1987 Dodge Shadow - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

SOUNDS LIKE YOUR VALVES ARE A LITTLE LOUD

YOU WILL NEED TO REPLACE THE WINDOW REGULATOR ASWEMBLY TO FIX THIS PROBLEM..

this sounds like you may have a bad tire, i would also have the alignment done and maybe balance all the tires if this has not been done in a while but the problem you list is more like a bad tire, good luck, hope this is helpful.

The cost can very depending on what store.I would call every store and you should be able to purchase this particular one for about 25 to 45 dollars

The power loss light goes on as a result of the alternator being bad.
Are you getting 'lifetime' guaranteed rebuilt alternators to replace the old ones?
If not, then the quality of the parts may not be good enough to run in your application.

Are the connections clean and shiny when removed?

The specification calls for 900 rpms for the idle speed when warm for the 1987 Dodge Shadow.

One can adjust this with a screw on the carburetor, if it has one.

If it's fuel injected the idle speed is automatically controlled.

Fast Idle Speed HOLLEY 5220/6520 Fig. 5: Turn the adjusting screw with a screwdriver to raise or lower the fast idle speed — make sure that the adjusting screw is resting against the lowest speed step
NOTE: This procedure is performed while the carburetor is installed on the engine.

1. On 1981–82 cars, disengage the two-way electrical connector at the carburetor (red and tan wires).
2. On all years, disconnect the jumper wire at the radiator fan and install a jumper wire so that the fan runs continuously.
3. On 1983–86 models, pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover and allow it to draw underhood air.
4. Disengage the oxygen sensor system connector located on the left fender shield near the shock tower.
5. Ground the carburetor switch with a jumper wire.
6. Open the throttle slightly and place the adjustment screw on the slowest speed step of the fast idle cam.
7. With the choke fully open, adjust the fast idle speed to comply with the value indicated on the underhood sticker.
8. Return the vehicle to curb idle, then reposition the adjusting screw on the slowest speed step of the fast idle cam to verify fast idle speed. Re-adjust as necessary.
9. Turn the engine OFF, remove the jumper wire and reconnect the fan.
10. Reinstall the PCV valve and remove the tachometer. On 1983–86 models, reattach the oxygen sensor system connector, and remove the jumper wire from the carburetor.

Fast Idle Opening MIKUNI

1. Before adjustment, leave the carburetor alone for approximately one hour at 73°F (23°C).
2. Adjust the fast idle opening by turning the fast idle adjusting screw to the following specified values (drill diameter):
   • 2.6L engines equipped with manual transaxles — 0.028 in.
   • 2.6L engines equipped with automatic transaxles — 0.031 in.

Choke Valve Setting MIKUNI Fig. 6: After tightening the choke cover lockscrews, cut the heads off of lockscrews A (total of 3 screws) and stake the heads of lockscrews B (total of 2 screws) with a blunt punch
NOTE: This procedure need only be performed if the carburetor is disassembled.

1. Fit the strangler spring to the choke lever.
2. Assemble the choke valve, aligning the inscribed line or black painted line on the tooth of the choke pinion with the inscribed line on the cam lever.
3. Temporarily tighten the new lockscrews.
4. Set the choke valve by moving the pinion arm up or down, align a punched mark on the float chamber cover at the center of the three inscribed lines, and secure the pinion arm with the lockscrews.
5. Install the choke cover and tighten the lockscrews.
6. Cut off the heads off of lockscrews A.
7. Stake the heads of lockscrews B using a blunt punch.

Vacuum Kick HOLLEY 5220/6520 NOTE: This procedure is performed while the carburetor is installed on the engine. If the vacuum kick is adjusted to open the choke too far, the engine may stall or idle very roughly just after cold start. If it is adjusted so that the choke does not open enough, there may be black smoke in the exhaust. NOTE: To perform this procedure, you will need a hand held vacuum pump capable of producing at least 15 in. Hg (50.6 kPa) of vacuum. The vacuum kick diaphragm may be damaged if you attempt to retract it manually. You will also need a drill or dowel which has a diameter equivalent to the specification for Vacuum Kick in the Carburetor Specifications Chart.

1. Remove the air cleaner. Open the throttle, close the choke and hold it in the closed position, and then release the throttle to trap the fast idle cam in the choke-closed position.
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the choke vacuum kick diaphragm. Connect a vacuum pump and apply 15 in. Hg (50.6 kPa) or more of vacuum.
3. Gently move the choke blade toward the closed position just until play is eliminated from the vacuum kick linkage (so that the vacuum kick is determining choke blade position).
4. Insert the drill or dowel into the gap between the upper edge of the choke blade and the air horn wall, toward the center of the gap. The dowel or drill should just fit into the gap. If necessary, rotate the Allen head screw in the center of the diaphragm housing to create the proper gap and then recheck with the measuring device.
5. Restore all vacuum connections and reinstall the air cleaner.

It sounds like the coil

Fouled spark plug? Bad wire? Rotor / cap new? Check those things out, wear a thick rubber glove, take the wire off the non working plug, put a screwdriver next to the wire (while car is running) and see if a spark is made. If it is, your plug is bad. If no spark, replace wires. Still no spark? Change your rotor and cap. Still no spark? Ignition module. Following those steps will save you some green.

This help? click on link below. When you get there and want bigger pictures, click on them.


http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528018dabb

It should be located on the front of the transmission near the pan. It's a 3-prong switch.

brian gets hot

Check for a bad wheel bearing or shaft. and not sure if you have band brakes or pads on rear but whatever it is check to make sure drum or rotor is not grooved up.

There is no headlight relay.

If the nut is staked, unstake it with a screwdriver and use a breaker bar, or a ratchet with a pipe on the end to increase your leverage.

Most water pumps have a weep hole that leaks when the pump seal is broken. Usually indicates the water pump needs replaced.

chiltons guide

it sounds like it needs a new thermostat, they run under $10.

Could be a problem with the temperature sensor. Id try and replace that next.

Depending on what year the car is, the filter should be under the floor in the fuel line.

It is a fused circuit, so check the fuse first. The injector should have a hot wire to it when the key is on. Ground a test light and check for the hot wire with key on. If you have that, then move the test light lead to the positive post of the battery, and probe the ground wire terminal of the injector harness-now have someone crank the car over and check for a blinking light. If the light is blinking when cranking, the ground circuit is good. See? The injector always has power to it with key on. When the computer grounds the injector circuit for a split second, power is passed across the injector solenoid terminals causing it to pulse.