1992 Ford F250 - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There is a few options but first I am hoping with your fuel pump replacement that you replaced the fuel filter if not do it first.
next have you checked you throttle body idle speed control device... See below on diagnostics
The curb and fast idle speeds are controlled by the Engine Control Assembly (ECA) and the Idle Speed Control Bypass Air Valve (ISC-BPA) . The ISC-BPA valve is not adjustable. A large increase or decrease in closed plate airflow from the calibrated level will not allow this device to control the speed.
The idle speed setting procedure has been revised considerably to reflect the expanded application of the Self-Test idle speed options and because the throttle body incorporates an orifice in the throttle plate to control idle airflow as part of the sludge tolerant design.


Throttle bodies with sludge tolerant design are clearly identified with a Yellow/Black decal. This decal warns that the throttle plate stop screw must not be adjusted counterclockwise (backed off), as this will not reduce the engine speed but may cause the throttle plate to stick in the bore. Backing out the screw may be required if the throttle body has been previously serviced (a plug in the throttle plate orifice may be present) or the plate stop screw tampered with (TPS Self-Test output out of range). The decal also warns that the throttle body must NOT be cleaned inside the bore, as this cleaning will impair the sensitive coating. The sludge accumulation will not affect the idle air flow. The cleaning procedure for the ISC-BPA still applies.

REMEMBER
A change in idle airflow can occur not only at the throttle body but other areas as well. You should enter the idle speed procedure only after other possible causes in the following areas are eliminated.

• Contamination within the idle speed control device
• Lack of fuel system control (excessively rich or lean)
• Throttle sticking or binding
• Engine not reaching operating temperature
• Incorrect ignition timing
• Incorrect or clogged PCV system
• Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, vacuum reservoirs, power brake booster etc.

VERIFY

• Transmission is in PARK (A/T), or NEUTRAL (M/T)
• Parking brake is applied (automatic brake disconnected where applicable)
• Wheels blocked
• Engine at operating temperature
• Proper fuel pressure and no exhaust smoke
• Correct and clean PCV system
• Heater, A/C, and other accessories OFF
• Ignition timing is set to specification
• EEC-IV diagnostics have been performed and vehicle malfunction indicated service output codes have been resolved.

STEP 1
With the engine OFF, connect a tachometer, according to manufacturer's instructions. Disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery for 5 minutes, then reconnect it.
STEP 2
START the engine and let stabilize for two minutes. Goose the accelerator and let the engine return to idle. Lightly depress and release the accelerator, then let the engine idle.
STEP 3
If the engine is not idling properly, turn the engine OFF, and proceed with this procedure.
STEP 4
Disconnect Idle Speed Control Air Bypass Solenoid.
STEP 5
START and RUN the engine at 2500 rpm for 30 seconds.
STEP 6
Place the transmission in PARK (A/T), or NEUTRAL (M/T).
STEP 7
Using a tachometer, verify the idle speed is at 650 +/-150 rpm.



NOTE: A plug in the throttle body orifice will decrease idle rpm. Where as an orifice without a plug will increase idle rpm. Orifice plugs and installation tools are available in service kit # FOPZ-9F652-A.

RPM TOO LOW

1. DO NOT clean the throttle body, check the plate orifice plug.

• If there is no plug, turn the screw clockwise to the desired rpm.
• If there is a plug from previous service, remove the plug, then adjust the screw in either direction as required. Screw must be in contact with the lever pad after adjustment.

RPM TOO HIGH

1. Turn the engine OFF.
2. Disconnect air cleaner hose.
3. Temporarily block the orifice in the throttle plate with tape. If the orifice already has a plug from previous service proceed to Step (e).
4. RESTART the engine. Check the idle speed, using a tachometer. NOTE: On vehicles with Mass Air Flow Sensors, reconnect the air intake duct hose prior to rechecking the rpm. If the engine stalls, crack open the throttle plate stop screw, but DO NOT over adjust.
5. If rpm continues to be fast, perform KOEO Self-Test.

• If TPS output code is within range, remove tape from throttle body and check for other possible causes.
• If TPS output is out of range, adjust screw for proper TPS code. Lever must be in contact with the screw.
• If rpm is still fast, terminate the procedure and check for other possible causes.

1. If rpm drops to 650 rpm or lower, or the engine stalls, turn the engine OFF, disconnect the air cleaner hose, and remove the tape from throttle plate.
2. Install an orifice plug with proper color code according to the throttle plate orifice size.
3. Reconnect the air cleaner hose. START the engine, and check the idle rpm using a tachometer. Turn the throttle plate stop screw clockwise until an idle speed of 650 +/- 25 rpm is achieved. NOTE: DO NOT turn the plate stop screw counterclockwise. This may cause the throttle plate to stick at idle.

STEP 8
Run the KOEO Self-Test for proper TPS code output.
STEP 9
Reconnect the Idle Speed Control Air Bypass Solenoid. Verify the throttle is not sticking in the bore, and the linkage is not preventing throttle from closing.
STEP 10
START the engine and idle for two minutes. Goose the accelerator and let the engine return to idle. Lightly depress and release the accelerator, then let engine idle.

PROCEDURES FOR PLUG INSTALLATION

STEP 1
Remove air inlet tube(s) from throttle body.
STEP 2
Select the proper color plug by using the Go/No-Go gauge pegs, included in the service kit (FOPZ-9F652-A).
STEP 3
Starting with the largest diameter gauge peg, attempt to insert through the throttle plate orifice.
STEP 4
If the gauge peg goes through the orifice, use the corresponding color plug.
If the gauge peg does not go through, proceed with the next smaller gauge peg for Go/No-Go Test.
NOTE: It is important that the largest Go/No-Go combination is used to determine the proper plug size.
STEP 5
If the smallest gauge peg does not go through the orifice, use the reamer bit and handle included with the service kit to enlarge the plate orifice. Wipe bearing grease on both sides of the plate orifice and on the reamer bit to hold the brass chips. After reaming, wipe plate clean and then return to Step 3 to determine the proper plug size.
STEP 6
Using the installation tool from the service kit, push the plug into the orifice until bottoming out at the throttle plate.
STEP 7
Open and snap closed the throttle several times to verify proper plug retention.
STEP 8
Reconnect the air inlet tube(s).
STEP 9
Reset idle rpm per engine requirement using the throttle plate stop screw.


Hope this helps

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Bad fuel pump. Replace and/or check auto cut off for pump. Please note fuel pumps (electric) for injection systems are almost always in the fuel tank.

STOPPED UP AIR FILTER.BAD ENGINE GROUND.COULD CAUSE NO START UP AFTER 30 MINUTES.

If you have the expirience or know what I`m saying,it`s going to be ease,Put the front end of the car in jack stans,so the front wheel are free,take the tires off,disassemble the locking hubs or check them making sure they are locking right,if they are got to the transfercase you may have the problem there.

Yes, you need a new shift solenoid, which is under the pan, between the valve body and the transmission.

Yes, I think it could be an ignition coil or module.

The coil is a common problem to go bad.

I've had 2 of them go bad on my 1990 Cadillac Deville since I've owned it in 2006.

I know you have a Ford, though.

Sounds like you have been busy changing lots of sensor and ignition parts on this truck.

Good luck on this repair.

It should be mounted at the back of the transmission, near the tailshaft. You should see a vacuum hose connected to it.

On most vehicles they are now located on the turn signal lever at the steering column; activated with a pull.

Approximately 12-14 quarts

It probably is the steering gear box.

Sounds like master cylinder

Check all of the brakes, Locking up is sometimes the GOOD brake. Look for frozen calipers or wheel cylinders, and fluid leaks.

This depends on whether it is the problem with the switch, the relay or the solenoids that depends on the fix....are you electrically minded.........if yes.....we can help you....if not, and wiring is unusual territory for you...then i suggest you take it to a auto-electricain to help you diagnose

try loosening the injector lines a little then crank it.it probably has air in the lines and wont blow through the injectors,once fuel comes out while cranking,tighten them,if this is the problem it should start but run rough untill the lines are tight,it shouldnt hurt much to get a little fuel on the engine

1992-1994 are virtually identical, but 1987-91 are pretty close as well. 1995-96(7)

if the frame isnt rusted out to the point of failure, I would just replace the body panels, and cab. cabs from 87-96 are close enough to swap pretty easily, 1980-86 will work too with a little more work. beds 1987-96(7) are identical, 1980-86 will bolt up, but wheelwells are styled different. fenders doors ect are easily available from body shop supply or lmctruck.com

I think you are on the right track about a vacuum leak. I would check all those pesky little rubber vacuum hoses that are used for pollution control. They tend to go hard and split if they are over 10 years old, allowing air /vacuum leaks into the inlet manifold which upsets things that are controlled by vacuum such as the vacuum modulator on the transmission. As for the mushy brakes you may still have an air lock in the hydraulic system which would need a complete bleed to fix.

Thankfully for you that your truck is old enough to not care about a cat. But if you do live in an emissions state then i would encourage you not to for you may fail inspection. However, you can also buy a high flow cat and get almost the same results as not having one at all.

I Very STRONGLY advise NOT to BYPASS it!!!!!!!!If you are only doing so to test switch ?It is a normally open circuit.
Pressing the clutch closes the contacts.
I would advise you to replace it with a new switch just in case someone who isnt aware should start truck !!!
If your luck is like mine you would be the one who ends up bleeding before it was over.lol

the battery you charged may have 12v+ but if they didnt check with a load it may have a short internally so cranking amps will drop check your connections make your grounds are clean and tight from there if load test is good on battery and grounds are good starter may be bad.