20 Most Recent 1998 Ford Expedition - Page 2 Questions & Answers

probably not a major fix but a TR sensor or VSS sensor problem take it to a professional auto transmission shop for a proper diagnosis and reading of the fault codes

Just wanted to say that there is a plastic bracket holding the steering hose to the frame as it goes to the steering fluid cooler at the drivers' front of grille. They usually leak as moisture and salt are held against metal line held in this bracket.

Nope, they do not!

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IFYOU FIND THE AIR BAGS ARE LEAKING (USUALLY IS THE PROBLEM) JUST REPLACE IT. LIFT UP THE REAR REMOVE THE TIRE ,DISCONNECT THE PLASTIC LINE THAT GOES TO THE AIR BAG (push the little grommet pull the plastic hose) DISCONNECT THE WIRE CONNECTOR, AND REMOVE THE CLIP AT THE TOP OF THE AIR BAG (JUST PULL IT) AND REMOVE THE AIR BAG (REVERSE TO INSTALL IT) (YOU CAN REMOVE THE AIR BAG IN ABOUT 40 MINUTES) EACH SIDE.( on ebay you can find replacement to a regular shocks) or air bags

where is the rear door fuse located on a 2000 ford expedition?

Gears are stripped.. On lower gears from riding the clutch.

the light may have nothing to do with the previous fault run the fault codes again

Can be an alarm for regular service check. Otherwise, seatbelt alarm for passenger seat.

check fuel pressure, bad pressure relay or pump

all code readers will retrieve information stored while in the on position --doesnt need to be running ---when you rehook up scanner either resubmit or edit request with codes

Really sounds like a vacuum leak. Lean code could still be accurate. Screaming idle usually means air is getting into engine. Ruptured EGR diaphragm would vent air. Brake booster could vent air. A lot of air will show lean mix. You may have to use different methods to test vacuum. Some use vacuum gauge to test egr and lines which dead end into solenoids. Other tests use water spray or propane gas to draw in and change rpm. You are at a disadvantage if engine does not run. Crankshaft sensor helps set fuel volume for given rpm. Might not be counting all the rpm's, but would not account for fast idle.

The park lights staying on indicates the switch is deteriorating. I would replace it. The door locks is probably a voltage issue. With the cold weather, the locks need more voltage to unlock. They get that voltage when the engine is running. If you really want the locks to work without the engine, you might try accessing the locks and cleaning them. Then use a lightweight grease, like lithium grease, to help them open with less power.

check the thermostat. . .

Fuel pressure test , is there spark ? Videos on youtube showing how to check .

Do you have a check engine light blinking when this problem occurs? I assume you do because if it is missing and sputtering like you say the engine control computer would detect that and turn on the check engine light. Next step is to have the systems fault codes read through the diagnostic port under the dash in front of the driver, Autozone and others does this test for free.

I would be checking for problem engine/ transmission mounts

Go back and talk to the service manager. If he wont do anything go to his higher up.

Take the plug out of the side of the transfer case. Fill with recommended fluid until it starts to run out of the hole. Put plug back in and tighten. As for the drive problem. You need to take it to a transmission specialist. The dealer is a good place or you can find a reputable transmission shop in your town too.