Top 20 1996 Ford Explorer Questions & Answers

no engine told at all and they are not all the same sorry NOT. 4.0L or 5.0:? USA answers me only. and cars. well there are 2 or 3.fuses, huge and some small. one is huge, 50amps to 100amp or more. step one in the manual states remove battery lug first step1. oops skipped? if not the huge fuse is now blown. if you did that act, learn to follow that huge wire on the huge stud of he alternator, it goes to the main fuse box and to a huge fuse or is A FUSEABLE link blown up] now specific answer from the SM. fuse 17 small blown 15amp fuse 15 small 7.5amp, my guess is never seen a fusealble link? they are not snap in fuses at all Ford gray coded is 12gauge rated. no idea me why there are 2. alternators 130 amps to 200,so my guess is 2 are there to DO THAT., if the alternator shorts, as they do sometimes you do not want a harness fire for sure next to fuel lines. boom avoid the dark side fix it right up upgrade to real fuse/extra box.

Check out the videos. It is better to replace than bypass. https://www.google.com/search?q=bypass+window+regular+on+1996+ford+explorer ..

Check all fuses includeing main fuse if all good. While cranking check for spark if spark present check for fuel pressure , if no spark test coil if coil is good I would suspect a bad computer if no fuel pressure you have a bad fuel pump

I think that I answered this already it's your brake light switch on the brake pedal down by the steering column it has a plug with a hitch pin holding it on the bracket

Because its your brake pedal switch that has failed when it fails it makes the brake pedal switch keep the lights on to show you that it's broken replace the switch and it will stop make sure the switch and spacers go back in the way you took them out

Tis a transfer case issue. Could be shifting fork wear pads worn out which will wear the fork ends to where their bent.

Try disconnecting the negative pole of the battery and wait 20 minutes before reconnecting. It should reset the fault code when you reinsert the key.

May be the body control module.

Where was the clicking noise heard ? in the instrument panel , behind the dash ? Center ,left , right side etc.... possible dimmer module problem . Looking at wiring diagrams . Does the vehicle have auto lamps , daytime running lamps etc.... Do you know what wiring diagrams are ? Free one's here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html enter vehicle info. year , make , model , engine size . Under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click on instrument panel lamps and or head lamps . Check the circuits , find the source of the clicking an you most likely found the problem .

Very likely bad u-joints.

Could be your harmonic balancer Rubber is bad.

The lower thermostat housing is a very common failure on the 4.0L SOHC.

There are wires for the alarm that are touching each other it could be at the horn or headlights these kind of things happen from wires rubbing the steering column or the alarm module at the mounting or from an accident that previously had taken place and the wire harness was drilled through to fix a dent or the harness was fractured during impact and now high moisture content causes the arcing of the wires so I'm not there and I also have no info on what vehicle this is the make of the truck would help but also before I forget the lighting control module if this is a ford ?you posted in the ford section// both the horn & lights can have the same circuit wire for the alarm please post back with specific info on the vehicle I did the best I could but this was very vague on description all trucks are not the same electrical engineering schematics thanks oh by the way I'm a ford taxi mechanic in N.Y.C.with 50+years of experience in everything and I'm the one who can help you here but we have to narrow down the possibilities here so you need to write down everything you have done and answer these questions ok (1)are you the original owner/for the accident part this is important the wire harnesses go down the inner fenders on certain trucks and cars and also run through the front where the bumper support is and across to the power distribution box on the inner fender a front end collision would damage the harness at the turning point into the engine compartment and also along the ac condenser and along the fenders on both sides so if you don't know because your not the original owner then we must take a rag and wrap it around a magnet so you don't scratch the paint and slide it down the fenders any loss of magnetic pull will indicate that there is body dent filling compound at that spot and also drilled holes to use the dent puller slide hammer and could be the problem from either drilling through the harness by a knucklehead or the now drilled hole on the inside has jagged edges that are cutting through the wires from road vibration also investigate across the front from both bumper brackets on the turns in and to the disribution box (2) is the alarm factory installed? (3)was any work done around the truck inside or out and now the problem started? (4)do you sometimes think you smell a electrical burning smell inside?if so check the steering column wires all the way down and pay close attention to the adjustable points where the column moves up and down once you've done all these we can go further take your time go slow so you don't miss anything and write it down for reference that we both know what you did so far I'm currently doing the same thing on a crown victoria that caught fire because of this exact same thing it started in the fender from an accident and was a previous repair before we got the car so please look closely for your own benefit ok thanks post back with more info stephen

Fluids in an engine are all different colors for a reason. There has to be fluid coming from something. IS the oil the right color? Are you checking the level in the radiator and not the reservoir?

your best bet is to invest in a repair manual such as haynes or chilton Fix Your Ford With Your Own Hands Fix Your Ford With Your Own Hands

get the repair manual from the given link and solve the problem your self and more over in future you face any problem you can locate where is the problem is and which part should be replace the manuals are very cheap in rate and also save time and money going to different work shop for repair best of luck i am sure you will be happy by this suggestion http://toolsnyou.com/

It sounds like a weak fuel pump is causing the occasional stalling, particularly when attempting acceleration at normal driving speeds. It's not unusual for it to idle with no problem if the pump is weak. Also, check the fuel lines to.from the fuel pump. If all else fails, you might consider adding an auxiliary fuel pump to counter the weak OEM pump.

You will need one of each of these..(for each year).. match the PURPOSE of each wire.. no matter the color Ford Ranger Service and Repair Manual from Chilton Official Site of... Ford Explorer Service and Repair Manual from Chilton Official Site of...

Anti-theft system problem .Can't hook up the starter wrong , two wires ,one big one , one small one . Won't interchange . Is there a little red light on top of the dash pad , does it flash fast when trying to start . Here is a web site for free wiring diagrams . http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year make , model and engine size . Under system click on engine ,then under subsystem click starting .Click search button then the blue link .Do you have a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Do you know how to use one . Test ,don't guess . Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens Shorts

Check the fluid level. Sounds like that could have just been your problem both times. Just saying maybe Mike