20 Most Recent 1989 Ford F 250 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Check the clutch plate. It is worn out. Have it changed. As you are going to get the gear box opened, to change the clutch plate check the gears and see that they are not worn out. Also check the functioning of fuel pump before you open the gear box. Probably it is not pumping enough fuel when the power is required.

all fuel injected vehicles have an electric fuel pump inside the fuel tank.On ford F250 there is 2 ,one in each fuel tank

There is a lot of things that can be causing that, the check engine light is usually associated with the sensors and Cadalliic converter. I would wait until it came on to stay then check for problems. If it bugs you put a piece of tape over it. That doesn't go for the oil or temp light just 'check engine'. It's a FORD it will keep going when all the rest quit. Got 47 years of Fords behind me, wouldn't have anything else. dhgill1949

This is probably an engine using a carburetor. If it starts and idles good and dies when the accelerator is pressed it is probably the accelerator pump on the carburetor. The accelerator pump supplies the fuel to operate the engine in this transition period from idle to part throttle until the venturi effect catches up to draw the necessary fuel the engine needs to continue running at the current demanded rate of speed. If the butterflies are opened and there is not sufficient fuel squirted into the engine when larger amounts of air are in demand it starves for fuel and thus stalls.If it is fuel injected then you have other problems, but my guess is it is a carburetor version. Ford went to fuel injection in 1990. You can just purchase the power valve if needed. You don't need the complete kit. Good luck

Make sure u have the right fuel presure? i replaced efi motors done something, fuel pressure was the problem.

Clutch or throwout bearing may be gone!

Should be on the clutch pedal rod i believe

There could be 3 things that may have caused the problem. It could be the speed sensor itself. Chck it out for loose connection or you may have to replace it. Another is the wiring, check for exposed conductor or loose wires. Usually you have 3 wires connected to it. Last is the actual gauge.
Most likely it is the speed sensor that is the problem because it is normally the first one that would go out. Unless you have an oscilloscope or a tester to check for the pulse, the best thing is to swap it with a known working one. Someone you know perhaps with the same model.

the filter is located approx under the driver on the inside of the frame rail, I think you have plastic fuel line retaining clips in this year, so no tool required. see photo

check the fusible link or links on starter and soliniod

It could be one of a few things.

1. I would check my linkage to make sure the adjustments are proper. (you could be putting the truck in drive but it is actually in low gear) The easy way to check is to get under the truck, and watch the linkage on the side of the tranny while someone is in the truck moving the lever to drive and watching that the linkage is correct.

2. If that is ok, then replace the modulator switch.

3. If these don't work you have a problem internally in the transmission.

I would suggest the Equalizer valve for the Twin tanks has failed. Track the fuel supply and return lines to locate its position.
Regards,DT

Hello, For the brake pedal it can be a Master cylinder problem. You would need to replace the Master Cylinder and flush the brakelines as the lines may be full of rust. It would not hurt to check your brakelines for signs of staining and wet spots.

The clutch on your model may have a return spring that is missing or weak. There is also spring tension on the throw-out bearing. You may need to adjust the clutch linkage to compensate for wear on the clutch disc. You want to adjust the freeplay so there is 1/4 to 1/2 inches of freeplay before the throwout bearing is touched.

Also check your pivot points for the pedal levers under the dash. Check your transmisson and motor mounts for movement which could cause binding. When you adjust the clutch there may be an Interlock switch for the starting circuit. Make sure this switch is working freely and that the clutch pedals' return is not held back because of this switch.

That about covers everything that moves on those two pedals. I hope my solutions are very helpful and you get your truck fixed.

On F-series, the Inertia Switch is located at the far Left part of the toe-board,for the 88-89 years

IF IT IS IN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, YOU'LL NEED TO REMOVE THE INTAKE, AND BLOW IT OUT WITH AIR, THEN CLEAN IT, LET IT DRY, AND PUT IT BACK ON! IF IT IS JUST THE AIR INTAKE, YOU CAN USE A RAG TO COVER INTAKE PORT, AND BLOW IT OUT WITH AIR!

make sure you didnt blow main fuse

SOME HAVE A SMALL HOLE IN OUTER SWITCH! YOU HAVE TO USE A SMALL HARD WIRE TO UNLOCK THIS SO YOU CAN REMOVE THE OUTER PART, AND THE COLUMN COVER! ONCE INSIDE, THERE WILL BE EITHER TWO BOLTS, OR RIVETS HOLDING THE IGNITION SWITCH TO THE COLUMN! USUALLY TWO BOLTS! REMOVE THOSE, AND UNPLUG THE SWITCH! SOME ARE SET UP WHERE YOU CAN REMOVE THE COLUMN AROUND THE SWITCH! IF THIS IS THE CASE, REMOVE THE COLUMN, AND UNBOLT THE SWITCH AS BEFORE!

if you have dual tanks,then that's the cover to a secondary fuel pump{electrical} under drivers door? yes if so. that's the secondary fuel pump to the engine if you have dual tanks.remove the metal cover and you should see the secondary electric fuel pump. if the trucks not running right,then that may be your issue.hope this helps,thank you for choosing fixya.com

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