Top 20 1994 Ford Bronco Questions & Answers

You will have to start by making sure you have a good connection on the battery. And sometimes it is not just the post and battery terminal. It can be where the cable connects to the terminal as well. Clean them all up good and see if you still have the same problem

you can try to polish it out but if to far gone will need to repaint

could be I would check the sump oil level first

I use a plastic tool to release the fuel line. I have ground it down to fit between the line and the filter. You can buy the disconnect set from any NAPA parts store in the plastic version. I'm guessing you have the metal tool

First check to see if your timing belt or chain is still there, it could have broken. If it's still on there then see if your battery has a good charge or if its low you may need to replace the alternator.

Remover the center backing and manually Relese the the locks If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/scott_87482045335a4757

This is located under the hood, close to the battery on the fender, passinger side. Look at the Positive cable from the battery and follow it to the relay.

find top dead center on cylinder 1 then insert the distributor and point the rotor to number 1 and that will be close enough to get it to run. If it backfires you may need to pull the distributor and rotate it 180% as you may have found tdc on exaust stroke.

How do you know its not the computer ? the computer is what provides the ground for the injectors.

Should be on the inner fender near the battery.

Where is the whistling noise coming from? You are driving a classic, so it could be a vacuum hose, a partially blocked radiator hose, a bad window seal, an exhaust leak...we need more information to give an educated guess.

replacement part has screws with it.

check fuel pump pressure even if your getting fuel may not be enough pressure to get going at higher rpms volume is not the same as pressure you can get a fuel pressure test kit at any auto parts store

The spark problem is first because the computer uses the same signals to control injection Ford used two types of ignition systems #1 closed bowl this has the control module mounted on a heat sink next to the drivers hood hinge and 6 wires coming out of distributor or thick film where the module is mounted on distributor on both systems need to test the pick up coil with a logic probe for cycling voltage ok replace module if not ok replace pick-up coil.

it appears that the pump pressure relief valve is stuck and is not sealing off the oil system to allow pressure to build up at idle. It may be necessary to remove the oil pump and pressure relief valve for checks /repairs.

check Mazda tail gates as Ford and Mazda share most body parts . Normally it will be the same year as your vehicle but sometimes a year earlier or later depending on when the production run started and finished.

Check your wires to the starter and around the manifold they short easily if they rub on any surfaces

The jack is located in the engine compartment on top of the wheel well.