Programming a key fob is all about timing. You are most likely doing everything correctly, just not in the correct time sequence. Keep at it, it might take you a dozen times, but you can get it. A tip is to do it as quickly as possible.
Here are the programming instructions:
*** THERE ARE 2 POSSIBLE PROGRAMMING PROCEDURES. ***Procedure #1Note: Obtain all remote transmitters for this vehicle.
Note: Do not depress the brake pedal during procedure.
Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 10 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.)
Within 20 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 4.
Within 20 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 3. For all other remotes.
Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.
Procedure #2Note: Obtain all remote transmitters for this vehicle.
Fasten seat belts and close all doors.
Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 4 times within 6 seconds, with the 4th time ending in RUN. (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.)
Turn ignition to OFF. Acoustic signal will sound and system warning lamp will illuminate to confirm programming mode.
Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on the first keyless remote. Wait for acoustic sound and warning lamp to flash (confirming programming) then release button on remote. Wait 2 seconds but within 10 seconds repeat step 4. For all other remotes. If you only have one remote then continue to step 5.
Turn ignition to Crank or wait 10 seconds to end programming mode.
Bonus Tip: You can save time and money purchasing a Ford Explorer Key Fob online from Keyless Entry Remote Inc.
The first d is over drive . This helps with take offs ,slowing down,
going up hills or towing . The second d is normal driving . I
keep mine in over drive all the time . It dont really use much more gas either
Or the headlamp switch or the low high dimmer switch ! Does it DRL - day time running lamps ? Ignition switch has nothing to do with the headlamps or power locks . Also if the ignition switch was the problem the vehicle wouldn't start . Here is a web site for wiring diagrams http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter your vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size ! Under system click on lighting then under subsystem click on headlamps ! Then click the search button , three links will pop up . Click them one at a time ! With a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter test for B+ voltage at the headlamp switch , turn on the headlamps on low an check for B+ voltage coming out . Check on high beam as well . Here are a couple of videos , check em out . Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens Shorts
firstly there should be drain holes in the corners, open sunroof and look in all the corners, if they are blocked then any water that gets thru cant run away, thus coming into your car. if you can figure out how to take the glass right out, it has been known to take some thin electrical wire and run it round behind the seal, making the seal a little wider...
Go on Utube there are great how to videos on how to fix this .
Like lifbreen said there is three little nylon bushings in the motor that get crushed over the years Advance auto sells these for a few $$ . I did all of mine for less then $10