20 Most Recent 1989 Dodge Spirit - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Remove the tranny dipstick & use a long funnel to access the opening to fillup to the proper level. It is front to drivers side down low. Good luck!

May have to add some blue rtv to the seal, allowing to dry before assembling, but this seal, depending on whether metal rotates or moves around it, may need to have the adjacent parts replaced with new metal parts to make the oem or aftermarket seal work right.

Unfortunately, the metal may have a defect in it causing the camshaft seal to leak.

Good luck on this repair.

hi, might want to check fuel filter , make sure its not clog .but iwould still change it anyway
also check your fuel pump ,make sure passing the right a mount of gas ,next the fuel injectors , useally if the fuel filter clog the injectors are to thanks hope this helps

Look behind the glove box.

Check Fluid Level and Brake booster vacuum. Because of the importance of brakes in a vehicle I highly recommend getting the Haynes or Chilton's repair manual on your vehicle to follow the troubleshooting and repair guidelines listed in those.

Check the oil pressure switch,if it is leaking,it will only leak with engine running,if this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you.

It is and it isn't. If you have the tools...only 1 special tool required really, you could do it. There is a lot of things that need to be removed....that's the easy part. Putting everything back properly is another story.

I can post the whole thing for you to let you make the decision but if you don't have a variety of tools, I wouldn't attempt this one. I also understand about the money but the best thing you could do is maybe have someone help that is mechanically inclined to help out....maybe buy them a case of beer for their help.

The Fram P/N is PH3614

Check your throttle position switch!!

I do not know if you have the 2.5L SOHC, or 2.5L TURBO, or 3.0L V6 Engine; however I have included all of them below.

For the 2.5L SOHC AND 2.5L SOHC TURBO:
Firing Order:
1-3-4-2
Cylinders:
.....(back)
1....2....3.....4
.....(front)
Distributor:
......(back)
......1.....3
(+)............(+)-screws
......2.....4
......(front)
Rotation: Clockwise.

For the 3.0L V6:
Firing Order:
1-2-3-4-5-6
Cylinders:
....(back)
1......3......5
2......4......6
.....(front)
Distributor:
.....(back)
(+).2...1
3...........6
.....4...5..(+)-screws
.....(front)
Rotation: Counterclockwise

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.Com!

check for broken timing belt

if your engine is turning over faster than usual, it sounds like your timing belt is broke

dont know what motor you have so here's all the possible engines

2.5L SOHC
15 .... Vechicle speed distance sensor
22 .... Coolant Temperture sensor ciruit
24 .... Throttle Position Sensor
37 .... Part Throttle unlock Solonoid Circuit
51 .... Oxygen feedback system stuck at lean position

2.5L SOHC Turbo
15 ... Vehicle Speed Sensor
22 ... Engine Coolant Temperture Sensor
24 ... Throttle Position Sensor
37 ... Baro Read Solonoid
51 .... Oxygen Feedback System

3.0L SOHC
15 .... Vehicle Speed Sensor
22 .... Coolant Temperture Sensor Circuit
24 .... Throttle Position Sensor
37 .... Part Throttle unlock Solonoid
51 .... Lean Condition is indicated

The thermal switch which controls the cooling fan, normally via a relay, is often located on the lower radiator tank. There are one- and two wire types.
The relay itself is most often installed with others in a central fuse box. For economy, there may be several relays of the same type which makes swapping for test purposes possible.

Firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6
Go to link for cylinder layout picture
http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-10422.htm

Air in the cooling system likely

It is definately your starter that has problem.

It's against the firewall under the drivers side of the dash. You'll need to remove the fuse panel and other parts to reach it. Disconnect the battery first in case you were to short something out.  f you're blower motor isn't working, before replacing, check for power through the system by checking for continuity or voltage with a multimeter. The AC/Heating system gets it's own power through the ignition switch seperately from other accessories and only passes power in the RUN position, so check for power there first. If you don't have power at the ignition switch, check the fusible link between the battery and firewall (There's a whole group of them about a foot away from the firewall on the left side). I found out that was the problem with my ventilation system after I'd already torn apart the dash.
If you have to replace the blower motor (make sure it is the blower motor first, because it's not a fun project), you'll have to remove the glovebox. You'll then have to remove the fan enclosure by removing several bolts. You'll probably have to replace the gasket as well, as the one in my car fell apart once the enclosure was removed. You'll then have to remove the fan by decompressing a spring clip and removing from the center spindle. You can then remove the fan. In my car, there wasn't a connector at the blower motor, so you'd have to desolder or cut the wires. If you do cut the wires, you'll have to resolder the new blower motor in and put heatshrink over the solder joints (adhesive preferably), as I don't believe it is advised to use crimps due to the amount of current. Ultimately there'll be soldering involved, most likely in a cramped space, so be careful of solder drips. If the fusible link is blown, check the connection at the ignition switch. Mine melted pretty severely, which is probably what blew the fusible link. If you change the fusible link, put a fuse holder in it's place. If you have to replace the ignition switch connector as well, solder everything... no crimps. 

Taken from Haynes repair manual. I used these instructions myself to replace starter motor on my 1989 Dodge Spirit after nearly going berserk at three attempts to remove it without wanting to look it up in book.
1)Detach the negative battery terminal. 2) Working from above the engine, remove upper mounting bolt and nut to starter. (Access is accomplished this way: stand on driver-side fender and look down at brake fluid reservoir. Just below and beyond the brake reservoir you will see a vent hose. Disconnect hose & remove. Now you will see the starter motor from above view. You will be able to see a mounting bolt and a nut connecting starter to engine just above the starter (facing brake reservoir). Remove (1) bolt & (1) nut first, then raise vehicle and suport on jackstands. Then go underneath the vehicle and remove the remaining lower mounting bolt (1) on the starter. Label wires then detach them from starter. Now you can remove the starter. If you find it a tight squeeze, you may want to remove or swing the transaxle on that side for additional access, although that is not mentioned in manual (but I did it). It just gives you more room, but does not seem absolutely necessary. 3) Installation is reverse of removal.
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look in between the engine and the trans. they are always mounted there, but either in the front or the back of the motor.