tool computer. Tell them you want to see the results. Don't let them tell you that you need a new transmission!

You added the Refrigerant Gas yourself? 'Freon' was banned 30 years ago. The gasses have name like R121A. The system needs to be filled by weight of liquid gas. All of the gas is sucked out by a recovery machine. Then once there is a vacuum, the gas bottle is put on a scale and the correct weight of gas is added with the AC running. That is the only way to do 'maintenance'.

I don't know the location but if you follow the + cable from the battery it connects to the starter .

If this is the engine without a distributor the firing order is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, The cylinder heads are numbered as odds and evens. Standing with the belts and pulley nearest to you, (the transmission furthest away), the left side is the odd numbers and the right side is the even numbers. Number 1 is the left one nearest to you, number 2 is the right one closest to you, 3 is middle left and 4 is middle right, 5 is the far left and 6 is the far right cylinder.

Here are the specs you require: • Camshaft Sprocket Bolts 75 +1?4 Turn ft-lbs • Camshaft Thrust Plate - Bolts 28 ft lbs - 250 in lbs • Connecting Rod Cap -20+ 1/4 turn ft lbs Here are the four steps you should take: 1. Cylinder Head Bolts* 45 ft-lbs 2. Cylinder Head Bolts* 65 ft-lbs 3. Cylinder Head Bolts* 65 ft-lbs 4. Cylinder Head Bolts* +1?4 Turn +1?4 Turn

Hi there's this website something like reliable-store and it is very amazing for manual for repairing servicing anything someone on fixya recommended it to me and I thank him even today They have full manuals and it's verrrrry cheap and mine I got free in offers 3rd time I bought it, I also had an issue with the file so the girl replaced it in 30 mins there is one website more but i don't remember its name it was 2 years back bitman something link this Try these out brother

Probably shorted heater coils

Did it used to be a police vehicle? There is a chance that when the police equipment was removed from the vehicle that something was unplugged that shouldn't have been. If you are not very mechanical I would suggest finding a competent mechanic to take a look at it.

There's a website that has all this information about all this and manuals everything totally free there are many actually but I personal ly like few .. let me know if u need help thanks

Well, this could be a number of things. First, check the fuse for the fuel sending unit to be sure there's power going to it. Next, turn the key to 'power on' but don't start it and try to hear the sending unit 'humm' while it's priming the lines. If you can hear it or you know there's power, pull the key and get underneath and disconnect the fuel line just after the filter and put the key back in and turn it back to the power on, but no start. If everything's good then fuel will start coming out of the lines and you know that there's most likely a blockage further downstream and it's not a faulty sending unit. Good luck!