20 Most Recent 1995 Ford Ranger Supercab - Page 6 Questions & Answers

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1995 ford ranger wont come out of park

try disconnecting the rods from the ignition switch shift lever inhibitor.this is basically the mechanism which prevents you from turning the ignition switch to the 'lock' position when the shift lever is not in the 'park' position
1/27/2012 2:56:59 PM • 1995 Ford Ranger... • Answered on Jan 27, 2012
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2answers

A howling noise in the rear end.

The final drive (diff) could be low or out of oil. Have a look around inside of the rear wheels for any oil leaks. Also ckeck the pinion seal. But get oil into the filler plug before you do anyting else.
1/7/2012 12:26:52 AM • 1995 Ford Ranger... • Answered on Jan 07, 2012
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Have a 1995 4.0L ranger I have no spark I replaced

THE IGNITION KEY IS NOT SENDING POWER TO THE MAIN ELEMENTS.
11/15/2011 3:24:42 AM • 1995 Ford Ranger... • Answered on Nov 15, 2011
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I need wiring diagram for 1995 ford ranger XLT i

Unfortunately this model has separate filaments for the stop and turn signals. You will need to use an adapter relay to hookup a standard trailer plug or you will need a trailer that also uses this wiring setup. The first diagram below indicates there my be a trailer adapter for the turn signals at the base of the steering column. The wire colors at the bulbs are as follows:tail/running lights: brownstop: light greenleft turn: light green/white striperight turn: white/light blue stripeback up: black/pink stripeground: blackPlease let me know if you have questions.10_8_2011_12_03_28_pm.gif10_8_2011_12_04_46_pm.gif10_8_2011_12_05_06_pm.gif10_8_2011_12_10_51_pm.gif
10/8/2011 6:15:49 PM • 1995 Ford Ranger... • Answered on Oct 08, 2011
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Loud rattle noise under truck between 2,000 and

if you have a protection pan on the bottom of the vehicle, check that to be sure its tight, if you have rear wheel drive, make sure the drive shaft and u joints are ok,, if all those check out to be fine, check your motor mounts. under carriage rattles can be a real pain to locate,
9/9/2011 12:02:25 AM • 1995 Ford Ranger... • Answered on Sep 09, 2011
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Is there more than one

Hello rangerracer0,


Below are the images you requested.

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8/21/2011 11:25:23 PM • 1995 Ford Ranger... • Answered on Aug 21, 2011
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If i manually put my

Youll have poor cornering on pavment. youll go through tires fast, on pavement. Uneven tire wear causing shaking and road noise. The cornering stress on pavment will cause excessive wear on your differential components. No. Its a bad idea unless you are driveing 90 percent on dirt or gravel or snow.
8/18/2011 3:32:38 AM • 1995 Ford Ranger... • Answered on Aug 18, 2011
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Oil pan repl. 1995 ford ranger 3 liter automatic

Oil Pan, Ranger SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036
Removal
  1. Disconnect battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 14-01.
  1. Remove air cleaner outlet tube assembly by unclipping air cleaner clamp, loosening hose clamp at outlet tube, disconnecting intake air temperature (IAT) sensor and mass air flow (MAF) sensor connectors, and crankcase ventilation hose.
  1. Remove oil level indicator fan shroud retaining bolts. Position shroud over fan blade.
  1. Remove radiator support bolts. Raise and secure radiator to front core support.
  1. Remove engine mount nuts from studs.
  1. Unclip 42-pin connector from bracket and position it aside.
  1. Install suitable lifting brackets to left and right exhaust manifolds. Attach Rotunda Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036 (or equivalent) to lifting brackets. With a suitable lifting device raise engine approximately 50.8 mm (2 in). Install wood blocks between engine mounts and support brackets. Remove lifting device.
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 00-02.
  1. Drain the oil.
  1. Remove transmission insulator retaining nuts and install a jack stand to extension housing. Raise transmission about 25.4-101.6mm (1-4 in) to gain access for removal of oil pan.
  1. Remove transmission inspection cover.
  1. Remove starter motor splash shield.
  1. Remove starter motor retaining bolts and secure starter aside.
  1. If equipped, disconnect and remove low oil level sensor.
  1. NOTE: Oil pan fits tightly between transmission spacer plate and oil pump pickup tube. Use care when removing pan to avoid damaging either part.
    Remove oil pan bolts and lower pan.
  1. Remove oil pump retaining bolts. Lower and twist pump to allow the oil pan to lower completely. Remove the pump and pan assembly from vehicle.
  1. Remove and discard oil pan gasket.
  1. Clean the oil pan mating surface.
Installation
  1. NOTE: When using silicone rubber sealer, assembly should occur within 15 minutes after sealer application. After this time, the sealer may start to set up, and its sealing effectiveness could be reduced.
    Apply a 4.0-6.0 mm (1/5 inch) bead of Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-AA or -BA (or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESB-M4G92-A and ESE-M4G195-A) to junction of rear main bearing cap and cylinder block and to junction of front cover assembly and cylinder block. Position oil pan gasket to cylinder block and secure it with Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-19B508-B (or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M11P17-A and ESE-M2G52-A).
  1. Install oil pump assembly and bolt. Tighten bolt to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
  1. NOTE: If oil pan is replaced with a new pan you must tighten new pan to spec then loosen and retighten.
    Position oil pan to cylinder block and install oil pan to engine bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (7-10 lb-ft).
  1. Remove jack stand and install transmission insulator retaining nuts. Tighten nuts to 85-118 Nm (63-87 lb-ft).
  1. NOTE: When replacing low oil level sensor, use a new metal gasket with a rubber O-ring.
    Install low oil level sensor. Tighten sensor to 20-34 Nm (15-25 lb-ft).
  1. Install transmission inspection cover and retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (7-10 lb-ft).
  1. Install starter motor and bolts. Tighten bolts to 22-28 Nm (17-20 lb-ft).
  1. Securely install starter motor splash shield.
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. Install lifting device and support engine. Remove wood blocks and lower engine back into original position. Remove lifting device and Rotunda Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036 (or equivalent). Remove lifting brackets from right and left exhaust manifolds.
  1. Remove support straps, lower radiator into position, and install radiator bolts to core support. Position fan shroud and install the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 6-8 Nm (52-71 lb-in).
  1. Install engine mount nuts and tighten to 98-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
  1. Connect 42-pin connector to the bracket and install oil level indicator.
  1. Install engine air cleaner outlet tube assembly. Connect IAT sensor, MAF sensor, and crankcase ventilation hose. Securely tighten the hose clamp.
  1. NOTE: When battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms can occur while powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. Vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn strategy.
    Connect battery ground cable.
  1. Fill crankcase with correct viscosity and amount of engine oil.
  1. Start engine and check for oil leaks.

    Oil Pan Installation - Ranger


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    Hope this helps
8/14/2011 2:34:11 AM • 1995 Ford Ranger... • Answered on Aug 14, 2011
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Headlights not working and brake lights are not

If you are refering to the rear park lights the problem is most likely your headlight switch.
8/5/2011 12:37:04 AM • 1995 Ford Ranger... • Answered on Aug 05, 2011
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Where is the cam sensor

It is Under hood, center, upper engine area, front driver side of engine, mounted on cylinder head. And looks like this:



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7/21/2011 7:06:05 PM • 1995 Ford Ranger... • Answered on Jul 21, 2011
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Engine runs for seconds and

Did you change the filter ???
7/16/2011 11:42:57 PM • 1995 Ford Ranger... • Answered on Jul 16, 2011
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