20 Most Recent 1995 Ford Escort - Page 5 Questions & Answers

sounds like it could be the idle speed control valve

If you have a inside hood release, the cable might have come off the latch system. If you can see the latch through the front hood seam or the grille, use a long screw driver or putty knife blade to trip the latch. If the latch release is OK, the POP-UP spring might be broken and you could use a coat hanger wire to pull up on the hood as the latch is released.

Check fuel pressure and intake air sensor!

Speed sensors are either located on your transmission output shaft or on your wheel(s) mounted to your knuckle

The turn signal switch is probably bad.

Replace both front wheel hub bearing assy's

first check your fan connections to make sure they are not loosed. And does this problem happen on all fan speeds or just one? if it happens on only one speed, your fan speed controller is worn out.

get diagnostics done to find fault

What does that mean? It blows air but not hot air? It doesn't blow air at all with A/C or heat? I assume you mean it blows, just not hot. If so, make sure your car is running at operating temp. If the car isn't warming up, your thermostat is stuck open and the coolant can't heat up enough to transfer heat from the heater core to the air you're blowing out the vents. If your car warms up to operating temp just fine, you may have a heater core issue. Your core may be clogged with corrosion thus not allowing heat transfer as well. If the valve on the inlet hose to your heater core is bad it won't allow hot coolant into the heater core, once again no heat to the air blowing out your vents. One of these is most likely your issue. I hope this helps.

If it is in fact a 1995 Escort GT, congratulations. The 1991-1996 Ford Escort GT is powered by a 1.8L DOHC Mazda engine, the same engine is also found in the, 1991-1995 Ford Escort LXE, 1990-99 Mazda Protege, 1991-95 Mercury Tracer LTS and 1994-97 Kia Sephia GS. The engine is over-built - I have a 1995 Escort GT in my garage with over 200,000 miles on it. I recently had the engine out of the car to replace the freeze plugs and I can tell you the following - it doesn't have an EGR valve but it does have a mounting pad on the driver's side of the lower plenum that was cast but never machined for one, it's Vane Air Flow like on an RX-7 or Protege not MAS, and the crank angle sensor is contained in the distributor - it's not part of the harmonic balancer. The PCV valve is mounted on the back of the the valve cover on the passenger side and the hose goes to the middle of the upper plenum not to the non-existent EGR valve. And absolutely none of this is helping you get your car started. You need to troubleshoot this like a Mazda product, not a Ford since the only Ford parts in the engine bay are the sheet metal and fuel line connectors. There's no quick or easy answer to what's going on, but I would recommend getting a Haynes/Chilton's manual or at least reference one for their trouble-shooting guides before throwing dollars at a problem like this since it can be anything from fouled plugs to the ECU. Start at the spark plugs and work backward, it's cheaper. Pull one of the plug wires off of a spark plug and have someone turn the engine over while you check for spark by holding the plug wire close to the engine. If you get a spark, then check check the plugs - oil fouled, gapped correctly, etc. If you don't get a spark, check distributor cap and rotor along with plug wires. It just keeps going, that's why you really should get a repair manual of some sort so you can do it in an orderly fashion.