20 Most Recent 1992 Ford F150 SuperCab - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Sounds like you have a possible head gasket leak internally. The white gunk is a mixture of oil and coolant. Check your oil dipstick if its creamy in color too then quite possibly. Check the coolant level, if low then I'd definitely suspect it going into the oil. If both oil and coolant look good than it could just be regular blow by condensation. check the air filter for restriction, and the PCV valve for being plugged up.

the speed sensor for instrument cluster is on the trans, at the rear of trans 2 wire plug. check that out

The transmission is stuck on the dowl pins that align it with engine.Time and corrosion tend to marry these components sometimes.The dowl pins are located just abve the bottom side bell housing bolts , one on each side. You can see the back side of the pin .Spray the pins with penetrating oil and let set about 30 minutes the grab the rear of transmission and wiggle it , should pop off.I would suggest you bleed the slave before you install it, these can be tough to get the air out of once installed.I have a procedure in the tips section on how to do this.let me know if I can help.

There is no "reset" for the fuel pump. If the pump is good, the fuel level in the tank will not make it go bad. If the pump is no longer pumping, it probably needs to be replaced.

Try changing the spark plug wires, if that doesnt eradicate the problem, try replacing ignition module & Distributer cap (if applicable). the problem is you are getting moisutre in there whenever its wet outside

sounds like your pilot bearing is going out recomend a clutch set replacement should take care of you

check compression, may be out of time

should be down by the oil pan on passenger side you are talking about o2 sensor 5.0

remove the fuel tank and on top of the fuel tank sender unit is a frequency activated switch ,4 wires go into this and two are bigger wires ,these two bigger wires cut and join together and i think this will cure your problem .

This truck for some unknown reason uses a dual solinoid starter setup so from experience I would check small wire on starter they onigalally had a push on connector which corrodes and if starter is replaced it comes with bolt on connect which if not properly spliced on(using dielectric grease/soldering and shrink tape) will also corrode after time.

Put the key in to the on position to make sure the fuel pump comes on, if it does that rules out the relay switch check your fuel filter back flush it hook back up. Could just need a new fuel pump

your need to change your fuel pump or your sencer is bad not reading from pump, could cause a fire pump will burn out..

the tank selector valve is stuck or not switching when u switched ur tanks

Help,
I have a 92 F-150 XLT with a 5.0. The ignition switch block burned up so I replaced it. Now it will not get spark when I crank it over, but when I crank it and let off of the key, I get one spark jump from the coil; to the distributer. (I have a spark tester I placed on the cap to the wire) I have replaced the coil and the ignition module that is on the fender attached to the brain, I have replaced the ignition cylinder and key (It was acting up) and I took the dash apart to see the wire harness to ensure there was no burnt wires. (The wire connection to the ignition block is not damaged from when the switch burned.
Does anyone know if there is a part that tends to go bad when the ignition block burns up??
Help, Thanks, Todd

Ya the coolant temp sensor is probably bad. This would show no or little reading on your temp gauge.

Have you changed fluid & filter lately? Especially a truck, it should be done every 60k. Hard shifting is first signs filter is loading up.

Look for a vacuum leak, broken or dislodged hose. Your system is designed to fail in the defrost position.