Top 20 1989 Ford F 250 Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity, maker. Question moved to sub category. More likely to be the Blend Door Actuators https://www.google.com/search?q=1989+ford+f250+heater+blend+door+actuator+location ..

1. The ignition system on your 5.0L uses a distributor type system and will include the following components:
   1. Ignition control module (ICM). Depending on the year of your specific Ford, it'll have a inner-fender mounted ignition control module or a distributor mounted ignition control module. hot sure which you have.
   2. Ignition coil. you replaced it.
   3. PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor. This is Ford's name for the crank sensor and is mounted inside the distributor. The most common name for this component is the pick up coil.
   4. Distributor cap and rotor. you replaced
   5. Spark plug wires. you replaced.
2. The thing to keep in mind about the ignition system is that all engine cylinders must get spark and the one thing that will stop the ignition system from creating spark on a wholesale scale is a BAD crank sensor.Have you pulled a plug then using some insulated pliers grounded it to the vehicle and turned it over to see if you have spark, that'll tell you alot.takes two people of course.Best of luck and hope this helps.

Must be a fuel problem, since you are getting spark. Can you hear the pump turn on when you turn the key to on? I would check the injector circuit, and if it is working, have the fuel pressure checked-might be too low from a weak or tired pump. The injectors have a hot wire to them-always hot with key in on position. There's also a fuse for the injectors, as well as a fuse for the fuel pump. The ground wire from injectors goes into the engine computer so it can control injector pulse. A tester called a "noid light" can be used to check the injector circuit. Just plug it into the injector connector and crank the engine over. If the noid light is blinking, the circuit is working right.

Could be a dealer part. Kind of odd that working on fuel system would cause this problem.

There is a fuel pump reset switch under the dash near the lower heat ducts at the floor.i think on the drivers side but it has been a long time since i done this.

Was it knocking in the radiator when it over heated if so you most likely got an air lock in the system by pouring the new antifreeze in to fast. You need to add it real slow and once you think the radiator is full start the truck and let it warm up and leave the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens and then add more antifreeze because when the stat opens the level will go lower. Once you are sure the antifreeze is circulating an full then you can go drive the truck. Some people use a 50 percent mix of antifreeze to water but I always use 100 percent antifreeze it runs cooler.

I have run into this before and it was the MLP sensor on the transmission. Manual Level Position Sensor.

YouTube will show you a video

Two heavy gage red wires one from the battery the side goes to the starter . The other is red with a light blue stripe ( small gage wire) Goes to small terminal . Starter solenoid located on inner fender ,engine compartment , not on top of starter ? You can go to www.bbbind.com/ for free wiring diagrams . On the home page click on technical information five box will come up . Click on tsb's an free wiring diagrams . On the next page go to bottom an click on I agree . Next page click wiring diagrams an then enter your vehicle make, model ,year , engine size. Then under system click on engine , then subsystem click on starting ,then click search . Then click on the blue links one at a time . Do you know how to read a wiring diagram ? At the top you can zoom in closer an on the sides click on the arrows to expand the diagram right an left . The first diagram if you look on the left side near the battery you will see the starter relay has three wires going to it. Good luck hope this helps >

Brake Light Switch removal testing and repair

Hello Sam, I think you have a problem with your fuel solenoid valve that switches from front tank to the rear . I do know that Ford dealer has a recall on '93 F-150 like mine. I'm not sure about yours.

ford starters are problem starters when hot as the resistance in the windings is affected by heat. One answer is to get a heat shield and place it between the starter and the heat source ( ford spare part). The other solution is to buy a high performance starter ( used for high hp engines) as these are not affected the same as the standard starter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=071sDEBUODQ

Not really a car repair question, but its about 95 miles between the two points, so half way would somewhere around Oceanside.

They are usually next to the radiator on the passenger side.

under / behind your glove box ....... F150 cabin filter install wmv

If charging light is on, it means some thing in the charging system is going bad. use a test light!-- battery voltage at battery when truck is off should be at least 12.6 or better, if alternator was charging good. if less than 12.4 and it is charging ok. battery is going bad. when engine is running, at the battery there should be at least 13.8 to 14.2 volts or better.if alternator is ok, all checks are done at the battery posts to determine voltage. Hope this helps you out! if less than 13.8 or lower while running. alt, is bad.

Check for an impact switch they had one on cars these years,It cut fuel pump and ECM, see in your operating manuel where they put it, you had to push on the red button whith your finger to recet it It is hiden in the body somewhere, could be your problem,we use to bang the fender to make it trip for a joke

No, not a relay. The ignition switch is too central to the electrical system. It sends power out to most circuits on the vehicle-those that are designated "hot in accessory, run, start" or some that are only "hot in run or start". Being central, it requires a direct battery source, a "hot at all times" source. Anytime the battery is hooked up, the yellow wire to the ignition switch is a hot wire (actually 2 yellow wires-they splice off before entering the switch or before entering the electrical connector for the switch). The source is Fusible Link M on the starter relay, one of many Fusible Links there, and tied in with the positive battery cable connection. So also, the alternator link is there, so is the headlight switch, the hazard and brake lights Fusible Link, and some others that do supply relays (fuel pump, eec relay, etc.). But Fuse Link M is dedicated to only the ignition switch. If you have no power at the connection to the switch, look at fuse link M. It should have some identifying legend or mark. Where you saw the sparks, was it at the switch itself or the electrical connector to it? Either way you will have to check. If at the switch, It could be a bad switch, and may have also blew out the fusible link. If at the connector, check if it damaged the connector and is losing contact. Post back with what you find. Good luck.

This should be in the owner's manual. I found the below on autozone.com, their repair help location: An inertia switch is used as a safety device in the fuel system. The inertia switch is located in the cab, generally under the dashboard on the right side. It is designed to open the fuel pump power circuit in the event of a collision. The switch is reset by pushing each of 2 buttons on the switch simultaneously (some models use switches with only one reset button). The inertia switch should not be reset until the fuel system has been inspected for damage or leaks. When the ignition switch is ON , it turns the EEC power relay ON . The EEC power relay provides power to the powertrain control module (PCM) and the control side of the fuel pump relay. Power for the fuel pump(s) is supplied through a fuse link or high current fuse attached to the starter solenoid (battery side). From the fuse link or high current fuse, current flows through the fuel pump relay and inertia switch to the fuel pump(s). The fuel pump relay is controlled by the PCM. When the ignition switch is turned ON , the fuel pump(s) will operate. If the ignition switch is not turned to the START position the PCM will shut the fuel pump(s) OFF after 1 second. The PCM will operate the fuel pump(s) operate the fuel pump(s) when the ignition switch is turn to START position to provide fuel while cranking. After the engine starts, the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump(s) unless the engine stops, drops below 120 rpm or the inertia switch is tripped.