20 Most Recent 2006 Ford Five Hundred - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Removal and Installation

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.

1. Disconnect the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.

1. Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner counterclockwise and position the accessory drive belt aside.

1. Remove the 8 pin-type retainers and the right lower splash shield.

1. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor and release the 2 wiring harness locators from the generator splash shield.

1. Remove the lower generator boot pin-type retainer, fold the boot upward and disconnect the generator electrical connector.

1. With the generator boot folded upward, position the protective cover aside and remove the generator B+ nut and terminal.
   • To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

1. NOTE: The 3 generator studs and nuts may be replaced with 3 bolts (W709986-S437) to ease the installation of the generator.
   Remove the 3 generator nuts and stud bolts.
   • To install, tighten the generator stud bolts to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
   • To install, tighten the new generator bolts or generator nuts to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft).

1. Remove the generator shield from the generator.

1. Remove the generator.

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

All you need to replace that motor mount is a half decent socket set. The bottom mounts are holding up the engine and transmission. Good luck!

I didn't look up you stats on your Ford as you did not provide an engine size, but for precise location, you can look it up at autozone in their repair guides. Just register, login and "find the info."

i would try a speed sensor that would be the signal for both speedo and odonometer

I would check battery voltage with a meter when the lights are flashing to check alternator output. Might be a ground problem.

I have the same car and I had the same problem when I changed my brakes. The rear caliper piston twists in; you need a special tool that has a plate, a threaded rod with a T handle, a nut (sleeve style) and a disk adapter with two pins that mate with the slots on your caliper. I rented mine from autozone, reqd a 55 dollar deposit but you get that back when you return the tool. Once you place the tool in the calipers you have to turn the t handle counterclockwise (for the rear passenger caliper) while twisting the nut in the same direction (I know this sounds crazy but trust me). This will compress the piston.

If the caliper does not twist in (because you may have turned it clockwise like I did) you need to restart the threads. I did this by pulling off the old pads and re-attaching the calipers. I had to do this because the gap was too small to place the tool in the caliper after I turned it clockwise and removed the tool. I hit the brake pedal which compressed the piston against the rotor. A ford tech told me to remove the entire assy and pound the caliper piston with a hammer, this may be the proper way to do it but I didn’t want to bother. On the driver’s side you have to turn the t handle clockwise while turning the nut counterclockwise. You should only have to turn the T handle about 10 to 15 times to seat the piston, if you are turning the tool more that that and not seeing any results you need to restart the threads. Good luck and I hope this helps.

You have some bad COP Ignition CoilsNot necessarily the ones the codes point toIf you have a professional mechanic use a scan toolin Generic Mode $06 you may see from the data whichones are badSometimes even that won't help youUnless you start walking one new coil at a time& replace the old one if that doesn't cure the misfireuntill you get all the bad ones,then the scanner is thebetter choiceAfter that you need an oscilloscope or just try a new coilas before in every cylinderI personnally do not replace all of them,you fix the problem& learn nothing along the way