Top 20 1965 Ford Mustang Questions & Answers

drivers side floorboard/firewall under dash

Does the fuse blow before or after you step on the brake? If it blows only after you step on the brake, and voltage from stop lamp switch only goes to rear brakes and not through multifunction switch. If only one connector at the rear for brake lamps, take connector loose, step on the brake, if the fuse still blows, the problem is before the connector. You could Use new wire from brake switch feed, when brake switch is activated, to the rear brakes. Leave pigtail at both ends, splice in new wire, You could let new wire just lay on the ground, for testing, from brake switch to rear brakes. If the brakes work and doesn't blow the fuse, Make the new wire permanent and route the wire properly. Just my opinion. I don't have wiring diagram for your model year.

All I can suggest is to go backwards through what you did. Look for the part that seems wrong or out of place. It could be something as simple as a mounting or bolt in the wrong place. Or even something fitted the wrong way around.

get a new gasket / make a new gasket using neoprene rubber sheet

Sounds like it could be. It's not big enough for an inline fuse, is it? I recall seeing those glass fuses that could be rated at 30 amps, so that could do the same job as a fusible link. And going from the accessory post to the wiper switch is odd without a fuse link or an inline fuse that protects the circuit. Generally, the accessory post wires are directed to the fuse block first before going to the circuits. I'm doing a little rewiring myself on a friend's '51 Chevy (rustbucket) car. It appears there are only 2 fuses standard on this old thing. The wiring was pretty simple back then. How many on your '65 ford?

.034 gap. Different spark plug manufacturers may have different spark plug specs?

306 hp

You need the dealer to decode that.

Bad instrument cluster

Check your drive line for any dents or missing weights

Check battery cables, main fuse, and fusiable link, I worked on vehicle with the same problem no power and it was main fuse

About 6.5 hours to do the job. Times their labor rate. Buy a flywheel. I can guaranty yours will be bad. Weather is or not.

You most likely have air the brake lines. You need to bleed the brake lines to restore pedal height.

Recheck timing. Get #1 cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke. Make sure the timing mark on the balancer is where it should be. Then pull the cap and make sure the rotor button is pointing to the #1 wire on the cap.

backfiring is ignition of the fuel mixture while an inlet valve is still open. Check firing order as there may be a HT lead crossed . If it backfires then the mixture is burnt in the inlet manifold so there is nothing left for the cylinders so it will stall. If you are running holley carby then check the power valve for a hole in the diaphram Check for vacuum leaks. check ignition timing is correct and not too far advanced. if the HT leads are touching each other this will induce a spark in the wrong cylinder --use lead spacers from an auto spares shop

It might need a tune up.

you need to find the tdc on compression cylinder number one and poin dist rotor to face cylinder one on the cap

Remove the steering wheel & check for worn wiring, for the horn that may be grounding out

The choke linkage is not properly hooked up or adjusted. The throttle linkage is not adjusted properly or there isn't enough vacuum. The choke linkage has a tab that prevents the 4 barrels from opening when the choke is engaged. There is a tab on the throttle linkage from the front 2 barrels that will engage the secondaries when they rotate past a certain point. Vacuum opens the top plates on the secondaries.

TDC or 0 degrees timing advance will have #1 piston at the top of the cylinder. The timing mark on the harmonic balancer or crank pulley will be on the 0 reference mark.