Top 20 1992 Ford Ranger Questions & Answers

You state" You mentioned 2 flashers ". Who mentioned it? Fixya is a website of hundreds of non paid Experts answering questions because there want to. If is called 'peer to peer help'.Making a follow-up to an old post as a NEW post doesn't work here. What you wrote has no context to whatever answer you are referring. Please never make new questions in historically old posts as that will not give you an answer.Make a new post;'year make model' as first 3 words as I have edited your question above, years in full (1992, not 92) and always with maker name. That will put you in the right category as decided by the website scripts. I did that for you as well :>) There are over 10,000 categories to choose from. Then state clearly what the problem is and what you are trying to do, and what you may have tried. country of origin is also useful.Thanks, it sound like something that our Expert @Larry Ng will know the answer to...

Question edited for clarity and order 'make model 'stuff'. Question moved to model category. Presumably, you disconnected the battery when you replaced the fuel pump? Did you reset the anti-theft immobilizer and security system? https://www.google.com/search?q=1992+ford+ranger+reset+security+system ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to sub category. All in this link. Lots of images on the images tab. https://www.google.com/search?q=1992+ford+ranger+2.3+liter+firing+order ..

USA car? i'd say yes, use a flash light, (a usa named tool)NO job told at all,Dizzy pulledor pan off pump pull land back, we not guess the job at hand.the Oil Pump Intermediate Shaft For 86-92 Ford Ranger Bronco II 2.9L is super long, and must be indexed firsthere is the SM (service man) warningsDo not force the oil pump if it does not seat readily. The oil pump driveshaft may be misaligned with the distributor or shaft assembly. If the pump is tightened down with the driveshaft misaligned, damage to the pump could occur. To align, rotate the intermediate driveshaft into a new position.and this step 9 warning too. Dizzy planting pagesIf the vane and vane switch stator cannot be aligned by rotating the distributor in the cylinder block, remove the distributor enough to just disengage the distributor gear from the camshaft gear. Rotate the rotor enough to engage the distributor gear on another tooth of the camshaft gear. Repeat Step 9 if necessary.as you can see the 2.9L is tricky to the max. a service manual is always best to read first .seen here https://eautorepair.net/app/CustomerInfo.asp?VID=&Count=Y

It doesn't have one

VIN is usually repeated on a riveted engine compartment identification plate and on the main structural members of the car, eg., floorpan and frame...

First spray out the throttle body / next check all vacuum hoses for cracks/ take out your spark plugs and inspect them and check the gap between the firing pin and the electrode//////this is where I think your problem is when the gap is to far out of specs when the engine gets hot enough the gap will spread further apart and now it can not fire to burn the air/fuel mixture then once it cools off a little bit it can fire again///after regap or plug change inspect your plug wires and your cap and rotor the same can happen with the cap and rotor to much air gap at higher rpms the spark is lost //////I really feel that a complete ignition tune up should be done here and your problem will be gone do you remember how long ago/ miles from the last tune up probably not so (1)plugs (2)wires (3)distributor cap and rotor (4)fuel filter (5)Berryman fuel injection spray for the throttle body and (6) berrymans fuel system cleaner for the tank 2 cans here this is the best stuff on the market and walmart is the cheapest around $3.50 a can(7)change fuel to a name brand fuel ex. BP shell mobile Exxon you got the picture here and use premium for this fill up and take your truck on the highway for about 20 miles or so at 55mph or higher where permitted so you can clean out the combustion chambers in the cylinders because your fuel burning was reduced by poor spark build up will happen as carbon on the valves ///the higher octane fuel will give you a slower more stable burn and the 2 cans will give a much hotter blue flame to help clean out and burn off dirt and carbon from the cylinders also the better fuel has detergents in it to keep things clean your truck has high mileage and needs to be cared for the right way and if you can use electrical contact cleaner on all your connections for your sensors and battery connections after doing all above your gas peddle will become much firmer and less fuel consumption and more mpg's will be the result of your ignition and electrical tune up and write down your mileage for your records and follow service intervals this is important as is the use of higher octane name brand fuel I'm a taxi mechanic in nyc with 50+ years of experience and I have some cars on the road with 400,000 + miles on them as well as my own so this is a real answer from a real mechanic ok and change your oil and filter unburnt fuel goes past worn rings and breaks down your oil viscosity smell your oil you'll get a gas odor from it so please follow my instructions it's important to keep your girl of the hook and out of the junk yard later! Post back to me if problems persist but I doubt it good luck stephen and have fun learning

What engine?

In a pinch, yes you can use a 20amp in place of a 10amp as long as you have repaired what blew the 10amp. It needs to be changed to the correct 10amp ASAP. What happens is the next time, the 20 becomes a 30, becomes a 40 becomes a ... and the wiring harness burns up.

Yes remove for sure

Not sure about the tach, but the link should give you ideas to check on. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Check to see of the tank is vented properly.

The problem is most likely not in the transmission. Since it is doing the same thing with both of them. I would start with checking speed sensor circuit. The speed sensor send signal to the processor and the processor in turn controls shift point etc. You need a really good scanner and monitor PIDS. Watch what the speed sensor is reading and look at fuel trim to make sure the vehicle is seeing what the vehicle is really doing. Your OBD is very primitive compared to todays OBDII, which holds and keeps information. Therefore you have to monitor while driving and situation happens. If you can, try a KNOWN GOOD PCM first. However, don't go out and buy a new one without verifying that it is the PCM

No fault checking of almost anything, especially an ignition system, can be done without checking circuits and coils with a test lamp and a good ohm meter. It is also a big help to have a circuit diagram - making it easier to know what should be happening. Back to basics and systematic checking is the way forward...

Clean the idle air control valve or replace it and check the readings on your engine coolant temp sensor. Wrong temp reading really screw up the air / fuel mixtures

Unfortunately you have to pry off old oil pans with a narrow blade or screwdriver tip. The gasket WILL be destroyed in the process so make sure you have a new one. Heating the pan a bit will help as well as it softens the seal and makes the oil runnier. As a side note, never re-use an oil or head gasket even if it still looks good, I made that mistake once, not good is an understatement. Grim

Check the reverse switch

Key it on and off 3 or 4 times. If it starts right up, the check ball is stuck, letting the fuel drain back to the tank. Like Tom said, fuel pump. If it were mine I would live with it till the pump started acting up.

I don't know if your the person I was talking to, but, click on the comment link to reply.

The heavy cable goes to the big nut and the push on wire goes to the spade or push on terminal.