Top 10 2005 Ford F-150 Questions & Answers

You can't remove the rotors because the emergency brake is tight on the inside of the rotors. Make sure it's not engaged when you are working on the rear brakes. Block the front tires for saftey. Then you have to remove the rear calipers from the mounting brackets, there are two bolts that hold the calipers on. Make sure you hang the calipers securily with some wire so you don't damage the rubber brake line hose. Then you need to adjust the emergency parking brake shoes in order to remove the rotors. Theres a rubber plug on the backside of the rear hubs, once you look at the back of the hub you'll see the plug. It's on the top. Once you take out the plug, you need to use a screw driver to turn the star spindel. You need to turn the star spindel counter-clockwise in order to give yourself enough clearance to remove the rotors. The beauty of this design is that ford incorporated a drum and caliper system together, but it's difficult to take off the rotors if the emergency brake shoes are to tight. The inside of the rotors acts as the drums for the emergency brake system. I've done this and it's not that hard, but, I did have to replace the emergency brake shoes because they were worn out and the shoes fell off the metal backing plates when I finally got the rotors to come off. They only glued these shoes onto the backing plates, they don't rivet them so take your time getting the rotors off or you can damage the emergency brake shoes, but if you do they are cheap at napa. My service guide says to install the new rotors, use a couple of lug nuts to hold it on, then adjust the star spindal for the emergency brake all the way clockwise until you can't turn it anymore, then you must back it off 8 clicks counter-clockwise. Make sure the emergency brake is not engaged when you are doing this, the 8 clicks backwards compensates for when you do engage the parking brake because the shoes expands outwards. This adjustment sets the emergency brakes so they work properly. Once the emergency brake is properly set you can't remove the rear rotors, which is what your initial problem is. Then install the rubber plug back in the hole, put on the new pads and calipers and you're good to go.

First of all, the problem was caused by lack of use of the 4x4. The fix was to have someone sit in the seat & turn the switch while 2nd person tapped on 4x4 solenoid underneath the truck (next to the gearbox (seen from rear of truck) about directly below middle-rear-seat). It must have become stuck (or rusted) together? Little taps while engaging switch 'unfroze' it. My 2 fuses that were blown were probably caused by overloading when I first tried to use the 4x4 while it was frozen out. Since fixing, just be sure to turn it on (and off) frequently, even if you don't need it. You don't actually need to drive with it, just engage it temporarily.

JUST COMPLETED THIS JOB TODAY. MAKE SURE THE ENGINE HAS COOLED DOWN . IT TOOK APPROX 2 1/2 HRS. DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE POST ON THE BATTERY. JACK UP PASSENGER SIDE FRONT AND SUPPORT ON JACK STANDS. REMOVE PASS. FROUNT TIRE. DRAIN RADIATOR INTO CONTAINER FOR PROPER DISPOSAL OR REUSE. USING FLOOR JACK PROVIDE SLIGHT TENSION ON OIL PAN WITH A SHORT 2 X 4 WOOD PIECE TO PROTECT OIL PAN. LOOSEN 3 ENGINE MOUNT BOLTS ON PASS. SIDE OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT. ALLOW APPROX 1" BETWEEN SHOULDER OF BOLTS AND MOUNT. LOWER ENGINE UNTILL BOLTS ARE SET ONTO MOUNT. REMOVE ENGINE SPLASH SHIELD INSIDE WHEEL WELL OF REMOVED TIRE. LOCATE WATER PUMP AND LOOSEN 3 PULLEY MOUNTING BOLTS (THIS IS WHILE BELT IS ON PULLEY) REMOVE SURPENTINE BELT AND CONTINUE TO FULLY REMOVE THE PUMP PULLEY. IT WONT COME OUT AS THE PUMP & PULLEY HAVE TO COME OUT TOGEATHER. REMOVE 5 WATER PUMP BOLTS AND CAREFULLY WORK WATER PUMP OUT BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND VEHICLE FRAME. CLEAN ALL MATING/GASKET SURFACES AND BOLTS. USING A SMALL AMOUNT OF TACKY SEALENT TO INSURE THE NEW WATER PUMP SEAL STAYS IN PLACE, THE INSTALL IS PRITTY MUCH THE REVERSAL OF REMOVAL.

GOOD LUCK, REMEMBER TO TIGHTEN ALL BOLTS TO MFR SPECS AND BLEED THE AIR OUT OF THE COOLANT AS REQUIRED.

alarm rearms itself.

this is for 2001 and is similar.

Anti-Theft —PATS The passive anti-theft system (PATS) contains the following components:

• theft indicator
• encoded ignition key
• transceiver module
• instrument cluster
• powertrain control module (PCM)
• standard corporate protocol (SCP) communication network

The PATS uses radio frequency identification technology to deter a driveaway theft. Passive means that it does not require any activity from the user. This system is known as SecuriLock® in North America, Safeguard® in the U.K. and PATS in continental Europe. This information can be found in owners literature.
The PATS uses a specially encoded ignition key. Each encoded ignition key contains a permanently installed electronic device called a transponder. Each transponder contains a unique electronic identification code, with over 72 million billion combinations.
Each encoded ignition key must be programmed into the vehicle's instrument cluster (the instrument cluster is also known as a hybrid electronic cluster [HEC]), before it can be used to start the engine. There are special diagnostic procedures outlined in the workshop manual that must be carried out if new encoded ignition keys are to be installed.
The encoded key is larger than a traditional ignition key. The key does not require batteries and should last the life of the vehicle.
The transceiver module communicates with the encoded ignition key. This module is located behind the steering column shroud and contains an antenna connected to a small electronics module. During each vehicle start sequence, the transceiver module reads the encoded ignition key identification code and sends the data to the instrument cluster.
The control functions are contained in the instrument cluster. This module carries out all of the PATS functions such as receiving the identification code from the encoded ignition key and controlling engine enable. The instrument cluster initiates the key interrogation sequence when the vehicle ignition switch is turned to RUN or START.
The PATS uses the PCM to enable or disable the engine. The instrument cluster communicates with the PCM over the SCP network in order to enable engine operation. The instrument cluster and the PCM use sophisticated messages in order to prevent a theft. The instrument cluster and the PCM share security data (when first installed together) that makes them a matched pair. After this security data sharing, these modules will not function in other vehicles. The shared PCM ID is remembered even if the battery is disconnected. The instrument cluster also stores the vehicle's key identification code even if the battery is disconnected. There are special diagnostic procedures outlined in this workshop manual that may be carried out if either a new instrument cluster or PCM needs to be installed.
All elements of PATS must be functional before the engine is allowed to start. If any of the components are not working correctly, the vehicle will not start.
PATS uses a visual theft indicator. This indicator will prove out for three seconds when the ignition switch is turned to RUN or START under normal operation. If there is a PATS problem, this indicator will either flash rapidly or glow steadily (for more than three seconds) when the ignition switch is turned to RUN or START. PATS also "blips" the theft indicator every two seconds at ignition OFF to act as a visual theft deterrent.
The PATS is not compatible with aftermarket remote start systems, which allow the vehicle to be started from outside the vehicle. These systems may reduce the vehicle security level, and also may cause no-start issues. Remote start systems must be removed before investigation of PATS-related no-start issues.

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Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Ignition lock cylinder
• Encoded ignition key (PATS key)
• Use of non-encoded ignition key (key without the molded plastic head, non-PAT key)
• Use of a non-programmed encoded ignition key

• Central junction box:
  • Fuse 2 (5A)
  • Fuse 6 (5A)
  • Fuse 30 (30A)
• PATS transceiver
• Connectors
• Ignition switch

I had the same problem and i brought a new ford oem cd player 2 times and my mechanic says its an electrical problem with some fords not the Cd player or the radio. So your cd player may not be junk, it may be electrical or wiring problem.

If you don't have the owner's manual go here: https://www.flmowner.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/IdentifyVehiclePage&level=vehicle&BackToLogin=Owner/Page/OwnerGuidePage&origref=http%3A//www.ford.com/owner-services/maintaining-vehicle
You can download the manual or browse it.

I would start with disconnecting the EATC / EMTC ( Electronic Automatic / Manual Temperature Control ) panel.

Open the ash tray, and pull each lower corner out, they are held on with spring clips. Working your way up the center trim panel, there are 6 ( 3 on each side- black circles in the picture above ).
When you get to the top, be cautious, the Passenger side airbag deactivation lamp has small wires on it, don't pull too hard ( green circle above )
On the back of the EATC / EMTC panel are 2 cam over connectors ( blue circles in the picture above ), release the cam tab, and they will disconnect.
When you reconnect it, it will default to off. Next is to run the self test calibration process ( pay attention to the temperature range ).

I have found some times the EATC / EMTC panel will just freeze up, and disconnecting it, and recalibrating it will make it work again. Few of them have not seen a problem again in 2+ years.
Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module On-Demand Self-Test The EATC module on-demand self-test will retrieve on-demand (hard fault) DTCs only, it will not retrieve continuous DTCs. Continuous DTCs can be cleared when exiting the EATC module on-demand self-test. Make sure to retrieve continuous DTCs by carrying out the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module - Retrieve Continuous DTCs procedure before clearing any continuous DTCs.


•The EATC module on-demand self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A diagnostic tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
•The EATC module on-demand self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display on-demand (hard fault) DTCs for concerns that are present during the self-test. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-38°C (40°-100°F) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false DTCs may be displayed.
•The self-test can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when the self-test is activated.
•To enter the self-test, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and release, then press the AUTO button within 2 seconds . The display will show a flashing blower icon for 20 seconds , after which all vacuum fluorescent segments will be displayed if there are no on-demand DTCs present. If DTCs are present the EATC module will display "00 00" and then on-demand DTCs. Record all DTCs displayed.
•If any DTCs appear during the self-test, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Diagnostic Trouble Code Index and follow the ACTION for each DTC given. See: Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions
•If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
•To exit the self-test and retain all DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The EATC module will exit the self-test and retain all DTCs.
•To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The EATC module will exit the self-test and all DTCs will be cleared.
•Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Once the self-test is exited, the ignition switch must remain ON for at least 30 seconds to allow the door actuators to automatically recalibrate.
•Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs.

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module - Retrieve Continuous DTCs
The EATC module will retrieve only continuous (intermittent and hard) DTCs when carrying out this procedure.


•Retrieval of continuous DTCs can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when retrieving continuous DTCs.
•To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and release, then press the RECIRC button within 2 seconds . All vacuum fluorescent segments will be displayed if there are no continuous DTCs present. Continuous DTCs are indicated by the presence of the degrees Celsius symbol (°C) on the EATC module display. Record all DTCs displayed.
•If any DTCs appear, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Diagnostic Trouble Code Index and follow the ACTION for each DTC given. See: Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions
•If a condition exists but no DTCs appear, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
•To exit and retain all continuous DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The EATC module will exit the retrieved continuous DTCs mode and retain all continuous DTCs.
•To exit and clear all continuous DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The EATC module will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and all continuous DTCs will be cleared.
•Always exit the procedure before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Once the procedure is exited, the ignition switch must remain ON for at least 30 seconds to allow the door actuators to automatically recalibrate.
•Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs.

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) Module and Electronic Manual Temperature Control (EMTC) Module Cold Boot Process The purpose of the cold boot process is to allow the EATC or EMTC module to re-initialize and calibrate the door actuators. To carry out the cold boot process, follow the steps below.

1.Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2.Disconnect the EATC or EMTC module electrical connectors.
3.Wait one minute .
4.Connect the EATC or EMTC module electrical connectors.
5.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
6.Select any position except OFF on the EATC or EMTC module. The EATC or EMTC module will now initialize and calibrate the mode doors. Calibration of the mode doors will take approximately 30 seconds .

Operationally vacuum holds the IWE ( Integrated Wheel Ends ) out, and once vac is removed the spring engages the IWE.

Check the fuses for the 4WD system, Fuses :F111, F11, F29, F30. Use a meter to check for power on both sides of the fuse ( the small pins on the back of the fuse ) with the key in the run position.

Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground ( take safety precautions, chock wheels, jack stands, etc )
Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft.
If it turns it is a problem with the transfer case.
If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem.

- If the front drive shaft does not turn :
Shut of the truck ( still jacked up, and supported ) remove the vac lines from the IWE. The spring should push the gears in, without the vac line on.
Check the vent line ( tube that is routed into the engine compartment with nothing attached to it ), for blockages.
If the vent line is clear, and with the vac lines off the IWE should be engaged ( both front wheels locked ).
If they lock, the problem is with the IWE solenoid not shutting off vacuum to the IWEs. There is a TSB on the 2004-2006 IWE solenoids, a newer revision has been made, and used from 2007 and newer MYs.

If the front driver shaft does turn, use a dead blow hammer on the transfer case to try to knock the transfer case shift motor free, could be hung up.

Here is a block diagram of the IWE system


The common problem is the IWE solenoid, there is a TSB that installs a water shield over it, so water cannot get sucked into the system. This is usually the IWEs making a grinding noise while in 2WD. Hope this was not happening, and the IWE gear is rounded.

Operationally vacuum holds the IWE ( Integrated Wheel Ends ) out, and once vacuum is removed the spring engages the IWE.

Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground ( take safety precautions, chock wheels, jack stands, etc )
Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft.
- If it turns it is a problem with the transfer case.
- If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem.

- If the front drive shaft does not turn :
•Shut of the truck ( still jacked up, and supported ) remove the vacuum lines from the IWE. The spring should push the gears in, without the vacuum line on.
•Check the vent line ( tube that is routed into the engine compartment with nothing attached to it ), for blockages.
•If the vent line is clear, and with the vacuum lines off the IWE should be engaged ( both front wheels locked ).
•If they lock, the problem is with the IWE solenoid not shutting off vacuum to the IWEs. There is a TSB on the 2004-2006 IWE solenoids, a newer revision has been made, and used from 2007 and newer MYs.

- If the front drive shaft turns:
•Check the fuses for the 4WD system ( If ESOF system ) . These are #11, #29, #30 and #111. Use a meter to check the fuses while plugged in, there are pins on the back of the fuse for this. Use a known good ground and check each side of the fuse with the other meter probe, with the meter set to V-DC ( check the scale if a setting that it will read at least 13 V DC ).
•With the key on, if the ESOF system have someone turn the mode selector from 2WD to 4WD while hitting the transfer case with a dead blow hammer ( do not use a metal hammer, it can damage the transfer case ). Some times the shift motor will get stuck ( lack of use ? ) and the dead blown hammer will free it up.
•There are 2 relays ( in the small engine compartment fuse / relay panel - ESOF only ) for the 4WD system, one is the CW ( **** Wise ) one is the CCW ( Counter Clock Wise ). These are full size relays, that can be bench tested, or a quick remove and replace test with the high beam relay in the cab fuse panel ( Relays R03 ). 1 at a time, remove the CW & CCW relays and install them in the position for the high beam relay, and test the high beams by pulling back on the MFS ( MultiFunction Switch ). If the high beams work with both relays, the CW & CCW relays are not the issue ).
•Check the connector on the transfer case for the shift motor, to make sure it is not corroded.

Here is a block diagram of the vacuum system for the IWEs.

Fig. 5.4L Engine Firing Order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 Distributorless ignition system; one coil per cylinder

Hope this helps (remember to rating this free answer and leave a testimonial comment).