20 Most Recent 1988 Dodge Aries Questions & Answers

The codes can be pulled from this car by turning the key to off on off on off on then on the forth time leave the key in the on position and observe the check engine light it will blink in two number codes for example 3 blinks then a pause and 2 more blinks would mean code #32. Here is a link to the codes table:

http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/95_25sfi.shtml

These codes for a 95 2.5 should be the same for your 88.

Sincerely,

JC

There's probably a group of solenoids around the engine bay somewhere, and these are part of it. I believe the speed control vacuum solenoid is for the cruise control system, and the vent solenoid I think would be for the evaporative emissions system-what keeps your gas vapors from the tank escaping to air- but traps them in a charcoal canister full of charcoal. The canister is probably under the hood too. Those solenoids act as on-off switches for controlling vacuum to other parts. You need to look at the wiring for them is what the code is saying. The code may or may not be related to your hard starting or no start conditions. Sounds pretty bad. Check for a major air or vacuum leak around the vacuum lines and the intake manifold. After that, probably back to basics-gas or spark may be giving you a problem. Monitor the fuel pressure, engine off and engine running. Check for a strong blue spark on all cylinders.

It is inside the distributor, it is called a distributor stator/pickup coil in older cars.

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

if it is a carby model the check the fast idle cam for the auto choke or adjust the choke setting

hope this helps

I always start in the middle and X my way to the sides

BY removing the head you will by necessity have to take the belt off. I suggest that you take particular care to place the crank on TDC and have all the timing marks lined up before you pull off the head. That way if you do not turn the crank and before replacing the head have the cam marks back in the same place then there will be little problem in keeping the timing right. Check your manual and it may have an hydraulic tensioner in which case you will have to physically release the tensioner to fit the belt back on. If the engine has done time then consider replacing the belt as it may be close to needing replacement anyway sand you will be in the process for the head

If it is possible just remove any bolts that mount the ac compressor to the head. If there are bolts lower down that mount into the block it may be advisable to remove them as well as this will make the job of replacing the head a lot easier. There is no need to enter the ac system as it will move out of the way due to the rubber hoses in the system.

The vss is located on the outside of the trans housing. Usually towards the axles, white plu

Instructions1 Locate the fuel filter on your carbureted engine by first raising and supporting the hood. Both carbureted and fuel injected fuel filters look the same. The filter resembles a metal canister that measures 5 to 6 inches. The fuel filter in the carbureted Ram 50 sits on the driver's side of the engine, back against the firewall. The filter's fuel lines mount on the bottom and top of it. The bottom line is held in place by a nut. The top line mounts to the filter with a banjo-bolt. (You can remove the fuel filter with a socket wrench and an adjustable wrench. Place a shop towel under the filter to soak up any fuel that may spill.)2 Locate the fuel-injected engine's fuel filter by first applying the Ram 50's emergency brake. Raise the truck forward of the rear driver's-side tire with a hydraulic jack. Set a jack stand 3 inches from the hydraulic jack beneath the frame rail.3 Slide under the truck near the gas tank. Right where the frame rail ends, just in front of the gas tank, you should see the fuel filter. It's the same size and shape of the carbureted fuel filter. The one difference is both of the fuel lines mount on top of the fuel injected filter. (To remove this fuel filter, loosen the hose clamps on the fuel lines with a Phillips screwdriver. Before you pull the hoses off the filter, set a metal catch pan beneath it to allow the fuel in the lines to drip into it.)Thanks

there's a couple of code list,

First read through the procedure and familurize your self with what your going to be doing, you can alter the steps as needed to simplify the procedure for youself. Remove the positive battery terminal to prevent any sparks while your working . Drain or syphon out as much gas as possible.Jack up rear of car, and make sure its stable and safe. (i block it up and give the car a good "wiggle" to make sure its not going to fall no matter what I do under the car. Make sure the chances of it falling is as close to zero as possible. Look at the general locaton of the tank, and pull back any interior carpet and look for an access panel if you wish. (some cars have them, others do not) If no access panel is found, then locate the bolts holding the tank in place, there may be straps that hold the tank, bolts will be in these, loosen a couple turns, but do not remove them just yet. Loosen the clamp holding the filler tube to the tank and seperate if possible. Might not hurt to disconnect the filler tube from the fuel door area. Disconnect all the fuel lines, may just be one or two, if you can't reach some of them you can wait Place a jack under the tank and use something soft as to no poke a hole, scuff, or dent the tank. A piece of plywood works great.with the jack supporting the tank, remove the bolts holding tank up the rest of the way out, and move the straps (if any) back completely out of the way .Lower the tank gently. If you have not removed all the fuel lines yet, now is the time to do so, along with disconnecting the electricrical connectons for your float and fuel pump .after everything is disconnected, you can lower the tank to the ground and remove it from under the vehicle .On top of tank the pump and float are held in place by a lock ring, using a brass or plastic hammer (sparks are your worst enemy here) tap around the lock ring untill its loose, and lift out the float and fuel pump assembly .Remove the pump from the assembly, usually just clamped on with plastic "zip" ties, or similar, and disconnect pump from the fuel line which here should be a rubber hose. and there also may be a connector for the power, or they may just unplug from the pump .Get your new pump, and start installing it reverse of the way it came out .When pump is in place, all clamps and electrical connections on and ready, lower it back into tank gently, you don't want to bend your float, or unplug your wires here, or you will have to do the procedure all overif you do it wrong .continue working in reverse untill your finished with the last step. Connect your battery and start your car.

check and see if it got fuel and if it doe check fuel pump

Valves with bad adjustment or damaged valves.

Could be bad brake line, master cylinder, empty reservoir, or problem at one or more wheels. First thing to check would be if there is fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. If not, fill with proper fluid and pump the brake pedal to see if you get response. If so, you will have to have the brakes bled to remove any air in the lines. If there is fluid in the reservoir, then the problem is either a bad line or issues at one or more wheels.

Lift sliding doors and pull; or unscrew the hinges on swinging doors. www.lightdeal.co.uk