20 Most Recent 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab - Page 2 Questions & Answers

The only ones that are actually codes are the "U" codes. The other designation is a communication protocol. Those codes are network communication codes and indicate there is a problem with modules communicating with each other. This is a highly technical diagnosis that you will not be equipped for.

When does it stop running? 5, 10, 15 minutes or miles? Remove the O2 sensor before the catalytic converter. If it stays running. Replace the cat/s.

Bank 1 is always the same side of the engine as the number 1 cylinder. Bank 2 is always the other side of the engine. Sensor 1 is always before the catalytic converter. Sensor 2 is always after the catalytic converter. Cylinder 1 is on the passenger side on a 5.4 liter. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Check all grounds, remove and clean even if they are tight. Sounds like a poor ground issue.

Stainless steel slipper replacement is mandatory with the service brake pad installation, even if the slippers appear undamaged. Make sure the slippers are correctly positioned with the slipper ends snug against the outboard end of the anchor plate rail. http://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/Mazda/--Repair%20Instructions--/2001-2007%20Maza%20B23/MAZDA_B23_01-07_Ch9_Brake_Pads.htm

Try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, then maybe the computer will relearn the correct fuel level.

Do mean you have hard time communicating with a scanner at the OBDII connector, if so make sure you power at pin16 at diagnostic connector, also we have seen issue with glowplugs not working properly causing hard start when cold and starts fine after warm-up
You can check for glowplugs operation at initial key-of before cranking by checking for voltage at each glowplug connector with a multimeter.

sorry to say ur high pressure oil pump is going bad!

Had the same problem. There was a recall on the crank positioner. ford change it out. truck fired right up. took about 15minutes. no change to me.

Do you have mechanical-shift four wheel drive,or electronic-shift, 4WD system ? Any lights lit on the dash ? The electronic-shift, 4WD system consists of the following components:

• Transfer case (For transfer case repair procedures, refer to Section 308-07B ).
• 4WD control module (For 4WD control module installation, refer to 4WD control module in this section.)
• Mode select switch (MSS)
• Gearmotor encoder assembly
• Automatic locking hubs (hub locks)
• Pulse vacuum hub lock (PVH) solenoid and vacuum lines
• The mechanical-shift four wheel drive (4WD) system consists of the following components:
• Transfer case (For transfer case repair procedures, refer to Section 308-07B ).
• Transfer case shift lever
• Manual locking hubs
• 4x4 indicators
• Shift linkage (hub locks)

Most common problem is a vacuum leak to the hubs. Check the lines from the vacuum pulsating solenoid all the way down to each hub connection. If the lines are good,use a vacuum pump to apply vacuum to the hub with the line removed. You should hear a slight click at about 5 inches of vacuum if the hub seals are good(test both hubs individually). Just one bad seal in either hub can cause the entire system to malfunction.

probly hav a wiring issue--also chec fuses and relays--inspec fuel pressure regulator in engine area--try to get a diagnostic scan from a mobile mech--a haynes manual is a must for detailed troublshootn

Here are some good causes and its worth to take in consideration:
Clogged fuel filter?
Insufficient fuel pressure due to a faulty fuel pump?
MAF sensor?
Catalityc converter?
ECU module?
does the CHECK ENGINE show up?
Get back to me.

without looking at this that is what it sounds like, or their may just be a bad connection.... maybe unplug the ecu and check the connection for corrosion and crud between plug and unit...

The reason for the imbalance is
First car mind
Second line of Aerosols in the mind
Thirdly carrier movement does not work correctly is the same flaw I

stop at napa and pick some up and i will come over and install it for you (you will also need a little vaseline )

You actually have enough power to operate the locks, but you have a bad actuator. I'm not sure where the actuator is on your truck, but go for the actuator getting replaced and you are good to go.

FUSE BLOCK / FUSES ARE BLOWNING // HAVE A SERIOUS SHORT CIRCUIT SOMEWHERE.. A MUST TRACK DOWN SHORT.. BAD WIRE SOMEWHERE AROUND THE HOT..

BAD TRANNY.. BUT FIRST HAVE THE FILTER AND FLUID CHANGED.. ALSO THE FILTER UP IN THE VERY FRONT FOR THE TRANNY ALSO.. AUTOMATIC TRANNYS HAS 2 FILTERS.. COULD BE CLOGGED FILTERS HOW LONG HAS IT BEEN SINCE THE TRANNY BEEN SRV??

ITS IN THE VALLEY OF ENGINE. ITS A BIG ROUND BLOCK AND HAS BIG HEAVY DUTY WIRES GOING AND COMING OFF IT.. HEADING DOWN. OR YOU CAN TRACE THE WIRE BACK UP TO IT..