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1981 Ford F 100 - Page 6 Questions & Answers
My '81 Ford F100 keeps
The voltage regulator can be internal-inside alt. or external-on fender well usaully but the fact that you are able to have batt power to crank engine- which takes alot more than just running, does not lead me to believe that batt is low or alt. not charging. If it has carburator, open idle mixture screws 1/2 turn, if fuel injected possible idle air control motor (IAC) motor at throttle body is bad. I thought those engines were still carburated though.
I just bought a 1981 ford f100. Ran fine for a
Pull off the head and replace the head gasket and check for a warped head, and shave if necessary at the machine shop.
Hopefully there isn't a cracked block.
If antifreeze is in the oil, that's indeed a telltale sign of leakage between the oil passageways and the cooling system.
Maybe if the leak isn't too bad, try some cylinder head gasket seal from Barrs Leak, but I wouldn't get my hopes too high on that one since it only costs about $30 for that repair option, and it doesn't work on larger leaks.
1968 F100 - Cleveland 8cyl - fuel not flowing from
Either the fuel filter is blocked or the mechanical fuel pump is defective or diaphram is ripped in the fuel pump. Usually the filter is on the passenger frame rail or near the fire wall. The pump is lower front side of engine, follow the fuel lines. Good luck!
My truck starter seems to run but does not crank
are you sure you got a good solenoid?souds like it's not kicking the starter bendix out for the start.if it hums that means it's turning right? it has to be the solenoid not kicking the starter bendix into the flywheel to start the engine.i would try another solenoid. thank you for choosing fixya.com
Soleniod failed, grandson rigged it to start,
I would be looking at the ignition switch,or the neutral safety switch,be sure the solenoid is hooked up correctly first.Then check to see if the small wire to the solenoid has 12 volts on it when trying to start the engine,if it does not,have 12 volts on this wire,check the neutral safty switch,and if it is fine,replace the ignition switch.
I need to remove the entire ignition assembly from
the wires/plug should just pull off, there may be a latch on the plug to keep it form just 'falling" off. . If you insert the key, then take a paper clip and insert it into the hole, turn the key/cylinder will come out, then you can unscrew the ring and take out the switch.
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