20 Most Recent 1981 Ford F 100 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Yes,they do,but a 81 does not have points

I would suspect there is dirt in the idle system, did you blow the jets and passages out with compressed air.

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Test for power at the solenoid on both sides while holding the ignition in the crank position, you should have 12 volts on both sides. If not then verify voltage to the solenoid from the battery , if no volts then verify the battery connection at the battery , by testing voltage on the battery post not the battery cable if voltage is ok then the cable needs replaced between the battery and the solenoid.

Yes and No

Yes if you the knowledge of welding gussets for the larger bushings it takes.
No if you do not have a welder and the materials to make your own new parts to attach

i had a '71 dodge with three-on-the-tree that experienced binding and the only way to fix it is to replace worn parts. as for the lights, find out which connetor supplies power. perhaps it is faulty or loose. also, there may be a separate fuse located on or near the instument cluster specifically for that application.

The F100 ended in 1983, so there is some confusion on your 1987 Ford F100. The F150 started in 1983 and was available in 1987, but not the F100. You have this listed under the 1981 Ford F100 category.
The 300 CID = 4.9L In-Line (Straight) 6-Cylinder.
In order to best answer your question I have included both the 1981 F100 4.9L and 1987 F150 4.9L below. The only difference is with the Distributor Cap Configuration and Connections.

For the 1981 F100 300cid=4.9L:
Firing order:
1-5-3-6-2-4
Cylinders:
(back)
...6
...5
...4
...3
...2
...1
(front)
Distributor:
...(back)
.........4..[.]-clip
2
...................1
6
................5
[.]....3

For the 1987 F150 300cid=4.9L:
Firing Order:
1-5-3-6-2-4
Cylinders:
(back)
..6
..5
..4
..3
..2
..1
(front)
Distributor:
.......(back)
.................4
.....2
[.]
.......................1
..6
.........................[.]-clip
....................5
.......3
.........(front)

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An easy way is to remove the air cleaner off the carb, and give the top of the carb a couple sharp taps with a small hammer or a heavy screwdriver.. sometimes you can simply loosen the needle valve and float up this way.
You may need to take the top of the carb off. The float and needle valve work together to stop the flow of fuel into the carb. You want to check to see if the float is not full of fuel.. if it is , then it's got a leak and should be replaced... spray the needle valve and seat with carb cleaner spray to remove any build up.. And as long as the carb bowl is exposed, clean the basin out as well.

this is the way i do all my cars and trucks
take off the coil wire and the dist cap, take out #1 plug
have someone help you, place your finger over #1 plug hole but not in the cylinder but over it,
have your helper tunk the key and turn over the motor just a tunk as in maybe 1/8 of a turn keep tunking it until the compression pushes out your finger your at #1 so look at the rotor button of where it is pointing and mark it on the dist then put the cap back on and place #1 plug wire on the post where you marked it

Have your oil pressure checked, Is the engine clean inside, if its gunked up, the oil pickup tube could be clogged.

Check the brake switch on the back of the brake pedal up behind the dash it should have to wires going to it and will be about 2 1/2 inchs long and threaded. one end will hit the brake pedal on the back side it will look like this >L where the arrow points you will see the switch it will have a quick disconnect on the back of it, and if you take a paper clip and install on the back side intot he wire harness quick disconnet swith look to see if the brake lights are on. If they are on then the switch is bad. to replace it has a half inch lock nut you can back off 1/4 turn then unscrew it out any parts store will carry it. It lists for 14.95 it could be the turn signal switch too. Now this is assuming you checked the fuses also this has two buttons on it and it may be the plug is loose. here is the web page the brake switch is at the bottom and the turn signal switch is about midway. This has a picture with it and price as well. Thanks for using fix-ya http://www.jcwhitney.com/switches/c1643j1s17.jcwx

nah - all you need is a q-tip, a pair of pliers and some WD-40 - not 90W. Little mspront - hapy changing tho

If your truck has a hydraulic clutch it will have an extra reservoir, near the brake fluid reservoir, and the clutch side uses brake fluid also. Your problem I think, is that you are low on fluid. That can cause the problem you describe. Look for this extra reservoir and check it for low fluid, it may be dirty but should have full / low mark on the side.

original engine could have been a 302/351/460 im pretty sure you wont have to swap transmissions