Remove two self-tapping screws that attach the multi-function switch to the steering column tube casting. Disengage multi-function switch
from casting.
Disconnect the two electrical connectors, using caution not to damage the
locking tabs. Do not damage PRNDL cable.
1
Steering Column
2
Screw
3
Multi-Function Switch
4
Wiring to Multi-Function Switch
A
Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 Lb-In)
Installation
Install the two switch electrical connectors to full engagement. The wiring
for the switch is to be routed under the PRNDL cable.
Align the mounting holes on multi-function switch with the holes in the
steering column tube casting. Install two self-tapping screws making sure to
start the screws in the previously tapped holes. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27
lb-in).
For automatic transmission (7003), verify that the PRNDL adjustment is
correct.
Install the steering column shroud.
NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some
abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10
miles or more for powertrain control module to relearn the
strategy.
Connect the battery ground cable.
Check the steering column tube for proper operation.
I hope this helps, if you have any questions just ask
I am sure there is with a multimeter check voltage on your TPS and compare it to specs. If out of specs and if adjustable adjust after the wiring has been checked though. Make sure you a a good ground, good reference voltage usually around 5volts and that the signal wire isn't shorted or opened. If all this is ok and sensor can't be adjusted or will not respond to adjustment replace sensor.
Check the coolant temp sensor (the one that speaks to the ECU) which acts like the choke on a old carb type engine. These can be tested with a multimeter by dunking them in different temp water.
Hi there,
I am no mechanic, but have had similar issues. Essentially, with a key-in, turn-over, no start condition; there are only two causes: 1) no fuel; or 2) no spark.
Determining which, and where in each system chain the root cause is a matter of elimination. Having said that, where I would start (based on my similar condition to yours), is the throttle position sensor (the sensor that tells the truck's computer how open/closed the butterfly valve is within your throttle body. Essentially, my sensor was cracked, causing the truck to receive signals that were conflicting with the vehicle rpm, speed, etc. so the computer would shut the truck down (or go to safe mode).
The sensor I replaced costs $30 and took 5 minutes to repair.
Good luck.
sounds like either a vacuum leak (check the bottom of the "tomatoe juice can" for starters) or a bad or plugged egr valve or egr solenoid.check engine lite refers to emissions probs only...most likely egr or vac leak. Had the same prob on my 95 5.0 f150...needed new can and egr valve.
I assume that you have not been able to properly charge this A/C? If not, use a cotter pin to short the terminals on the low pressure switch. Charge it to the proper pressures. Remove the cotter pin and reconnect the low pressure switch.
Hi, Did you use Motorcraft tune-up parts or el-cheapos? If the latter than you cap/rotor may be bad. There is likely a code 'stored' in the truck's computer. See the attached video on how to read them.
GL
TD How to read check engine light code on Ford 1983 1995 EEC 4 system
You need to have the fuel pump pressure tested when this loss of power is present. You should at least 42 PSI and about 50 PSI under a load or when the throttle is applied quickly. The fuel pressure test port is on the fuel supply rail on the top of engine, it is a pipe that sits over the fuel injectors. The fuel press test port looks like a tire inflator valve.
