20 Most Recent 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Truck - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Hi!

I had the same problem, it was an faulty injector.

Hope it helped,

Regards,

Bogdan

Before you go tearing the HVAC apart, which by the way, will take every tool you own, involves drilling and cutting etc. The thing is, there are many parts, vacuum motors, a blend door and its actuator, and a really complicated electrical vacuum control. It's not just one thing. So, If you haven't already, try this....

It sounds like vacuum is not getting to the vent, heat and A/C controls. Find the vacuum can. It may be under the hood on one of the inner fenders. The "one-way" check valve is usually located in the line and close to the can, make sure it works properly. The valve could be the very thing that's causing the problem. Trace the lines back to the vacuum block at the intake manifold or fire-wall, and also back to where the line goes thru the fire-wall. Check the can for leaks or obvious holes. They used to be just a plain metal can, but it could be a plastic ball. Check the lines as you go, for breaks and rub-thru's. Move the controls thru all settings and listen for vent door movement. Worst case is a bad vacuum motor or air flow position selector switch, and/or a faulty Blend Door Actuator. If you have been driving around with the Temperature knob or control set at the same spot for months, move it from fully cold to fully hot several times and wait for the air temperature to change each time. This will help reset the blend door and vacuum control system.
Also, if the blend door actuator is in fact bad, that IS something you can easily replace. Just have a look at the new one so you'll know what you are looking for. By the way, they ain't cheap!
Hope this helps... Let me know what you find.

the slave cylinder may be going bad or the throw out bearing is going out of it.

It sounds like vacuum is not getting to the vent, heat and A/C controls. Find the vacuum can. It may be under the hood on one of the inner fenders. The "one-way" check valve is usually located in the line and close to the can, make sure it works properly. The valve could be the very thing that's causing the problem. Trace the lines back to the vacuum block at the intake manifold or fire-wall, and also back to where the line goes thru the fire-wall. Check the can for leaks or obvious holes. They used to be just a plain metal can, but it could be a plastic ball. Check the lines as you go, for breaks and rub-thru's. Move the controls thru all settings and listen for vent door movement. Worst case is a bad vacuum motor or air flow position selector switch. If you have been driving around with the Temperature knob or control set at the same spot for months, move it from fully cold to fully hot several times and wait for the air temperature to change each time. This will help reset the blend door and vacuum control system. Hope this helps... Let me know what you find.

The procedure is in your owners manual.

COULD BE FAULTY APPS WHICH IS THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR WHICH DOES SAME TPS SENSOR. COULD HAVE PARTIALLY CLOGGED FUEL FILTER.

There is a spring-type C-clip on the end of the CV housing spline shaft. Disengage the CV joint from the axle housing by using a pry bar between the CV joint and the axle housing. It can be pretty tough to get it to let go. I have found it helpful at times to place the end of a pry bar on the back of the CV housing (as good as I can) and smack it with a BIG hammer. Putting it back in is not nearly as hard.

Check if the fan is working, it could be a weak or bad fan or just a bad fan relay. You may also want to check the freon you have in the system.

The noise coming from your axle is the CV joint making that noise, and it is either that or the front wheel bearing. to isolate whether or not its one or the other you would need ot jack the front end up and "wobble" the wheel (at the 12 O'clock and the 6 O'clock positions) of there is any 'play' in the wheel it is the bearing. Then if there is no 'play' in the bearing then you need to inspect the CV joint, look for torn boots and abnormal end play in the joint itself by grabbing the CV joint and moving it to and from the front differential, also spin the wheel (without the tire on it) and listen for the noise. I'm certain you are getting a CV joint noise but it is best not to guess and check everything properly.

I did it with the truck running one at time to keep the memory to the blend door for the A/C. You must not let the red touch a ground while you do it though.

you have a bulb blown somewhere on truck