1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

in front under hood next to radiator

have you checked the coil(s) or ignition module?

Most often the problem is in corroded negatives. Go into the engine compartment and , one at a time with the power off, unscrew a ground wire on the wheel well or the firewall and clean the corrosion off it. Replace each one and tighten carefully. Repeat for every ground you can find. While you are at it, disconnect the battery wires and clean them too. When done, start the engine again (sorry, you might have lost all your radio settings!) and try the switch again. Even the engine may run better.

Have a look at your light switch, take it out and inspect the plastic between the blades... are they melted? Check the harness a the plug and the plug itself... if it also is heat damaged you will want to change the plug end also, go to your wrecker, there are lots of these trucks around so you'll find the right plug/switch combo for your truck, good luck.

Check the light switch itself, diconnect and inspect the wires supplying power at the plug, are they showing signs of distress, like melting or burning? Check the light switch itself at the back, look at the plastic between the blades/prongs, is it melted? If so it's the light switch. Ya can find one at any wrecker, good luck.

my horn fuse keeps blowing and I cant find the horn either!
Can you tell me where you found it?

For What? Year Make and Model? Master Tech Lee Ask Automotive Repair Questions

If it is same engine and same transmission. Otherwise computer controls won't work. For that reason it is not a good idea to go different years: connections, sensor locations, computer parameters, all may differ. Research it carefully. A big project you are thinking of, a lot to consider. Connecting the transmission to the transfer case, getting all the controls in the cab working. Brutal! I wouldn't even consider it, but then I am retired and prize my leisure. Good luck with it. For the amount of time involved, easier to consider a 4WD that just needs an engine or engine and transmission.

The main crank bearing thrust washer (rear bearing) face is worn ,for any number of reasons The only fix is to remove the motor & change the main bearings. How do you know it is not just a failed crank damper pulley, that is causing the misalignment issue,could be both I guess If the crank is walking, then your possibly going to also have transmission torque converter problems or flywheel breakage

what size engine do you have

I've never worked on this sort of vehicle but when I replaced my water pump in another, I had to losen the Alternator to get the belt off since it went to both. You'll need to get a manual on your vehicle from an auto parts store. THere should be directions in that about how to replace your water pump.

You might want to check this site for some tips and solution. Misfire Hesitation Please Help

Hello. I believe there is a process for setting the pintle length on the idle air control motor...you need to look at a shop manual and it will detail how to measure the stickout of the old iac. Then you turn/ adjust/ unscrew the iac pintle. The pintle is the part that sticks out to regulate the idle by opening or closing/blocking the idle air port. If you do not adjust the stickout, the pintle is either out too far or too short, and then the motor cannot effectively regulate the idle. It burns the motor because the computer(ECU/ECM) keeps telling the motor to open or close the port MORE but it's at the end of the travel and burns up due to running constantly. Hope this helps...Good Luck, Brian

Those generally don\'t "break". What usually happens is the get a piece of carbon or a small chunk soot that sticks to the shaft and causes the idle control motor to stick in a partially open position. Take it back off and clean it and re-install it. It will also take the computer a few minutes to reset the engine idle once the new idle motor is installed.

spray a squirt of WD-40 down the plug hole and work the plug a bit each way to allow it to work past the thread . Keep applying the WD -40 until you get it out . Check that you have the correct reach plug as this happens if the thread is too long and the threads become filled with carbon .

Not certain... just a thought... I believe Dodge uses vacuum solenoids to switch air flow from floor to vents and to defrost. Perhaps your loose line is from that solenoid. My '93 would go from defrost to floor when climbing a hill because of loss of vacuum. I hope this helps steer you to a solution.

clearance on pump gears can cause this.depending on milage you may want to replace pump.

- Check for blown fuse in circuit F32. - Check for continuity across the stop lamp switch when it is CLOSED. - If the vehicle is equipped with Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) brakes, circuit F32 connects to the RWAL module. Check bulbs in tail light and wiring in the rear also

Bad multifunction switch

no help hear will try abetter site