2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

One thing could be low oil in the HPOP high pressure oil pump. Small Allen plug on top is where to add oil

What large square fuse ? The 4X4 switch get's it's B+ voltage from the four - wheel drive control module . computer controlled ! Has two relay's - transfercase hi to low & low to high ,located in the Auxiliary relay box #3 . location left side of radiator core support . Your best bet ,take it to a qualified repair shop that has a diagnostic tool that can communicate with the 4X4 control module . Read code's ! Probably has a code like one of these P1812 Transmission 4-Wheel Drive Mode Select Circuit Failure 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test D . P1815 Transmission 4-Wheel Drive Mode Select Short Circuit to Ground 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test A . But code have a few others as well . B2105 Throttle Position Input Out of Range Low 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test B . B2106 Throttle Position Input Out of Range High 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test B . C1728 Transfer Case Unable to Transition Between 2H and 4H. 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test C . C1729 Transfer Case Unable to Transition Between 4WD HIGH and 4WD LOW 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test D . C1979 IWE Solenoid Circuit Failure 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test F . C1980 IWE Solenoid Short to Battery 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test F . P1812 Transmission 4-Wheel Drive Mode Select Circuit Failure 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test D . P1815 Transmission 4-Wheel Drive Mode Select Short Circuit to Ground 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test A . P1824 Transmission 4-Wheel Drive Clutch Relay Circuit Failure 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test A . P1826 Transmission 4-Wheel Drive Low Clutch Relay Short Circuit to Battery 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test A . P1827 Transmission 4-Wheel Drive Low Clutch Relay Short Circuit to Ground 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test A . P1849 Transmission Transfer Case Contact Plate A Short Circuit to Ground 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test D . P1853 Transmission Transfer Case Contact Plate B Short Circuit to Ground 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test D . P1857 Transmission Transfer Case Contact Plate C Short Circuit to Ground 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test D . P1861 Transmission Transfer Case Contact Plate D Short Circuit to Ground 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test D . P1867 Transmission Transfer Case Contact Plate General Circuit Failure 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test D . P1891 Transmission Transfer Case Contact Plate Ground Return Open Circuit 4WD control module Go To Pinpoint Test D .

Are you getting white smoke or no smoke from the exhaust after failed start attempts? When the FICM was replaced, did Ford check the glow plugs and injectors for proper operation? Are you using an engine oil heating element or is the engine dead cold when this happens? How long does the engine run the first and second start attempts before it stalls and dies?

check the vacuum switch and lines...

This sounds like the idle control valve or stepper motor as it's sometimes called needing a good clean out or replacement. When faulty this would cause all the symptoms you are describing.

fix the plug,car or trailer, and check the wiring and bulb sockets in the trailer bigger fuses are equal to burnt wiring harness or fires in either vehicle

replace your stop light switch its on the brake pedal

There is a glow plug timer that can fail.

Absolutely! There's a fuse that controls every light on your truck. Some share the same circuit, some don't. Consult your manual. If you don't have one, get one - you will need it repeatedly.

Hi Amy, The link below is a short youtube video on how to fix your transmission... I hope this helps.......CHEERS.. Fixing Transmission That Slips And Clunks

Apply power to the small "S" terminal.

The switches that control the lights for open doors are made right into the door latches and they have a history of sticking and causing problems like that. Here is a technique that often works well and eliminates the problem at no cost. Get a can of spray lube like WD40 or something like it and has a straw on the nozzle. Spray it generously up into the latch mechanism. Now open and close the door numerous times to work it in. Repeat this process several times. Since you don't really know which door is causing the problem, you should do all of them. It's usually caused by the most frequently used door but it's not guaranteed to be that one.

That sounds like a security system is activated. Somebody has probably disabled the siren.

The only ones that are actually codes are the "U" codes. The other designation is a communication protocol. Those codes are network communication codes and indicate there is a problem with modules communicating with each other. This is a highly technical diagnosis that you will not be equipped for.

Built in the wiper motor.. See the other post.

When does it stop running? 5, 10, 15 minutes or miles? Remove the O2 sensor before the catalytic converter. If it stays running. Replace the cat/s.

Bank 1 is always the same side of the engine as the number 1 cylinder. Bank 2 is always the other side of the engine. Sensor 1 is always before the catalytic converter. Sensor 2 is always after the catalytic converter. Cylinder 1 is on the passenger side on a 5.4 liter. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Check all grounds, remove and clean even if they are tight. Sounds like a poor ground issue.

Stainless steel slipper replacement is mandatory with the service brake pad installation, even if the slippers appear undamaged. Make sure the slippers are correctly positioned with the slipper ends snug against the outboard end of the anchor plate rail. http://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/Mazda/--Repair%20Instructions--/2001-2007%20Maza%20B23/MAZDA_B23_01-07_Ch9_Brake_Pads.htm

Do mean you have hard time communicating with a scanner at the OBDII connector, if so make sure you power at pin16 at diagnostic connector, also we have seen issue with glowplugs not working properly causing hard start when cold and starts fine after warm-up
You can check for glowplugs operation at initial key-of before cranking by checking for voltage at each glowplug connector with a multimeter.