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1989 Ford F 250 - Page 6 Questions & Answers
Lights are going bright and dim while car is
Sounds like the age old bad earth (ground) check all the earth (Black) connections large and small that are connected to your battery and especially the ones going to the body and engine. That's your quick start, it could also be a fault with your alternator voltage control regulator, (this can get damaged when jump starting yours or other vehicles) if it is that, then unless you know where you can get alternator parts you will have to buy a new one or get one from a scrap yard (car dismantler). presumably there is nothing wrong with your battery and its not one you have to keep charging up (if you do then it could also be a bad battery) try borrowing one if you can to just to check out if the problem is still happening.
No spark out of coil have spark to primary side ol
First test the coils:--
Remove the large wire from the center of the coil by pulling it straight out of the coil. Remove the retaining nuts and all the wires attached to the side terminals on the coil as well.Place the test leads from the ohmmeter on the side terminals, one on each side. It does not matter which lead goes where in this case. Note the reading on the meter. This is the primary resistance, and it should read between .4 and 2 ohms on your Ford coil.Move the test lead from the negative post on the coil to the center terminal where the large wire was removed. Keep the other lead on the positive post of the coil. Note the resistance reading on the ohmmeter. Your coil should have a reading of between 6,000 and 15,000 ohms for your Ford.Replace the coil with a new one if the readings are outside either of these ranges, as that would indicate a defective coil. If the readings are within range, reinstall the wires and retaining nuts on the side posts, being sure that they go back on in the same position they were in before you removed them.If the coils checked ok, then it can be spark plug itself faulty,
Put spark tester on coil and see if it sparks or not.Or only sparks once when just ignition is turned on.If yes then spark plugs is not the problem ,then its problem with ignition module, but if ignition module is tested ok or already replaced, then its distributor problem.
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Other than that check the TACH wire for gounding out someplace, this will also kill the spark. Both TACH wire and BATTery wire should have power when the key is in the run and start position.---------Disconnect ignition coil wire from distributor, and connect spark tester to coil wire and engine ground. Spark Tester Hook-Up for Run Circuits Check Spark should occur at tester, when lead is touched to battery positive terminal. Turn ignition switch to RUN position, and touch diagnostic adapter lead to positive battery terminal. Sparks should occur at tester gap each time lead touches battery terminal.---------
If not the problem is distributor.--------- Getting this possibilities checked will help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Ter89 ford f250 battery meter
Start the engine and give it a bit of high revs while you test the battery connection polarities with an dc volt meter. Normally you should get a higher voltage reading when the engine is running on high revs. If not then you may have a problem from the alternator onwards somewhere on the line. Hope this helps. If you have any question please do not hesitate to contact me before you leave a rating.
I have a 1989 f250,
the injection pump has bit the big one.. The metering valve is stuck in it and there maybe other parts stuck as well. Suggest replacing the IP
I have a 1989 ford f 250 302 efi im having a
Up until 1989, EFI fuel systems in the F250 actually used two fuel pumps; a low-pressure pump in the tank and a high-pressure pump mounted on the frame.
High Pressure Pump
The part on the fuel rail you are referring to is most likely the fuel pressure regulator, which, if bad can also cause fuel delivery problems. From 1990 and up, the two pump system was replaced with a single, in-tank pump.
Hope this info helps you out!
89 ford f250 pickup with
replace the fuel filters sometimes little particals get into them and clog the fillter after a few mins running it then blocks the opening and strarves the engine for fuel
Just replaced the external fuel pump and the
CHECK YOUR FUEL PUMP RELAY, SOMETIMES WHEN THEY WEAR OUT THEY SHUT DOWN AFTER A FEW MINUTES... YOU CAN USE A JUMPER WIRE TO BYPASS IT AND SEE IF IT KEEPS RUNNING, IF SO THERE YOU GO... GOOD LUCK!
My 1989 ford f250 7.3
Injectors would likely have an effect on the engine's running across the spectrum. The white smoke is unburned fuel. You could have a problem with the Injector Control Module but it sounds almost like a lack of compression.
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