1992 Ford F250 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

They are probably out of adjustment.

Your power brake booster is controlled ny vacuum so if it was going bad or if you had a leak in the vacuum hose that connects to your brake pedal would be hard. I hope this helps and good luck.

I get belt routings from Dayco:
http://www.accessdayco.com/automotive#

There are several belts listed. This is a serpentine version, but you may need to look at the others.

Is the battery fully charged and have you put a load test on the battery to ensure no dead cells?

If battery is not the issue, could be the started solenoid.

You blew a head gasket. Remove the head and see if you can see where the gasket failed, have the head shaved and replace gaskets.

There is never a test or reason to pump your brakes

Accomplishes absolutely nothing.

There is no pressure in a braking system at all,
until you SLOWLY apply the brake pedal.

Then less than 1" off movement in the master cyl,
will develop 600 to 1800 lbs at the wheels

Release the brake pedal, the system goes to zero,
IT DOES NOT HOLD ANY PRESSURE

To answer your question

You not suppost to press the pedal hard
The saying goes--you apply the brakes,
not force the pedal arm and pin into the
vacuum booster, as though you want to damage it

When your driving what happens ?
You have higher manifold vacuum and
thus your pedal is normal,why the VACUUM
brake booster

there is a pressure feed back sensor going bad all the times
also check the two hoses connected to this sensor for crack or blockage
check the pipe that goes to the egr valve for crack
it won't hurt to pull the egr valve back out to check to see if there is any thing cause the valve to stay open

could be starter going bad when it gets hot she won't turn over ...

Check/replace your ignition module.

pre powerstroke diesels are 12 quarts, powerstrokes are 14 quarts

THis is a problem with your VCC gear in your transmission.

Get under truck and locat it,if you cant find it ,,Go to your local Ford dealer ship and pull aroud to the garage and ask a mechanic to tell you,,,Once you find it remove positive battery cable,and remove cable and wire from starter and remove 2 bolds holding it in place,,,Put the new one in and thats it.

check the fuse if that is on working order then check the relay to the fuel pump.

Could be a stopped up heater core. This job on this truck takes about 15 mins through the glove box opening.

Have you replaced the fuel filter? It could be clogged, causing the fuel to take longer to get to the injection system. Replace the filter and, and any inline filters if equipped (under hood). If this does not help, consider using an injector cleaner (I recommend Sea Foam) of which you can pick up at a local auto parts dealer. If this does not help either, consider then replacing the fuel pump itself - it's possible it will run, but may not be pumping fuel, or very little fuel - a sign that it's about to go.
Please let me know if you need further assistance.
carsandcomps,
Guru, Premium & Phone Expert @ Fixya.com

You need to change high and low beam switch

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove both wiper arm and blade assemblies.
3. Remove the cowl grille attaching screws and lift the cowl grille slightly.
4. Disconnect the washer nozzle hose and remove the cowl grille assembly.
5. Remove the wiper linkage clip from the motor output arm.
6. Disconnect the wiper motor's wiring connector.
7. Remove the wiper motor's three attaching screws and remove the motor. To install:
   
8. Install the motor and attach the three attaching screws. Tighten to 60-85 inch lbs.
9. Connect wiper motor's wiring connector.
10. Install wiper linkage clip to the motor's output arm.
11. Connect the washer nozzle hose and install the cowl assembly and attaching screws.
12. Install both wiper arm assemblies.
13. Connect the negative battery cable.

Installing the wiper arm connecting clip.

The timer for the glow plugs is only about 9 seconds any way. The glow plugs are quick plugs, meaning they heat up fast. Hard starting for a diesel can be due to the glow plugs. But there are other things which will be more involved. One is clean non leaking injectors. Then, normal compression then injection pump timing, and proper pump / injector pressure, . All these things make a diesel start and run better. We tend to forget our diesels need to be tuned up very much the same as a gas burner. Now I am not sure if your engine is turning over or not. I have had many starter problems and a slow starter is another reason for a "no start", a diesel has to build compression to cause ignition, it needs to do it quickly. I am on my 4th starter. Second one this winter, which was hard on my truck. I have put a block heater in and that helped so much I cant think why I did not do it sooner. Try the block heater. Check in to an injector / injection pump cleaning, and a tune up. Hope this helps.

I would check the chassis ground. It is a wire coming from negative terminal of battery to the body. The motor is isolated by rubber motor mounts/transmission mounts. I've seen a lot of vehicles with braided ground strap break in two. You can undo a fender bolt under hood and ground to negative post with wire just to check. Hope this helps.

best bet considering the age of the vehicle is to stop by your local junk/wrecking/recycling yard. tell them the size motor (hopefully it's a 3.8 litre). and they should be able to supply you with the part.