Ford PATS doesn't have a reset like GM. First try a different key and disconnect all electronic devices in the car like phone charger, GPS, dash cam, etc. If that doesn't work, you'll have to get the trouble codes read
It's in the under hood fuse box . Free diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb/ Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine ., Under system click on electrical distribution , then under subsystem click junction block . Click the search button then the blue link . At the bottom of the first diagram you'll see the fuel pump relay location . Just in case you are unaware of the electronics involved in the fuel pump electrical circuit for this vehicle , it also has a fuel pump driver module .
Electronic returnless fuel system . Suggest you watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rwve6lXriO4&t=292s
You are in luck! You can program a 2006 Ford Five Hundred key fob yourself and don't need to go to a dealer or professional. The steps are pretty easy, it's the timing of the steps that you have to pay attention to. You most likely will not get the programming correct on the first try, keep at it, you will get it.
Here are the key fob programming instructions for a 2006 Ford Five Hundred:
*** THERE ARE 2 POSSIBLE PROGRAMMING PROCEDURES. ***Procedure #1Note: Obtain all remote transmitters for this vehicle.
Note: Do not depress the brake pedal during procedure.
Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 10 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.)
Within 20 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 4.
Within 20 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 3. For all other remotes.
Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.
Procedure #2Note: Obtain all remote transmitters for this vehicle.1Fasten seat belts and close all doors.
Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 4 times within 6 seconds, with the 4th time ending in RUN. (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.)
Turn ignition to OFF. Acoustic signal will sound and system warning lamp will illuminate to confirm programming mode.
Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on the first keyless remote. Wait for acoustic sound and warning lamp to flash (confirming programming) then release button on remote. Wait 2 seconds but within 10 seconds repeat step 4. For all other remotes. If you only have one remote then continue to step 5.
Turn ignition to Crank or wait 10 seconds to end programming mode.
It is true some climates are unkind to rubber components but in fairness rubber components arrive in a wide variety of qualities and differing materials and mostly you don't know what you have until it begins to go wrong.
Being an organic product (rubber tends to have more in common with oil and chemistry these days than with rubber trees) it can be adversely affected by sustained high temperatures, ultraviolet radiation and by absorbing substances from the immediate environment.
I doubt Armour All will be any help and there is the added problem of accessibility in order to treat the rubber and rubbery components of your car - of which there are many.
In most districts there is to be found at least one general industrial supplier that supplies things like bearings, hydraulic components, driveline systems and components and a host of specialised oils, greases and chemicals to industry and construction. They also make and repair things connected to those industries and many other people. Such businesses are invaluable in any community and are a mine of information.
The cost of some of the rubber components they supply would make your $200 engine mount seem positively paltry. If a treatment exists to make rubber components last longer they will know about it and I am certain they would be happy to tell you about it.
maybe a recycle yard
as far as replaceement there all the same
jackup the engine to remove pressure remove one bolt @ a time
if your talking about the part i think your talking about
it has two bolts holding it to two black brackets
one on the car itself and one on the engine
these are fairly easy to change just need some patients and i good floor jack and maybe a buddy for support
It is under the throttle body area and it is hard to get to unless you are doing the plugs and have it out of the way. My Ford dealer quoted $166 to change the plugs P&L. I did them myself. Look up your PVC valve on rockauto.com to see what it looks like.
1. Remove the 4 transaxle roll restrictor brace bolts.
o To install, clean the bolts using a wire brush, apply new threadlocker to the threads and tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft) .
2. Remove the bolt and the transaxle roll restrictor brace.
o To install, clean the bolts using a wire brush, apply new threadlocker to the threads and tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft) .
3. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve tube from the PCV valve.
4. If equipped, disconnect the PCV valve electrical connector.
5. CAUTION: A new PCV valve must be installed if removed from the cam cover. Damage will occur to the locking mechanism on the PCV valve. Rotate the PCV valve counterclockwise to remove from the valve cover.
6. To install, reverse the removal procedure