Top 20 1994 Ford Bronco - Page 3 Questions & Answers

The fuel injectors receive their power from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Power Relay which is located in the Engine Compartment Fuse Box. This circuit is protected by Fuse "I" (20 Amp), also located in the Engine Compartment Fuse Box. If you blew a fuse, this would be the one.
The fuel pump, however, is a totally different circuit. (although it is controlled by the PCM which will not work if the fuse above is blown) The fuel pump gets its power from the fuel pump relay which is protected by Fuse "O" (20 Amp) in the Engine Compartment Relay Box.

1994 ford Bronco was starting and running fine. My daughter drove it 3 miles to school that morning then a few hours later she went to start it and it would'nt start. The door chime and all the dome lights, lights on dash lite up as normal and when you turned the key to (start) position you could hear the fuel pump then it just would click and not turn over and start. Jumped the battery that didn't work. Had it towed home and tried a few more times that night to get it to start but no luck. Next afternoon went to check it out again and for the heck of it thought id try starting it. Would'nt ya know it..It STARTED right up? After checking Battery and solenoid..etc I thought it was the starter but now im not sure.

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There's just a pin that holds the shifter arm in place. You can remove the pin from the top under the rubber boot and pick up a used shifter arm from just about any scrap or recycling yard. I've already sold 5 or 6 this year for 25 dollars. It takes about 5 minutes, and comes with a good OD button. To be quite honest you could put a clip on two of the exposed wires in the same amount of time it'd take to replace it.

the cover of the relay box normaly has the slots labled for you or you can look it up in your owners manuel

In the fuse panel, under the lower left hand side of the instrument panel. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2496c4f07ad24453

I suspect that you have rust/particles in your gas tank that is being sucked up by your fuel pump and collecting in the fuel filter, blocking fuel flow. When the vehicle is at low RPMs, the rust particles settle to the bottom of the filter, allowing some fuel to pass. When you accelerate, the fuel flow jams the particles against the outlet, and blocks fuel flow. Change the fuel filter again.

I suspect that the alcohol laced fuel that is mandated now is the problem as alcohol is highly hydroscopic and releases water into the fuel sitting in the tank (metal)and causes rust. you may have to devise a method to **** all of the fuel out of your tank, and hope that all of the gunk comes with it.

it sounds like u are getting power [the clicking is the relay]ur next step would be to go under the truck and find the moter on the transfer case .have someone engage the 4x4 and listen for the moter working.if not uplug the harness and see if u have power there when ingage or disen gage the 4x4 .if u do then it is most likely the moter or the spline on the moter witch then u have to remove,to check

did u change the ignition on the distributer?

teeth okay on ring gear has to be your starter

manual or auto hubs?how do u now it is not engaging?.u can lift the front end up in 4 wheel make sure hubs r engaged .rotate the tire by hand ,and check to see if the drive shaft is turning [from the wheel to the front diff] u most likely have a bad locking hub.if it is not turning ur front tire is not locked up

Well if you did not have this problem before replacing your power stering pump, then your power stering pulley is not press all the way in, this is a very common failure from the person replacing the pulley, seen this many many times, and like you sad your belt pays the price, your pulley has to be flush with the p/s shaft period, no recess, remember the bolt, washer,nut, that come with the pump? you still may get them in place to press that pulley(replace washer for a thicker or double up so doesnot bent)
Good luck

Check for a vacuum leak. Otherwise i know the iac motors gum up on those a lot. it's not recommended to clean the iac's but i have done it before.

ciuld be a blown globe. You will have to remove the dash to check

axle bearings will need to be removed with a slide hammer. pinion races can be remove with a long punch and hammer.

check u joints

this can be due to a vacuum leak check your vacuum lines or it may be an intake manifold leak.

Look for a retaining clip under the grease boot. It must be removed if that is the style you are working with.

IF YOU CAN HEAR THE WINDOW MOTOR CLICKING WHEN YOU TRY TO CLOSE IT, IT'S PROBABLY THE PLASTIC GEARS (COMMON PROBLEM) I PICKED ONE UP FOR $25. IF THERE OS NO NOISE WHEN YOU HIT THE SWITCH IT IS EITHER A SHORT OR THE MOTOR ITSELF $90. IT'S THE SAME MOTOR AS YOU FRONT DOOR WINDOWS.

If you have an amp meter, you can put it in series with either
battery cable, and start pulling fuses until you get what is
creating the current draw,when the vehicle is shut off and
all things time out.

There is no common thing
You need an understanding of basic electrical

A wiring diagram is almost a must for any electrical issues