20 Most Recent 1995 Ford Escort - Page 7 Questions & Answers

you either have a clogged ac line or you have a vacuum problem that will prevent the correct vent doors to open to allow the air to enter

First see if there's power to the low side out out on accumulator. It's just an on/offswitch and will shut down compressor when pressures drop too low for any reason - like cold weather. If you have a static pressure in system over 35 or so the switch will let power in one side and out the other to the compressor. You can put a paperclip in the connector and jump it if a two wire switch. Don't mess with it if it has three wires. If no power there the relay is suspect. It should be under the hood in some protective black box and be and inch square thing. I believe even in Escorts by 98 they are just push in boxes and should be with others for fuel pump and electronic engine control relays and may be marked inside of box which is which. They probably all have the same part #. These parts are cheap even from Ford and they should be nice enough to show you a screen with a diagram of its location. I think the last ones I bought were only 5 bucks or so and a spare never hurts to have with you. There is probably a regular fuse before power even gets to the relay. If you don't have the regular 12V test light with alligator clip and wire of the handle get one. They a wicked handy and cheap ones are at Wal-Mart for under 5 bucks. Always test the light each time you use it. Great for testing fuses without even removing them - if power on both sides that fuse is working. If power checks out a common problem is a "too" large gap in the compressor's clutch. You can test this with system on (should work with engine off and key in run with A/C on) or with engine on but be careful and tap the head of the clutch - if it clicks in that's your trouble and most are simple to fix. If so hit back and I'll explain how to fix that. Again careful with that test as if clutch engages it could throw your tapping device (wood or rubber best) at you or something!! Sorry for being slow today. My own car needs a water pump and worked on another all day. My pump is fairly hard to do so it will take up some time and I'm doing all the hoses and more at the same time. Mustang Parts.

do you have the necessary paperwork and engineers certificate plus factory homoglonation number to carry this conversion out ,and a certificate from an authorised garage stating that have fitted the engine to factory conformation?? then taken vehicle to the annual mechanical inspection station to have the installation inspected

Not exactly. The main wires from the alternator are specially made to act as fuses. You would need to check each end for power to see if the wire is burnt inside.

There MUST be some kind of problem with the linkage,Transmission Kickdown, Throttle?

Has your guy tried to open the throttle BY HAND, with it in gear, and you in the car with your foot on the brake?

Possible you have a broken throttle cable, and the linkage at the thottle is broken/bent.

Of course, this is JUST A GUESS, having never seen the car. Also, this is one that I, nor every other mechanic I know, has ever heard of.

do you mean the drive shaft. if so you just need a good lever bar to prise the drive shaft out of the transmission.if you mean you want the drive shaft out of the front wheel hub then you may need a good pller to femove it as it can be very tight on the splines

MAINTENANCE ;tune up,coils,fuel filter.Last thing fuel pump.Check battery and connection.

Check timing and make sure you R getting fuel to cylinders and spark to plugs

Google it

The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exceptions to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.

Are you saying the heater blower is not working ?Have you checked the resistor and the blower motor for power and ground ?

may be that the linkage under the car needs adjusting. i would check that first.

check to see if your engine coolant fans turn on as soon as you turn it on,also check to see if your radiator colant is good

if you have a carby check the the idle solenoid is connedted and working, If you have an efi system check the engine speed sensor. Check for loose carby, manifold. broken vacuum lines for leaks . If you have your foot on the brake when starting take it off and see if it runs. If it does then the fault will be in the brake booster