2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sometimes you can reset by holding the button on the right stork or the clock button on the mileage clock for 10 seconds but depends on the model

with them both off bump the key few time to see which one is spittin,if thay are[lines] up and down onthe sides one spittin always top or driver side

I had the same problem, I found the post quoted below and fixed the problem in about 1 hour without having to replace any parts. Hope this helps!

(I can't seem to get back into the link but had copied the answer - the original link is: http://www.allaboutauto.us/2007/04/07/1999_chevrolet_blazer_turn_signal_clicking_noise.html)

"I had this same problem and fixed it myself. The problem is caused by the contacts rubbing and releasing small particles which conduct small amounts of electricity and cause the flasher relay to click. From a GM Goodwrench mechanic.

Disconnect Battery Before doing this.

You need to remove the turn signal arm from the steering column. This may seem difficult but it really isn't. Separate the top and bottom covers. Find the screws and remove the switch. One is located behind the column and requires some dexterity to get out. I used a Torx bit on a 1/4 box wrench.

The difficult part is separating the switch to clean the contacts. Take your time and you can figure out how to separate the switch. If I remember right, the switch separates and then the emergency signal switch slides out. Also, pay special attention to the way the rotary wiper delay switch is set into the switch.

Once you can see the contacts, clean them off of all lubricant and metal pieces. I would hesitate to use Isopropyl Alcohol for this because off the plastics involved. I just used lots of Q-Tips and a lot of patience.

Finally, get a good Dielectric (non-conducting) lubricant from auto store and cover all contacts with a thin layer. Put the switch back together, reinstall and test.

This took me about four hours to repair. Because I took my time and did not force anything. Once I figured it out it wasn't that hard. The hard part was the rotary delay switch and how it was set into the switch.

I figured if this didn't work, I was going to have to replace the switch anyway, so what the hell. Just make sure your local auto parts store has one of these available if you screw this one up.

Did this about four years ago and problem has not returned since."

altinator could be bad....

It is possible for pump to run but not put out pressure. Sounds like you need a pump. There is a valve on the fuel rail where you can test fuel pressure. Its just like a tire valve. Just push in on the center pin to see if you get a spray of fuel. It requires around 55 pounds to run. You will need to connect a gauge to the valve to check for proper pressure.

If the engine is turning over than none of the things you replaced will make the engine"start". You will need to check for fuel pressure and spark first. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Smoke test entire vehicle for vacuum leaksYou don't have any idea where the misfireis from, at this point,find outYou installed partsThat is not what you do,you diagnose & findthe cause of the misfire,no parts involved thereYou don't have the professional tools or software at home, to diagnose without wasting time & gettingno whereCould have a bad intake gasket or mechanical problemin one cylinder

The security, antitheft, or passlock light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterperates this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link may help you find ways to bypass this or fix it yourself.http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Check thermostat and the cooler fan

need to check fuel pressure before trying to start and see if it's bleeding down or staying pressurized hook gauge on and check periodically before trying to start, seems like mine done that and it was a b ad fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, 5.3 ? it's on drivers side rail with vacumn line erunning to it about the size of silver dollar diam.

Might be an air door actuator issue.

Change your spark plugs and your wires if that dont help it check you coils and if they good but still wont fix it than check your cranck shaft senseor and your cam shaft sensor

You most certainly have to remove the motor mount bolts and jack up the engine to remove it. If exhaust passes under the pan you will need to remove it also.Also unbolt the fan shroud as it has to move with the fan as you jack up the motor to clear the cross member.

where is the deso sensor located?

Check ball joints, and all tie rod ends in entire steering linkage. Sounds like one of them is bound up.

Sounds like a possible starter motor going bad (brushes worn out)

as a good measure you should engage the 4x4 at least once a month and drive it 5 to 10 miles down the road to keep it in good working condition the automatic lockin hubs may need cleaning as they will become rusted or dirt build up can cause this problem it is farley normal for this to be a problem hope this helps

where is the vacuum pump on a 2001 1500 silverado

This code sets when the air injection system is not working on one bank (passenger side) of the engine. Since it is working on the other bank, the problem is a bad air system check valve on the passenger side. This check valve is located on the pipe feeding into the passenger side exhaust manifold.

Does it make a noise when in 4x4 only? Does it make the noise in 2WD as well? A humming noise is usually associated with a wheel bearing noise. If while driving you steer from side to side and the noise changes pitch or becomes less/more severe it is most likely a wheel bearing. You can raise the vehicle and safely support it. Grab top and bottom of the wheel and feel for play.