20 Most Recent 1999 Dodge Ram - Page 7 Questions & Answers

you might have the wrong part or if you do not have the right tranz oil in it will not shift right Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jim_c09d8140f32619a8

This sounds like a torque converter or transmission issue.

You have a head gasket that has blown out. IT is letting coolant into the cylinders and that is what is causing the steam out of the exhaust.

i would say fuel pump. i had a 1996 do the same.

2wd? If you remove the tailshaft you will be removing the whole overdrive assembly. I would try pulling the driveshaft and seal. Then see if you can remove and install a new bushing. It is quit a bit of work to reinstall the overdrive unit.

Here is a quick test you can perform to eliminate or confirm a problem with the TPS, MAP, Crank and Cam Sensors. A bad Crank or Cam sensor can cause a no start. You will need an Ohm meter.
The PCM has 3 connectors. Facing the controller from left to right, they are labeled C3,C2,and C1.
With the ignition off, disconnect C1. Set your meter for 2K ohms. Disconnect C1 and touch the test leads to pin 17 (5v) and pin 4 (sensor ground). (The pins are numbered) The ohm reading should be somewhere between 600 and 700 ohms. If you see less than 600 ohms start unplugging the sensors one at a time while testing. When you achieve 600 - 700 ohms you have found the defective sensor.
If your sensors are good, I would take the advice of rick7544 and swap out the ignition coil.

Hope this helps....

How did you come to the conclusion that the master cylinder is ok? Does the level of brake fluid in the MCyl. rise & fall while pumping the brakes. I feel no fluid is entering the chamber which has the piston. This piston is directly connected with the brake pedal.Have it checked and the oil seal in it too.....sodeep

This could be a stuck valve in the transmission. Sometimes LUCAS TRANSMISSION treatment will help, but sometimes it is something needing repaired internally.

Have to do some testing to find out why I would assume you need a repair shop If your going to work on your own vehicles, you need reference material, in the form of factory service manuals & in your case, wiring diagrams If you do not have wiring diagrams & a volt meter & basic electricity knowledge ,your not going to even find a problem

I have a 1999 dodge ram with a 5.9liter. Come to a stop and bam no pressure. Replaced sending unit twice. First after market, then mopar. Problem is still there. Replaced pump. Problem was still there. So I talked to tons of dodge mechanics, and this is the real problem. Who ever said that these engines are none for sludge is just reall really stupid. BOTTOM LINE ON THAT FACT. Sludge comes from neglect...
Dodges oil pump makes 8-10 Psi at idle. Always mechanically test that no MATTER what. But the sending unit needs 12-14 psi to read it. So what happens is the engine warms up, and the oil thins. Then you come to a stop, and rpms are low, and your not producing enough psi for the sending unit to read it. So your truck is fine. But if the chime is getting to you. Install a high volume pump. I returned the stock one, and got the high volume pump. I will bet if you change your oil every 3,000 miles you will not see sludge at all. If your dodge has high miles replace valve cover gaskets, becauce the high volume pump may cause the gaskets to leak. Whoever said ther none for sludge just has no love for a dodge, or is a moron mechanic that is stuck in his ways. High volume pump is the fix $85.00 plus pan gasket. If you have a 4x4 you can do it yourself. Drop the starter. Remove torque converter cover. With a 13mm socket with a variety of extentions, and removing a dozen bolts. Do it yourselfer will complete it in 4 hours....

IF ALL MISSES ARE ON SAME BANK CHECK TO SEE IF THE HARNESS ON THAT BANK FOR INJECTORS OR COILS HAS BEEN DAMAGED OR DISCONNECTED. THE 3.7 AND 4.7 ENGINES ALSO WERE PRONE TO THE VALVE SEATS DROPPING. RUN A COMPRESSION TEST

First thing I would do is flush the heater core with a 4 to 1 mixture of water and muratic acid. Put it in there and blow it out both ways 3 or 4 times. Let the acid mix set for about 10 minutes before blowing it out with air. This is a cheap fix, if it works. $7 and your time. Got to say though, it only works about 30% of the time. The other 70% is to remove the heater core. Dodges/Chrysler su(k. To get to the heater core, you have to drop the steering column, and remove the entire dash. Then remove the heater/A/C plenum to remove the heater core. Buy a manual to do this. Way to many hidden screws and bolts. This job costs about $800 at a garage. It takes about 8 hours to do, if you know what your doing.

You will find the spark plug gap and timing specifications listed on the vehicles emission label under the hood, and those specifications are the ones to be used on that vehicle and engine for that year, and no other specifications should ever take precedence over the specifications listed on the vehicles emission control label. Here is the firing order diagram for that engine, let me know if you require any further assistance, and I an curious as to how you got taken for $2,000.

Don\'t mean to sound smart ass but the same way you change any other water pump on a v8 engine. Just takes a little time and patience.

the O2 sensor fuse is located in the fusebo under the hood. its the first 15amp fuse. there is a diagram inside the cover of the fusebo

check your plug wires, your tps sensor, mass air flow sensor, good luck

There are tons of YouTube videos that will show you how to do virtually anything on your car or truck. Start with this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_p2eIpA0tNc

there is a power cut off switch that detects demand for power and it cuts out a/c

more info pls, just gear box, not pump and or lines ? top fluid of and bleed ?

First make sure you have a block in front and back of one of the wheels. And put on the parking brake. Since you don't have park. Go under the truck. on the driver side of your transmission you will find the link that is attached to your gear shift ...With someone in the cab of the truck have them move the shifter. Have the shifter moved toward the park position. While under the truck you will notice where the link stops. There is a nut that holds the link together. Loosen and remove the nut. Mark the link where it stops. Now remove the link and move it towards the rear of the truck . Repalce the nut and hand tighten. Now try to put the truck in park. Should work. If not try adjusting a bit more...Good luck and be patient...It may take a couple of tries...Hope this helps...Have a good day and GOD BLESS !