20 Most Recent 1997 Ford Aspire Questions & Answers

https://www.wikituneup.com/wikit/1997_Ford_Aspire_Advance_Timing

https://www.wikituneup.com/wikit/1997_Ford_Aspire_Advance_Timing

Before replacing the bulbs you should have checked for B + voltage at the connector . Looking at a wiring diagram to see what all is involved in flasher electrical circuit should be done an the testing before any parts are replaced . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb/ Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine . Under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click on hazard lamp. Click the search button then the blue link. Looking at the wiring for the turn signals ,the only thing i see that mite be the problem is a bad ground G-101 . Do you know how to test electrical circuits with a DVOM - digital volt ohmmeter ? Check the ground . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SO-eKuhCOqc&t=125s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaYtCVBodpw&t=98s

The fuse to check is the 30 amp injection fuse. It's next to the battery as shown below. you can interrogate the relay socket or check for voltage at the fuel pump connector. The latter is the surest way to know if it's the pump versus the circuit. The green and black wires at the fuel pump connector are the ones that run the pump. Not sure where the relays are, but I see 3 along the firewall in the pic below--hopefully they are labeled. To interrogate a relay socket, see my post at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6022358-relay_check .

The fuel pump reset switch on your vehicle is located in a small compartment on the left side of the luggage compartment.

Let me know if you have questions.

Blown fuses or loose connectors in the cluster or blown bulbs or missing ones that were taken out to hide problems how does it run and are the systems working is there oil ,brake fluid ,battery good starting I think that these may have been problems that were fixed and the bulbs burnt out or wires maybe cut trying to hide potential high repairs it's hard to say I'm not there to check out the car myself so I can only guess what's going on please post back with progress and I will continue to work with you on this issue until the conclusion is reached and fixed you can only tell the overall running condition of the vehicle and relay the info to me I'm a taxi mechanic in NYC with 50 years of experience in all vehicles and I am also an electrical specialist so the right guy found you now you have to be my eyes and ears post precise info not general statements as to what you did and write it down so it can be eliminated from our check list (1)fluid levels(2)fuses(3)bulbs(4) overall running condition (5)get your car book with fuse and relay locations the Ford site is under maintenance and can not be accessed fordownersmanual.com if you can register and download the owners manual for free and go to roadside emergencies and the fuse box and power distribution box diagrams are there with the fuse values and keep this on your phone /computer for the future get back to me tomorrow and I'll take it from there ok I'm doing a crown Victoria's engine rebuild right now it had 416,577 when the Ben Hur diving it did it in so accomplish as much as possible and get back to me good luck Stephen

don't spend money on a tune up until you have the fault codes read The ECM does a tune up every 60 seconds and any faults are stored as fault codes or engine light if serious enough you can check the fuel pressure ( 45-65psi) or run quality injector cleaner as a maintenance program

first up , if there was no compression test done to determine if the head gasket is in fact at fault then do not take that persons word for the fault the original problem could be blocked radiator cores that could handle the extra cooling required by the long trip at speed, could be a problem thermostat or radiator hose collapsing while you may now have a problem head gasket / warped/cracked head that is just the symptom of a failure elsewhere from your statement I would recommend that you find an accredited service center with experience on your make of vehicle and get proper diagnosis and quotes as it will cost you a lot more from your inexperience if you diy

Get the factory service manual it will explain in detail the procedure, however a quick run down. Remove kick down cable, remove any associated hardware attached to tranny, Disconnect the battery, jack the car up onto jack stands, remove shifter cable, remove lower control arms, remove half shafts, remove bolts holding torque converter to engine, remove bolts holding tranny to engine, remove tranny mounts, lower transmission onto tranny jack and pull away from vehicle.

Call the dealer they will tell you or buy a chiltons/haynes book for your car it will be in ty

The only way to be sure is to check for power at the starter solenoid. If there is 12 volts there then the starter is probably bad. Then remove the starter and take it to a starter shop or parts store for testing.

You will need to go to a shop and have then hook up there computer to test the system for any sensor that may be malfunctioning.at that point they can clear codes from air bags. Air bags are something you want to have a professional Look at.
Dennis... If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dennis_f849d3d6a68c6430

Chech fuses. You find here the diagram and description fuse box for Ford Aspire http://www.autogenius.info/en/ford-aspire-fuse-box-usa-version/

very good chance that you blew the computer, try needle nose pliers to get fuse out, omg i feel so sorry for you, good chance all the electronics are fried.

If rears work but front do not could be bad multifunction switch (turn signal switch).

2? i think

Bye your self a Chiltons manual for your type of car and this Book/Manual will do you wonders.

You can get an old spark plug and remove one of the plug wires and connect this spare plug to it Have another person help you by turning the key. Watch for a blue spark on the spare plug.