Top 10 1997 Ford Taurus Questions & Answers

Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0442 indicates that a fuel vapor leak has been detected [as small as 0.10 cm (0.04 inch)] in the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) system.
Note: Prior to performing the following diagnosis inspect the Canister Vent Solenoid (CV) for contamination. A situation may exist where contamination holds open the Canister Vent (CV) solenoid enough to set DTC P0442 and also plugs the port to atmosphere enough to keep system from being vented quickly.

• After market parts and accessories nonconforming to the EVAP system specifications.
• Damaged, cross threaded or loosely installed fuel filler cap.
• Small holes or cuts in fuel vapor hoses/tubes (EVAP canister tube, EVAP canister outlet tube or EVAP return tube) in the EVAP system.
• Loose fuel vapor hose/tube connections to EVAP system components.
• EVAP system component [EVAP canister purge valve, fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor, canister vent (CV) solenoid, fuel vapor control valve tube assembly or fuel vapor vent valve assembly] seals leaking.
• CV solenoid partially open when commanded closed.
• EVAP canister leaking.
• Check for presence of fuel filler cap.
• Verify that the CV solenoid is properly seated on the EVAP canister (if possible).
• Visually inspect for cut or loose connections to fuel vapor hoses/tubes in following locations:
  • EVAP canister to EVAP canister purge valve.
  • EVAP canister to fuel vapor vent valve assembly.
  • fuel vapor control valve tube assembly to fuel tank (if applicable).

images from a 97 Ford Taurus, GL body type. Shows location of flasher and a simple removal tecnique I discovered. The alternative was insane contortion.

The easiest option is to purchase a HAYNES WORKSHOP MANUAL.

where there are all the wiring diagrams in the rear (Available on Ebay etc)

If you have a particular Mondeo problem, then this free site can be very useful

http://www.mirez.co.uk/map.htm

DTC P0760/P0761/P1761 indicates SS3 electrical malfunction.

Possible cause:

Internal Transmission
Damaged solenoid
Solenoid circuit open or shorted to power or ground
Power circuit open or shorted
PCM damaged.
It's possible the Shift Solenoid is damaged, or the wiring for it is damaged. This solenoid is located in the valve body of the transmission so I would recommend that a Ford Dealer look at it. Ask them to reference TSB number 98-6-5. I think it may apply to your vehicle.
With the problem being intermittent, I think it could be a damaged or dirty transmission connector.

That is a shift solenoid #3 failure. There is a tsb for the shift solenoid gate breaking and causing this code. The valve body will need to be removed and if the gate is broken will need to be replaced and the bore inspected to make sure its not damaged. this will need to be repaired by a shop or mechanic that is familiar with this problem.

FORD: 1994-1998 TAURUS LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1994-1998 SABLE
1995-1998 CONTINENTAL

ISSUE: No 4th gear operation (no 3-4 shift) and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0734 and/or P0761 or 648 may occur on some vehicles. This may be caused by a broken retaining clip in the valve body that secures the forward clutch control valve and spring in place.
ACTION: Replace broken forward clutch control valve retaining clip with revised forward clutch control valve retaining clip. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Inspect for a broken retaining clip by removing the valve body and then the valve body separator plate. Inspect the forward clutch control valve, spring, retaining clip, and valve body casting for damage
2. If the clip is broken and the forward clutch control valve and/or valve body casting is damaged, replace the main control. The retaining clip has just been revised to prevent the chance of breakage. The revised Retaining Clip (F8DZ-7F194-AA) has circular cutouts on the side of the clip in place of the square cutouts on the previous design level clip
   
   

1. Inspect the new main control (if required) before installing it and replace this retaining clip for the forward clutch control valve and spring if it's not the new design (Figure 2).
2. Any time service is required on any AX4N transaxle main control, inspect the retaining clip for the forward clutch control valve to be sure it is the latest design level, and replace the retaining clip if it is not. The revised clip is larger and will remain centered in the valve body casting groove.

PART NUMBER PART NAME F8DZ-7F194-AA Forward Clutch Control Valve Retaining Clip

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 981007A Inspect/Repair/Replace Main Control Valve Body 2.4 Hrs.

DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 7F194 01

OASIS CODES: 501000, 502000, 503000, 503300, 503400, 504000



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its quite a job, but hopefully this helps you, i have already replaced my gfs transmission on her 2000 taurus once and i need to do it again, ford really sucked on these transmissions. if you jack up the car high enough to give you about 21/2 feet of pllay under the car it would be good, take the tires off, take the calipers off, disc brakes, nut on axles, rack and pinion to the spindle, shocks, everything that will get in the way when you bring down the bottom frame. under the hood, i take out the intake air box and battery with battery plate so it gives you room to disconnect the shift cable and all connections that need to be disconnected. now remember when you bring down this frame its going to come down with motor and tranny, so you gotta either get an engine hoist or put some blocks under the mottor,take the starter off, take the torque converter cover off from the bottom its right in the middle of the motor and tranny 2 screws, there are 4 nuts honding the torque converter in there so you will probably need the help of someone to turn the main pulley as you look for those 4 nuts, take all bolts holding the transmission in place, take axles off, 2 big nuts for the rack and pinion, 2 nuts for motor mounts (if you are under the car they are holding onto the squared frame, use a engine hoist to hold on to the motor and use a jack under to hold the tranny, now this is the tricky part, you might want to use a second jack to hold the frame, as you take off the 4 main bolts for the bottom frame leave one so it dosent come crashing down, if you have everything secure, take the last bolt off as you have the jack holding it in the front in place, when you take it off then bring the jack down slowly making sure you got all bolts and connections, once that is down make sure all bolts and connections are disconnected from transmission, there are 2 metal hoses that go into the front of the transmission that are a pain to get out, squeeze the 2 little plastic ears that it has as you try to pull the tip out, play with it cause sometimes they are a pain, once you have that, double check everything and you can wiggle the tranny to make sure its loose off the motor if it is, take precaution and bring the jack down slow to bring your transmition down. hope it helps if you know some basics of mechanical.

The advise above is worthless. You dont have access to the location to where everyone makes it sound so easy to do. It is not easy and no one has been able to explain how to do it. It is increadible how a manufacturer could make such a simple thing so increadibly complexed. I think they did it on purpose so one would be dependent on the service department for additional revenue. Remember these things when they ask for bailouts and try to sell you on how much they care. They are all the same and only care about your monry.

1. Step 1 Mark the brake lines coming into and out of the master cylinder using masking tape and permanent marker.
   
2. Step 2 Orient the tube wrench so that it grabs the end of the nut by first sliding it over the brake line.
   
3. Step 3 Pull the brake lines out of the master cylinder.
   
4. Step 4 Unbolt the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to the brake booster.
   
5. Step 5 Slide the master cylinder off the brake booster.
   
6. Step 6 Remove the bolts that hold the brake booster to the firewall.
   
7. Step 7 Remove the cotter pin from the pin holding the back of the brake pedal to the master cylinder.
   
8. Step 8 Slide the brake booster to brake pedal pin out of the mounting bracket.
   
9. Step 9 Pull the brake booster off the firewall.
   
10. Step 10 Install the new brake booster. Installation is the reverse of removal.
    

Sometimes one problem causes many more. The camshaft sensor should be easy to access. Go to a good parts store and have a look at the diagram for part location. You may not need a Catalytic converter yet.

If the camshaft sensor went crazy you will not fire on all cylinders. Therefore the exhaust mixture will be rich and can damage the Catalytic converter. But when the repairs are made to the Camshaft sensor, give it some time to run correctly and see if the Catalytic converter clears up.

As with any repair, disconnect the NEG battery cable for 10 minutes to clear the old codes. Then use the car and let the car go for 300 miles or so to purge the Catalytic converter of excess fumes. Then if you need a newer Catalytic converter its almost like installing a muffler. You may need a special socket to change out O2 sensors from old to new.

Costs vary, Sensors are $20 to $50. Catalytics can be expensive, but Salvage yards have them used.

Please go to this page for engine misfire causes.

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These details will help.
Thanks.