1999 Ford Ranger SuperCab - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Try looking in the Chilton manual. This should help: Do It Yourself and DIY Auto Repair by ChiltonDIY Chilton Auto Repair Manual Online Do It Yourself DIY DIY Repair Manual from Chilton

When you have both codes at the same time, it indicates that both bank 1 & 2 O2 sensors are reporting lean condition. If only one code appeared it is usually a bad sensor, but with both codes, it is probable that it really is running way to lean. This is usually caused by a vacuum leak. Make sure you intake hose from MAF sensor (air filter box) to intake is secured and has no leaks, then move on to looking for, vacuum hoses leaking, intake gaskets leaking etc...

Very unlikely that it would be a computer problem, it does not control the A/C, or temp gauge. Sounds like multiple problems. A/C could be just low on Freon, if pressure is low, it will not turn on. Temp gauge and rough idle may be related, if temp sensor is bad, the computer wont know the engine temperature and thus not mix the fuel correctly. But there are many things that can cause rough cold engine idle, like dirty throttle plate, or bad idle air control valve. You did not say what engine you have, so this is just general information.

bad light switch maybe

Under hood battery junction block, Fuse #1 - 50 amp maxi fuse . This supply's power to the interior fuse panel. Top right corner

door sensor is bad. switch is staying closed allowing juice to interior lights. The door switch is there. have autozone or napa look up the location for you...

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/sfr4x4/fuses.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php%3Fp%3D123619&usg=__jJol-UP-dsKH6FkmoRfboZY9uP4=&h=995&w=331&sz=90&hl=en&start=37&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=u7T58lhAwBrbHM:&tbnh=149&tbnw=50&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dford%2Branger%2Bsupercab%2Bfuse%2Bbox%2Bdiagram%26ndsp%3D21%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26start%3D21%26um%3D1

this might be the same

or this one http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx313/redmudpei/untitled.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php%3Fp%3D588211&usg=__HPD1vJsTHLHWE5rzzeEH-xVsjrM=&h=1024&w=901&sz=125&hl=en&start=113&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=T-a2U-vULyk8SM:&tbnh=150&tbnw=132&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dford%2Branger%2Bsupercab%2Bfuse%2Bbox%2Bdiagram%26ndsp%3D21%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26start%3D105%26um%3D1

hope one helps

You are having trouble with the ecm. Have a scanner hooked up to test the ecm

There is a black box behind the jump seat on the drivers side. You have to remove the panel to get to it. There is a button on the box that resets the shift motor on the transfercase. It this don't fix the problem, then the shift motor is going bad. I hope this helps.

On the back of the transfercase there is an electric shift motor. You can remove it and turn the shift shaft with a cresent wrench to move it to 4 high or 2 high. Caution: be sure to block the wheels so the vehicle can not move before you get under it. If you move the shaft to the neutral position, the truck will roll.It in not likely that you will be able to put the shift motor back on unless you can get the slot in the motor drive to line back up with the shift shaft. I hope this helps you.

It would be my best guess that you have a rubber break line collapsing on the inside that is not allowing the brake fluid to return to the break resevior. I have run into this on a number of occasions. It is usually on of the front caliper lines. I hope this helps you. Good Luck.

I have the same problem, the switch in the door is either faulty or the door latch is sticking, try spraying the door latch with WD40 and open and close your door to work it in if this is the problem it should free up the latch which hits the switch for the dome light and the door ajar light. This did not work for me I replaced the door switch with push pin switches instead.

If the windows worked well before but became intermittent, I'd be checking the switches. You can also power the motors with jumpers to insure the motors work. If the brushes are worn, you can sometimes make the window work one last time by giving the door a good thump to jar the armature and possibly get better brush contact.

needs a new switch relay

Have you tried changing the fuel pump relay, or fuse? I have always went by one rule first and that is (never overlook the obvious) most of the time it's something simple hope this helps

Check to see if your Air Bag warning light comes on to prove out when you turn the key to the "on" position. If it does not the beeping you are hearing is an audible air bag warning indictator indicating a fault in the system.

Any slipping-- your trans is done Pull it & rebuild it- AFTER-you diagnose the electrical part of the system

You have to component test to find a problem Only failed parts get replaced Codes have nothing to do with parts You can have codes & not need parts Codes only indicate an out of range condition You have to find out why

All OBD Codes are on the internet with print,charts,video,solutions You Type your codes & read up Study OBD 2 Systems also OBD PO171 OBD PO174 I had to Google Cen Tech as i never heard of it They appear to be inexpensive low end for sure You won't get a lot of data out it If your never planning on going to professional software, consider the top scan/code reader type tools like Innova Professional or at least mid level Actron & a couple other brands You really need to see sensors,emission monitors, so your ready for inspection You will only get Generic Codes from a code reader not body functions likes abs,air conditioning,srs,& others More data is better-- you will learn these systems as time goes by They have been with us for 35 years now OBD1 15 years OBD2 20 years

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