20 Most Recent 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Usually you can get it from the dealership, provided you show them the title and proof of ownership.

As far as I know, only one...do you have more than one upper large hose to radiator? The thermostat is usually located in a housing connecting engine block to upper radiator hose.

You best to put ( 2001 Chevy PO263 Codes)into your
search engine & you will be reading for days

Always use the internet to reseach, instead of ask a question

Great & necessary tool, if you work on any vehicle

Also spend days watching YOU TUBE VIDEO ,on any
subject. You will be blown away at what you can learn

CHECK GROUND WIRE TO BATTERY

LOOK UNDER THE HOOD UNDER ENGINE COMPARTMENT.PCM OR ECM MOUNTED IN FRONT OF THE ENGINE NEAR THE BATTERY PCM IS HELD IN PLACE BY A BRACKET.

Thicker oil will not cure this. Try the oil recomended when new which is 5w 30 and an AC Delco oil filter. There is a difference in filters and can create this issue is inferior filters are used. Certain manufacturers actually have Technical Service Bullentins regarding this. It needs thinner when starting. Thicker oil will only remain thin when warm. If carbon is an issue then a good chemical flush and 2 oil changes may help. SeaFoam is highly recomended and productive. Knock, cam and crank sensors will not cause these issues. How does it run otherwise? Here are the values though;

Knock sensor
Testing

1. Connect a digital multimeter to the KS signal circuit and to the KS low reference circuit at the KS.
2. Set the multimeter to the 400 mv AC hertz scale and wait for the display to stabilize at 0 Hz.
3. Tap on the engine block with a non-metallic object near the KS while observing the signal indicated on the multimeter.
   NOTE Do not tap on plastic engine components.
   
4. The multimeter should display a fluctuating frequency while tapping on the engine block. If not, replace the sensor.

1. Connect a digital multimeter to the KS signal circuit and to the KS low reference circuit at the KS.
2. Set the multimeter to the 400 mv AC hertz scale and wait for the display to stabilize at 0 Hz.
3. Tap on the engine block with a non-metallic object near the KS while observing the signal indicated on the multimeter.
   NOTE Do not tap on plastic engine components.
   
4. The multimeter should display a fluctuating frequency while tapping on the engine block. If not, replace the sensor.

It sounds like your tension spring in the ignition has broke or unhooked. That is something that many local locksmiths have the parts and tools to fix. And it would be a lot less expensive than having a new ignition switch installed.
It is highly unlikely that the current condition of your ignition will cause damage to other parts, so I would not consider this issue as being urgent.

I hope this helps you.

Your fluids are low or your belts are slipping or it is so cold, nothing is flowing properly. Did it get better as you drove? If not, remember, stopping is much more important than going and steering is also very important. I suggest you ask your mechanic to take a look at your Silverado. This is a big truck and you must maintain control of it.

It could be something else ... I am not a Chevrolet mechanic ...

Thanks for your visit today.

All TEMPS......5W-30
Engine, with filter..........6.5 quarts [1]
Cooling System, AT Initial Fill..........20.8 quarts

Cooling System, MT Initial Fill..........21.2 quarts

Automatic Transmission, 1000 Initial Fill..........7.4 quarts [2]
Automatic Transmission, 4L80-E Initial Fill..........7.8 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
4 speed 4L80-E..........13.6 quarts
5 speed 1000..........12.7 quarts
Manual Transmission, NV4500 (TOPC)..........7.9 pints
Manual Transmission, ZF S6-650..........12.7 pints

chevrolets are notorious, as well as 1995 and older jeep wranglers for the sending units in the tank going bad as i have a 2001 chevy 2500 truck now with a bad sending unit. some parts stores can get the sending unit by itself but its usually pretty hard to find and ends up costing as much if not more than just buying the complete fuel pump assembly. hope this helps

Sorry, I have run into this problem many times in my shop. The problem is that there is very little clearance between the rotor and hub flange, as the rotor rusts it expands arround the flange. In worst cases I haven't been able to save the rotor and have had to cut them off.
some times I've been able to sneek in and remove the sensors to remove the rust with out removing the rotor, but it always very tight quarters.

Check your sparkplugs and firing system. Does it turn over?

it should be in your air duct on under maybe near air filter