20 Most Recent 1965 Ford Mustang - Page 9 Questions & Answers

positive to starter and alternator
negative to blok and fram, body

If the shift lever (the part you use to change gears) feels like it's wobbling too much from side to side then the bushings in it's mount are worn out. Rebuild kits are available from most Classic Mustang supply houses like CJ Pony Parts, Macs and others. This is a simple repair that does not require dropping the transmission. Remove the console and/or shifter plate. This exposes the shift lever mount. A couple of wrenches and 20 minutes and you're done. Don't forget some white lithium grease. Expect to pay between 20 and 30 bucks depending on which shifter and transmission you have.

change old oil and filter make sure all spark plug wires are there and look ok take spark plug out and pour little amounts of marvel mystery oil down into cyl. then turn engine over acouple times if it has a oil pressure guage make sure with spark plugs out and engine turning that you have some oil pressure.then take some fuel line and connect it to the fuel pump on the side of the engine you most take off line going to the fuel tank in order to do this then put all but one spark plug back in the put all the wires on then the one plug that you left out check for spark by installing the wire on the plug and setting the plug on something metal on the car (grounded) the turn the engine over and look if the plug is making a spark if so put it all back together. then with that line you put on the fuel pump stick it into a gas can with plenty of fuel then pour a tiny amont into the carb and try to start

You should have two flat head screws that hold the breaker plate, one has a ground wire attached. Remove those and the breaker plate will spin so you can clear the link from the housing (that takes me back a year or two).

Hi,
I love older cars. If they get gas and get fire, something occurs. I really would like more detail on what's happening with the car (symptoms)... but I'll throw a few bones out there.
If the engine is dying while driving, I would have to check out a few things...
Fuel issues, assuming the fuel pump is ok:
1. If it tends to die as you give it gas, it's possible the fuel filter is clogged enough to starve the carburator.
2. Is the carburator flooding out?... should be able to smell gas and it wouldn't want to crank readily.
3. Is there condensation in the carburator from "bad gas"? Get a fuel addative and pour it in your tank. It'll evaporate condensation build-up in the tank and carb as you run the engine.
Electronic issues:
1. If it runs great at all revolutions but suddenly dies, I would look at any loose wiring connections at the coil. Also check the hot wire to the coil and insure it isn't arcing on the engine due to burned off insulation.
2. Make sure your points/condensor are good and points gapped properly.
3. If it backfires out the carburator or exhaust when you give it gas, the timing is off a hair...
I may have missed a point or two, but these are pretty basic trouble spots. I hope we nailed it.
Cool car, by the way!
Hope this helped... Good luck!

Remove rear seat and interior side panels. You'll see nuts on the posts for the trim pieces.

directly in front of the water pump,front of the engine which is directly in back of the radiator. center it in back of the radiator, and you will get a general idea on the engine.

Go to carsandparts.com.It's an old car magazine's web site. They have an extensive classified ad section broken down by maker and model. These ads include companies that repair and replace almost anything, including radios. Hope this helps.

So, you have an integral regulator on your alternator.... so you have to connect the output of the regulator to your battery. You also have to connect between the regulator and the alternator. Hmmmmm how to describe....
using your descriptions of wires and prongs.....
Connect Wire Color to Prong

Yellow (w/wht dot) A+
White (w/blk tracer) STA
Black (w/orange tracer) Bat (alt output)
Ground wire Grd
Orange (w/Lt.Blue) F (field)
If battery was connected, the Black with orange tracer wire would have +12 Volts on it at all times

on the edge of the block by the trans mount, or on the side of the block by the oil pan.

Yes. It had larger main caps than the typical 289 block. However there are variations on the theme and you could see a smallblock with a 6016 that predates the 289 alltogether (260 or smaller) as well as into the 70s even on a 351 windsor! Hopefully you have a hipo 289 bottom end with the larger caps and thats all you need to know.

This sounds like too much fluid...

Have your gearbox checked. Stucked up issue,
is often caused by a worn out part, (Bearing, or
bushing, or geartrain.

I presume you mean the correct adjustment.... My preference is to have the shift points come a little late...

the correct adjustment is somewhat subjective, but when driving along, easy throttle, and come to a slight incline, the trans needs to shift down at some point, adjust until it does. Not enough means you really have to press the throttle, too much means the shift happens too early...

It is forgiving within those parameters...

you need to gap the points, I believe the spec is .015", a company called pertronix makes a solid state kit for those that will save you alot of brain dmage... uses the stock coil too

Automatic trans would use type F fluid.