Top 10 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab Questions & Answers

Call you local auto recycler and see if they have what your looking for. It may take a few tries at a few places, but you'll find it.

Sorry, that supposed to be under solutions.

There are 2 O2 sensors on your Ford Ranger.  There will be one a foot or two before the catalytic converter and one a foot or two after the converter.  I don't have a diagram but you will only need to look for the identical sensor located up or downstream from the first one that you replaced.

There are two types of clutch actuators. (Mechanical & Hydtraulic)
A. For mechanical type,- Check the clutch cable as
this could be cut from wear and tear. This is easy
to replace. You can find this connected to the
pedal and the clutch lever near the transmission.
B.For hydraulic operated - Check the level of the
hydraulic oil at the cylinder of the hydraulic
actuator under the hood. This actuator is
directly connected to the pushrod driven by the
pedal. If the actuator is leaking, you have buy
a repair kit (Hyraulic clutch repair kit for Ford
Ranger 1994 MOdel.) These items must be
repaired to activate your pedal.

Distributorless Ignition is not adjustable However the Distributor Ignition System is
1 Place Transmission in Park on Manual (Neutral and set Park Brake
2 Ensure all accessories are off AC ,Heater, Radio, ETC...
3Connect an inductive timming light and Tach to the Engine according to manufactures instructions
4 disconnect the single wire inline spout connector or the shorting bar from the double wire spout connector( should be located near hood hinge on fenderwell drivers side small Gray plug with pc of Tape around it ) or near distributor
5 using a pc of yellow chalk laying flat onto the Crankshaft harmonic balancer and marking the entire timing marks area this will make it easier to see the correct timing marks
6 Start engine and bring to normal operating temp.
7 Check Idle speed and adjust if needed this should be non adjustable on your vehicle
8 Check initial timing by aiming the timing light at the marks and pointer.see emissions label under hood for exact timing Specs.
9 if the marks don't line up shut down engine
10 loosen the hold-down bolt on the distributor base but not so much that the distributor turns when assistant restarts the engine
11 restart engine
12 have assistant aim timing light at marks and pointer
13 while holding the distributor Base Shaft with the proper sized wrench at the base or insulated channelocks loosen the hold down bolt and advance or ****** the distributor until the correct timing marks line up.hold in that position while assistant shuts engine off
(NOTE) when retightening the distributor bolt it can have the tendancy to turn the distributor
14 retighten the distributor bolt while holding the shaft firmly to prevent spinning
15have assistant restart engine
16 Verify that the timing marks still line up with pointer if non alignment , readjust using steps 9 thru14 again
17 once it is set correctly and bolt is tight on distributor base shut down engine. Reconnect in-line Spout Connector or reinstall inline spout shorting bar and assure that timing is advancing beyond initial settings by starting the engine and aiming at the timing marks when engine is slightly reved the timing should advance slightly 2-4 degrees maybe more depending on mileage
18 if timing can't be achieved because distriburor was removed you must
1 unhook coil wire
2 remove the #1 Sparkplug verify that the #1 piston is at the top of the compression stroke (must be on top compression stroke) if it isnt have assistant crank engine slightly to get close with coil wire unplugged. DO NOT turn the crankshaft backwards at any time to get piston into position 3 once piston is in position remove the battery cables, remove the distributor cap with wires intact and verify that the rotor cap is at center of the #1 point in the distributor cap if it isn't
4 loosen & remove the distributor bolt
5 lift the distributor only slightly enough to disengage the gear on the shaft from the camshaft gear (NOTE) when letting it back down into the engine it will spin the rotor off of the #1 position so it must be turned far enough to compensate for this turning when it is reinstalled
6 seat the distributor shaft in the hole and reinstall the retainer bolt and tighten then use the steps above to fine tune the timing

hmm ..if you are looking for the low side air conditioner port .. then locate the condenser (thats in front of and looks like the radiator) .. you will notice two tubes going to that ..one is large the other small .. the small tube is the high pressure side .. the large tube is the low pressure side ... follow the large tube back until you find a cap that covers the low pressure port .. thats where you would fill with new refregerant (r134a) .. if you buy r134a, you can also get a filler hose and gage.. that hose will only hook up to the low pressure port ..it wont fit the high pressure port ...

There should be a decal under the hood, 2 or 3 to be exact, vacuum routing, serpentine belt roouting, and a/c info.

On the lean area look for a vacuum leak anything there,like PCV hoses and pull the plug on the EGR is there a difference?Is the valve hot at idle? Now check the rich side pull the hose off the fuel pressure regulator is gas leaking out? MAF cant do this, IAC cant do this ,TPS, If everything checks out no vauum no EGR leak No fuel regulator leak you may have to find out if the 02 sensor is reading the correct bank .Bank one could be on bank two, and bank two can be one bank one,It could be mismatched

TDC is an acronym for Top Dead Center. It is when the piston has reached the very top of its travel and there is nowhere for the piston to go but down. If you align the timing marks on the engine, the piston will be at TDC with the valves on #1 closed.

To position your crankshaft and cam to the correct position, it should be done BEFORE removing the belt if possible. If the belt has already been removed and/or the belt was broken, the same principles apply, but you will have to go about it completely different.

Turn the engine clockwise to align the "O" on the crankshaft pulley with the "O" on the outer timing belt cover.
Remove the plug in the outer timing belt cover and look through the hole. The timing marks on the camshaft pulley should align with the cover pointer. If they do not align, rotate the crankshaft one full revolution and align the "Os" again. They should now align. When every thing is lined up like this, your engine is timed to #1 at TDC and the valves on #1 cylinder will be closed.

Now if the belt has already been removed or if the belt was broken, You may have to temporarily put the outer cover back on. You may have to put it on and take it off several times until you get things lined up. Time the crankshaft "Os" first. It will not matter which rotation you are on if the belt is not installed. (TDC is TDC - the piston doesn't really care where the valves are - that's the camshaft's problem LOL)
After the crank shaft is lined up, turn the camshaft so the timing marks line up with the pointer. Then remove the front cover and install your belt.

After setting the timing belt tensioner, rotate the engine two full turns clockwise and recheck to make sure that all the timing marks still line up. If they do not - repeat the procedure.

I'm assuming that you have checked the battery and it's working correctly - the voltage on it is over 12 volts when disconnected from the car.
When the cables have been put the other way around the current has been extremely high and and it almost surely has damaged the alternator and the wiring itself.
To find out where the damage is located you need to disconnect the alternator and insulate the cables that plug in it, jump the battery from another car that has its engine running and then try to start it. If the engine starts then the alternator is dead, if it doesn't then the wiring has been damaged. If this it the case the entire wiring harness will have to be ripped apart and every wire checked. Or just replace the entire Harness. In either case this is an extremely complicated job that only a repair shop is capable of doing it. It will be expensive.