20 Most Recent 1995 Dodge Ram 2500 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

You can try this website for a diagram www.doocu.com

I would have the alternator output checked as sometimes a rebuilt alternator can be just as bad as the old one. Also have the battery checked as it may be bad and won't take a charge. Lastly make sure both battery cables are good, clean and snug at both connections. You can check the cables with an ohm meter.

If you live in an area where it is very cold as I do in the winter try putting some carboard between the rad. and the grill. This contains the heat lost. Just make sure you remave it when it gets warmer.

yes it could be an injector, also check the fuel filter. when we see white smoke from a Cummings it is al-wise a lack of fuel, black smoke is to much fuel, white smoke is a lack of fuel, also there is a fuel enrichment diaphragm in the injection pump. it is located on the back of the governor housing ( there will be a line going from the intake to the governor housing cover ) remove this cover and check to see if there a hole in the diaphragm if there is replace it, here at work ,all we run are Cummings 4b's which is a 4cylinder version of your 6 cylinder and we replace 5 or 6 of these diaphragms a year and when they go bad the trucks smoke white and have no power. you also might want to check the injection pump housing pressure it should not be any higher then the fuel transfer pump pressure if it is you will need to replace the injection pump. just to let you know how common this is we keep 2 pumps in stock at all times hardly a week goes by that someone in one of our depo's is not changing a pump......good luck let me know if there is any thing else i can do for you.....THANKS for using FixYa

fuel pressure regulator

fuel pump is located inside gas tank...u will have to drop tank inorder to fix

Sound like a problem with the starter or discharged battery.

if it just clicks when trying to start. then most likely its the starter solinoid. the solinoid is what pushes gear out to meet flywheel when starting. its up to you, you can replace starter or just the solinoid. but it would be in your best interest to change whole starter. then you know it will be ok. have a good day !!

did you check the lights themselvs you might have to run a hot wire from your fuse box to the lights themselvs

it could be your cluster control next time it does it see if pulling it makes a difference the points burn out inside and it will sooner or later just stop working all together

so you have a mechanical p7100 injection pump. That probably doesnt need anything done to it, provided the rest of your driving experience is pretty normal. You can adjust the timing, but that probably won't dramatically change your power.
If you dont have much power at speeds, the turbo, wastegate, or even EGR valve could be to blame.
Is the truck smoking a lot? What color? Higher EGT?

hi there i had the same problem, all it was was the fuse under the hood look to see which one is no good

Their is moisture in the wiring system.........Spray all with ignition spray and it should remove the moisture.......Hope this helps.

FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle
   
   
3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware
   
   
5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
   
8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
   
10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
    
13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50-80 ft. lbs. (68-108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
14. Assemble the hub parts.
15. Install the caliper.
16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive

1. Remove the wheel cover.
2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle
   
   
3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship
   
   
5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat
    
    
16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).

have your battery load tested and have your alternator output tested

CAM POSITION SENCOR ON TOP OF TRANSMISSION :)

there are four bolts in the back of the spindle i think they are 12 point 13mm bolts take them out and it should come off with a few smacks

remove the washer jug and it should pop right out of the jug

Hi, well when lower or upper ball joints go bad your tires will wear more tread on the inside edge of the tire and you might hear a pop or clunk when turning a corner.... but from what your describing it sounds like #1rst. the shake,since its only shaking when you brake and not all the time, tells me your brake rotors are warped and need turned( brake shop can do ) #2. if the truck only pulls right when you brake.then thats going to be in the brakes also... I would have your rotors turned and put new brake pads on it and that should fix your problem....yz-maniac.