1989 Ford F 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sounds like your fan blade clutch has seized up. This causes the fan to run @ engine speed @ all times. If thats not it I'll need more information

If your ignition switch is bad in your steering column, and the starter does not engage when the key is turned forward, then this is a quick fix for you.
BE SURE THE BATTERY IS DISCONECTED BEFORE YOU START WIRING. You can run some heave gauge (18 plus, and about 12 feet of it) wire to the top mount and the rear mount on the starter solenoid (one end of the wire to each, making a loop) Run the wire into the interior of the truck, and then install a toggle switch in the loop of wire. You will still have to turn on the key to engage the motor, but it will not start until you flip the toggle. That should get you by until you can replace the ignition switch in the column.

Question edited for clarity, maker. Question moved to sub category. More likely to be the Blend Door Actuators https://www.google.com/search?q=1989+ford+f250+heater+blend+door+actuator+location ..

1. The ignition system on your 5.0L uses a distributor type system and will include the following components:
   1. Ignition control module (ICM). Depending on the year of your specific Ford, it'll have a inner-fender mounted ignition control module or a distributor mounted ignition control module. hot sure which you have.
   2. Ignition coil. you replaced it.
   3. PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor. This is Ford's name for the crank sensor and is mounted inside the distributor. The most common name for this component is the pick up coil.
   4. Distributor cap and rotor. you replaced
   5. Spark plug wires. you replaced.
2. The thing to keep in mind about the ignition system is that all engine cylinders must get spark and the one thing that will stop the ignition system from creating spark on a wholesale scale is a BAD crank sensor.Have you pulled a plug then using some insulated pliers grounded it to the vehicle and turned it over to see if you have spark, that'll tell you alot.takes two people of course.Best of luck and hope this helps.

Must be a fuel problem, since you are getting spark. Can you hear the pump turn on when you turn the key to on? I would check the injector circuit, and if it is working, have the fuel pressure checked-might be too low from a weak or tired pump. The injectors have a hot wire to them-always hot with key in on position. There's also a fuse for the injectors, as well as a fuse for the fuel pump. The ground wire from injectors goes into the engine computer so it can control injector pulse. A tester called a "noid light" can be used to check the injector circuit. Just plug it into the injector connector and crank the engine over. If the noid light is blinking, the circuit is working right.

Could be a dealer part. Kind of odd that working on fuel system would cause this problem.

There is a fuel pump reset switch under the dash near the lower heat ducts at the floor.i think on the drivers side but it has been a long time since i done this.

Was it knocking in the radiator when it over heated if so you most likely got an air lock in the system by pouring the new antifreeze in to fast. You need to add it real slow and once you think the radiator is full start the truck and let it warm up and leave the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens and then add more antifreeze because when the stat opens the level will go lower. Once you are sure the antifreeze is circulating an full then you can go drive the truck. Some people use a 50 percent mix of antifreeze to water but I always use 100 percent antifreeze it runs cooler.

I have run into this before and it was the MLP sensor on the transmission. Manual Level Position Sensor.

They are usually next to the radiator on the passenger side.

YouTube will show you a video

Two heavy gage red wires one from the battery the side goes to the starter . The other is red with a light blue stripe ( small gage wire) Goes to small terminal . Starter solenoid located on inner fender ,engine compartment , not on top of starter ? You can go to www.bbbind.com/ for free wiring diagrams . On the home page click on technical information five box will come up . Click on tsb's an free wiring diagrams . On the next page go to bottom an click on I agree . Next page click wiring diagrams an then enter your vehicle make, model ,year , engine size. Then under system click on engine , then subsystem click on starting ,then click search . Then click on the blue links one at a time . Do you know how to read a wiring diagram ? At the top you can zoom in closer an on the sides click on the arrows to expand the diagram right an left . The first diagram if you look on the left side near the battery you will see the starter relay has three wires going to it. Good luck hope this helps >

Brake Light Switch removal testing and repair

ford starters are problem starters when hot as the resistance in the windings is affected by heat. One answer is to get a heat shield and place it between the starter and the heat source ( ford spare part). The other solution is to buy a high performance starter ( used for high hp engines) as these are not affected the same as the standard starter.

Hello Sam, I think you have a problem with your fuel solenoid valve that switches from front tank to the rear . I do know that Ford dealer has a recall on '93 F-150 like mine. I'm not sure about yours.

If the old solenoid had a bad short it may have put your new starter out of commission. Have the starter tested-it should still have warranty for repllacement.

the headers are heating up the starter best bet is to install a heat deflector between the starter and the headers, common problem

First of all, was the lock cylinder, the part where your key goes in? Or was it the ignition switch, located on the lower end of your steering column, near your feet? If this is a problem relative to a tilt steering unit, and having to replace a lock cylinder due to a lost key and thus having had to break the lock cylinder out, then yes, you will have to disassemble the column to replace the broken pot metal piece that connects your lock cylinder to your ignition switch on your steering column. These units are tricky and quite difficult to work on, unless you have a lot of patience and a very good mechanical mind or education. Now, if this is merely relative to the replacement of the actual ignition switch located near your feet on the column, then it is much simpler to deal with. Typically the problem that everyone seems to run up against is when they replace the switch, but when they turn the key, the vehicle does not turn over or even try to start. This is just an adjustment of the switch itself. loosen the 2 bolts or nuts slightly so that t is still somewhat tight, and slide the switch in small increments either direction, making certain to tighten them both again after each new slide you make until you are able to start and shut off your vehicle normally. In some cases the long rod running from the lock cylinder to the ignition switch will get bent and not work properly. ?Either et a new onr from a dealership or local wrecking yard. In the first case I addressed concerning the tilt steering column, it is a usually cheaper solution to simply go to your local wrecking yard and purchase another column than it is to have a mechanic repair or rebuild your old one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=071sDEBUODQ

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