wheel bearing failure allows wheels to lean it that top
next is ball joint failure followed by suspension bush failure
Take it to an accredited suspension shop and when finished with the repairs have a wheel alignment done
Hi, you will need to do a compression check on all cylinders, compare results, IF this is ok, check spark plug cap, lead, rotor arm, distributor cap.
You say plug was "wet & blackened", was that fuel (plug not firing) or oil ( oil getting up past rings into bore )
The latter is expensive. (strip/re bore etc. etc.)
You have to remove the bolts from both sides of the tube. Use penetrating oil to get the bolts loose if they are seized. Once the bolts are out, give the tube a slight wiggle. It should come out.
Where the wiper arms attach at the base of the windshield, look on the side of the wiper arm for a small lock that can be pulled out with a small screwdriver, lift the wiper arm and slide the lock out as you release the wiper arm which should now stay in the raised position, slide the wioer arm off the shaft where the arm is attached.
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2496c4f07ad24453
You really need to get under the vehicle and have someone poor in the fuel to exactly see where the leak is coming from. It's probably got to do with cracks in rubber hose or the hose clamps needs to be tightened. The fuel filler neck is composed of metal and rubber tubes connected with clamps, you'll get it when you see it.
its possible that your filler neck is porous and is the problem(rare). while filling have you looked under to see where the leak is coming from. the ash substance happens on a lot of rubber parts as the environment begins to break down the rubber.
You have to bleed the system. Not very likely an air lock, since air will come out of the fill bottle sooner or later. You can try removing the rad cap (when its cold) start it up. put heater on high, let it run and check for good coolant flow in the rad. Any trapped air will also come out.
Hi Perry, I'm glad to help!
First thing to do is go to the Library and pull up the wiring for your truck and find out what all goes to that fuse. Most of the time the circuit that on that fuse can go to several different thing. If it only goes to the fuel pump then see if there is a connect going back to the fuel pump somewhere at the front of the vehicle USUALLY in the finder well on the frame. Unplug that connector and see if the fuse still pop's. If it doesn't then you know the problem is in that wiring going to the rear of the truck. Find the short and fix it, most like its grounding somewhere on the frame. If it still pop's then you know the problem is in the front part of the truck, start checking frayed or damaged wiring. Unplug different thing like alternator, starter and connector and see if it goes away. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Perry.
no engine poweror not 12vdc power.if the head lights dont work fix that first, is childs play.the HL are hot at all times. you turn them on and the must ALWAYSwork. if not troubleshoot that .the big fuses near battery.then the headlight fues.use a VOLT meter, (any).the drawings are here , at all timesalldata dot com
