20 Most Recent 1995 Ford Ranger Supercab Questions & Answers

1991-1994 2.9L and 3.0L Engines Firing Order 1-4-2-5-3-6 1995 And Later 3.0L V-6 With DIS Ignition System Firing Order 1-4-2-5-3-6
4.0L Engines Firing Order: 1-4-2-5-3-6 DIS Ignition System

so did not check all fuses first? and IS. can you be more clear, what works and does not work? electrics failures, we need all that works to not told does, car drive day or night.? (A#1purpose) head lamps brake lamps parking turns radio works heater dash blower works on high. gauge back lamps you meant and are part of PARK. +dimmer. and what does this mean. dash lights you mean the cluster waring lamps are dead like doors open, CEL, brakes, oil, seats belts., etc, be clear . we are blind here can not see your dash.

95 RANGER 2.3L - FOUND BLOWER MOTOR RELAY BAD, LOCATED BEHIND THE PASSENGER SIDE HEADLIGHT

On this website you find fuse box diagram and description for Ford Ranger (1995) https://www.carknowledge.info/ford-ranger-1993-1997-fuse-box-diagram/ https://www.autogenius.info/ford-ranger-1993-1997-fuse-box-diagram/

This is what I have for your horn wiring diagram. The relay has two sides, the switch side,right side in diagram, and the control side, left side in diagram. The control side needs voltage and ground to energize relay, top wire is voltage and bottom wire is ground on that side. My guess is problem with wiring in steering column--clockspring or horn switch. If you unplug relay, use jumper wire on switch side cavities, the horn should sound, if so, the problem is on the control side of relay. Just my opinion.

you cant it hydrolic

You're right - nothing to do with the alternator. Question is, why would those accessories be active with the ignition switch OFF? Perhaps some problem with fuses being active that shouldn't be when the ignition is off.

With a manual tranny, check the clutch pedal position sensor/switch. It should be activated by the clutch pedal arm. So follow the clutch pedal arm up under the dash to find it. You need to lower steering column to get at the ignition switch. I'm not talking about the key cylinder. Any testing make sure the tranny is out of gear and functional parking brake is set. I guess you have already done some testing? Is there a security system? If you need wiring diagram, holler.

https://s24.postimg.org/txs6ka5sl/blend_door.jpg Click on the link. I know you didn't want to remove it, but. I don't know if you could get at it through the glove box cavity? As far as loosening the instrument panel, I'd have to look at it.

sorry but its going to be a big job. you need to remove the gearbox to open up and get to the seals. you could try and use an additive in the gear box, its like oil seal for engine you can get it for engines gear boxes and difs and power steering. it sometimes goes by seek and seal, in older vehicles its quite good. you will need to replace the oil it will need to be done twice to clean it all out so it can get a good seal.. i.e change oil run engine get the gearbox to move for 20 min then change the oil as its warm not hot so let it cool down for 10-20 min then drain. put the seek and seal in and top up with oil and run as normal, check after a few days to see if its worked. usual does.

Look on the right side fender well at the main wiring and you will see a few fuse links,Just look for the one that is swollen or burnt.

Only the 2.3 liter diesel is an interference engine. The 2.3 Liter gas is not an interference engine. I would guess the belt was not installed correctly. The belt broke so the cam was then out of alignment with the crankshaft. Unless you aligned it correctly it will not start. BTW, the belt must be replaced every 60,000 miles. I asume you have the timing cover off, put it back on and set the crankshaft at the 0 mark on the timing cover, remove the cover and don't touch the crank. near the bottom of the cam gear is a protruding piece of plastic with three raised areas, set the cam timing mark at the first pointer, closest to the passenger side . on the back part of the timing cover is a v shaped pointer set the distributor gear mark at the pointer, remove the distributor cap and verify that the rotor is pointing at #1. Loosen both bolts on the tensioner and using a pry bar carefully pry the tensioner away from the distributor gear, tighten the small bolt on the tensioner. install the new belt starting at the crank, then the distributor gear, then the cam, then over the tensioner pulley. loosen the small bolt and the tensioner will adjust automatically. tighten the tensioner bolts and turn the engine over by hand 2 or 3 times and make sure all marks line up ( the cam mark should now be at the center pointer with the crank at 0). I find it handy to paint a reference mark for the crank inside the timing cover.

Go to http://bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams

Blown fuse is more than likely the culprit.

if it is junk why would you contaminate the chev with the parts I would imagine not many parts would be compatible

The coils are fired by the ECM, check all the wires to the ECM from the coils and make sure the signal is getting through and you don't have a wiring issue at the engine firewall connector on the driver side firewall.

it is on right side of firewall if not there sometimes they put it close to battery area,if you look up on internet there is a web site that shows the diagnosis for the relay if you need to do that to verify its bad also check your fuel cut of switch inside cab known as inertia switch,mike

Yes indeed.You want to get the vehicle drive shaft (torque tube) checked for any loose end play... paying particular attention to the "U-joint" area.As bad as you are describing it it sounds like you are really close to dropping your drive shaft...DO NOT work on this yourself if you are not TOTALLY familiar with good jacks... jack stands... wheel chocks and have a level work area available... also keep in mind that while your TRUCK may be in PARK... that is only as stable as your drive-shaft.Don't get between your truck and a hard place until you get that DRIVE-SHAFT fixed... Another hot tip... if you are going to the trouble of removing the drive shaft... replacing both "U-joints" would save money and time in the long run.Be safe... work safe!http://www.rangerforum.com/threads/u-joint-replacement.6756/UN-Edited response via comment line:Oh yes indeed.It appears that the Ranger can come in many different configurations... but the rules of home trouble shooting are to go after the cheap and obvious probabilities FIRST, (loose lug nuts) then on to the rear-end... CV-joints (if you have them)... wheel bearings... finally back up into the transmission.Seriously... look that drive-shaft over:Have an assistant hold one wheel while you move your rear wheel... while you are watching the drive-line... the offending u-joint should reveal itself by showing some free-play. These should be very tight...Perhaps then when you look more closely you will see the HORRIBLE (chocolate) brown color of oxidized iron... ALWAYS an imminent sign of DANGER anywhere on your vehicle.The u-joints can be pretty bad... and the vehicle still run... but once that drive-shaft drops your parts costs will escalate vigorously (assuming everybody survives (my drive-shaft didn't... but mine did NOT warn me (silent failure)).Please do have a look at the URL I posted with my first reply.Be safe!

Replace the wiper motor. they get corroded and do funny things. If you want, pop off the plastic covers and look at the tabs inside. If they are not corroded in half, they can be cleaned and tweeked a bit to give you many more years of use.

Do you have int wipers? If so check the int module its under the dash right side of the steering column I believe. Specifically check the solder joints.