1989 Ford Ranger - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

sounds like egr valve may need replaced

as for the temp gauge all rangers that i have seen run so cool that the hardly move from the c unless u have a major overheat as for the fuel gauge it could be the descending unit in tank and the speed cable is not to hard to change hardest part is removing the instrument panel

On replacing the speedometer cable, on a scale of 1 to 10, probably 3 or 4.
Hooking to the transmission, " baby play ", connecting the other end to the speedometer, well that represents the 4.

check your fuel filter first
then check fuel flow
may have bad fuel pump

Hello,

To remove the front head light please follow the steps below:

1. Place the Ford Ranger in "Park." Turn the engine off. Turn the headlights off. Remove the key from the ignition. Allow the truck to cool for about 20 minutes.
2. Open the hood of the vehicle. Locate the two retainer pins on the headlight assembly of the light that needs to be replaced. Pry the retainer pins open with your finger. This releases the headlight assembly from the Ranger.
3. Pull the headlight assembly forward. Unplug the electrical connector from the back of the assembly by hand. Rotate the retaining ring counterclockwise and slide it off the plastic bulb base.
4. Pull the burned out bulb straight out of the headlight assembly. Discard the used bulb. Insert a replacement bulb into the headlight assembly and push it straight into the socket until it clicks into place. Slide the retaining ring around the bulb and rotate it clockwise to secure it.
5. Plug the electrical connector into the back of the unit. Slide the headlight assembly back into the Ranger. Push the retaining pins back down to secure the headlight assembly.

Hope this helped. thank You for using FixYa!!!

Replace your gauge fuse

Its possible that its the pressure regulator. But its more likely that its the fuel pump or even the fuel filter You say it olny starts to run bad when you give it more gas. If it were the pressure regulator then it wouldn't matter becaues what that dose is keep the fuel pressure constant under all driveing conditions. Although the problem could be to much fuel witch could mean the regulator is allowing to much fuel to enter the system. Pull some plugs out and see what they look like they should be a tan color if the engine is running good if there gas fooled wet and black then its is to much fuel if there kind of white then its running to lean and its not enough fuel and you should check the delivery system pump and all filters well good luck

switch to primium gas

Cross pattern, 95 lbs.

I would begin to look at a relay problem i have experience with Ford some of the relays are just not the best they seem to go on them allot however the relay would be my best solution to start looking keep in mind you might have a short or ground problem as well this vehicle is22 years old wires and switches are and corroded.

Yes there is for fuse to the starter, it's under the driver's side dash. you will need a diagram of the fuses [ in the owner's manual or on-line at the Ford web site. good luck

Check heater control valve. Usually inline one of the heater hoses

sounds like maybe a fuel tank issue ( contaminated fuel or bad fuel pick up tube ).
also could be a carburetor float issue ( water in bowl ).
what happens when you get on level ground -- will it start again or is it still dead ?

c...

YOU NOT HAVE THE PLUGS IN RIGHT FIRING ORDER CHECK YOUR WIRES IF IT NOT THAT CHECK THE DISTRIBUTOR.

you will need to replace the speedometer cable.

Make sure its getting fuel and spark, if it is have the ignition module checked, also the battery, sometimes they will turn over BUT not start the engine

possible syncromeshing is worn out on the gear box. the syncromesh is a small clutch like part of your gearbox if this has stopped then the gear selection will be jumpy they call this crunch gear box.

either way you will most likely needs a new gearbox.

the other issue might be the cluthch is snatching if the vehicle is automatic then it will be the gearbox.

i hope this was useful

the fan is threaded onto the water pump, they do make a set of wrenches to remove the fan. but all you have to do is leave the belt on the water pump and take a long blunt nose punch and put the tip of the punch on the very edge of one of the flats on the big nut on the back of the fan and hit it with a hammer, keep in mind the direction of the threads most are right handed but some of the early ones were left handed threads, if they are left handed it should be marked on the fan shroud, in a pinch the drag bar off the back of a tiller makes a pretty good punch......GOOD LUCK.....just remember righty tighty lefty loosey

if your taking the trans down u disconnected from the slave cylinder its got a roll pin that you got to punch out with a punch or it has a white circle at the end of the line you push it in and pull the line out at the same time but im pretty sure its got the pin the line on the side of the thans is connected the same way on the trow out bering

the tranmission has failed, no other explanation for this.