Top 10 1997 Ford Escort Questions & Answers

these can also be caused by a bad alternator

READ THIS ENTIRE SOLUTION BEFORE DOING ANYTHING!

On 1997 Ford Escorts there is a recall for the "Airbag Diagnostic Monitor". In some cases, water has leaked in the diagnostic monitor, causing different codes to appear, and sometimes even deployment. If your car has not already been through the recall procedure, you can schedule a appointment with your local ford dealer to repair the issue.

If your car has already been through the recall procedure, you are on your own.

The recall procedure consists of placing a plastic cover over the diagnostic monitor, and applying grease to the wire clips to help prevent water from entering the monitor.

It's quite easy to see if the vehicle has been through the recall procedure.

Note: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISCONNECT ANY WIRES AT THIS POINT! YOU MAY BLOW YOUR AIRBAG IN YOUR FACE! IT CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY, OR EVEN BE FATAL!

The proper method to view the airbag diagnostic monitor is to remove the console that covers the parking break (2 phillips screws, and a few snap clips, a couple at the rear and couple at the front; but at the front pull straight up), then remove the console that covers the gear shift ( 2 screws, and a couple snap clips), then remove the lower console that is below the ashtray or storage compartment (4 snap clips), then remove the final panels of the console area; there is one on each side (2 snap clips, then pull straight back).
Once you have removed the final panel, you will be able to view the airbag diagnostic monitor.
The airbag diagnostic monitor in a 1997 ford escort is a "blue" box, that sits in a tight compartment near the floor toward the firewall.

If your vehicle has been through the recall procedure, it will have a plastic cover on the top of it, and the wire connectors on the passenger side will have grease on them.

IF THE AIRBAG DIAGNOSTIC MONITOR DOES "NOT" HAVE A PLASTIC COVER ON TOP OF IT, AND GREASE ON THE WIRES, SCHEDULE A APPOINTMENT WITH YOUR LOCAL FORD DEALER AND HAVE THEM REPAIR IT!

If your vehicle has been through the recall procedure, take the following steps to insure the airbags have not been deployed:

1. FIRST DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE AND WAIT AT LEAST 1 MINUTE BEFORE THINKING ABOUT DOING ANYTHING ELSE! The airbag diagnostic monitor is designed to hold power for 1 minute after the vehicle power is cut off, and will deploy the airbags if you do not wait.

2. Inspect the airbags. Look for broken plastic, corrosion, burning, or loose connections (It is not necessary to disconnect the wiring to inspect the airbags). Remove the driver air bag by removing the retaining bolts on the back of the steering wheel (2 10mm bolts). Passenger airbag is accessed by opening the glove compartment, pushing the retaining bumpers "in", to drop it down. Passenger airbag is held in by 4 8mm bolts. If you see signs of prior deployment, you will need to replace the air bags, airbag sensors, and the airbag diagnostic monitor. If there are no signs of deployment they should be fine.

3. Remove the wire clips from the airbag diagnostic monitor.

4. Remove the diagnostic monitor retaining bolts (10mm, 2 on driver side, and 1 on passenger side).

5. Slide the diagnostic monitor out.

If you are going to use a used airbag diagnostic monitor as a replacement, make sure the vehicle you get it from "has not" had the airbags deployed, and you use the "same exact" model. The model numbers are on top of the monitor (the manufacturing date is listed last, and is irrelevant); Most ford vehicles of 1997 use the same monitor with different positioning brackets, and are generally located in the same area of the vehicle.

The positioning brackets can be removed, just use a little patience and care when doing so.

Make sure you install the recall plastic cover, and put new grease on the wire connections when you install the new monitor.

Assemble everything in reverse, AND "DO NOT" CONNECT THE BATTERY UNTIL THE REPAIR IS COMPLETE!

Well our escorts are built in liverpool uk and valencia here in spain,and if this is the problem with the autos many thanks for the info as it always comes in handy providing that i can remember it all .When you are a general mechanic like myself and not a dealer only so to speak ,then you have to fault find as you go along and work from basics.Now this is all very well on older vehicles but some of these new ones i cant evan change a battery without the immobiliser cutting in.Some of the newer mercs and VWs i cant evan change the oil or the brake pads without the immobiliser coming on.Also please dont mention the real bane of my life -----RENAULTS---and encrypted software .How these cars do in the states where the OBDII plug is connected into the car to test the emmisions ,with their renault only plug connector layout and encrypted software that would do mossad or the cia proud i can only wonder ??

Your speed sensor, is located on top of the transaxle, near the starter. To access it, remove the battery, then remove the battery tray (4 10mm bolts). You will see wires coming from the lower oxygen sensor, and they snap into the bracket that holds the speed sensor in place. The actual speed sensor has a 2 wire clip on it, and is held in place by the bracket and a 10mm bolt.

Ford Escort/Tracer 1991-1999 Repair Guide

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.8L Engine
(see Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the timing belt covers.
3. Rotate the crankshaft and align the timing marks located on the camshaft pulleys and the seal plate.
4. Remove the crankshaft pulley and hub.
5. If the timing belt is to be reused, mark an arrow on the belt to indicate its rotational direction to enable correct re-installation.
6. Loosen the timing belt tensioner lockbolt and remove the timing belt.

To install:

1. Temporarily secure the timing belt tensioner in the far left position with the spring fully extended, then tighten the lockbolt.
2. Make sure the timing marks on the timing belt pulley (crankshaft sprocket) and the engine block (oil pump housing) are aligned.
3. Make sure the timing marks on the camshaft pulleys and the seal plate are aligned.
4. Install the timing belt.
5. Loosen the tensioner lockbolt. Using a suitable prying tool, position the timing belt tensioner so the timing belt is taut, then tighten the tensioner lockbolt.
6. Turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise and align the timing belt pulley mark with the mark on the engine block.

Fig. 1: Timing marks are located on the camshaft pulleys as shown-1.8L engines



Fig. 2: Make sure that the crankshaft sprocket (timing belt pulley) and oil pump timing marks are aligned-1.8L engines



Fig. 3: Align the timing belt pulley mark with the tension set mark, at approximately the 10 o'clock position-1.8L engines


Fig. 4: Check the timing belt deflection at the location shown-1.8L engines

1. Make sure the camshaft pulley marks are aligned with the seal plate marks.

If the timing marks are not aligned, remove the belt and repeat the procedure.


I hope help you with this; remember rated this help. Good luck.

with a/c

witout a/c

hope this helps
Jay

The LF and RR are in an independent circuit of the RF, LR wheels. The master cylinder already has the lines hooked up in a way that if you trace the lines, you can make your own diagram.

Check this procedure to REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(1.8L and 1.9L Engines)

CAUTION Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Place fender covers on the aprons.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Drain the cooling system.
4. Remove the right and left-hand front splash shields.
5. Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator.
6. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, disconnect the lower oil cooler line from the radiator. Remove the oil cooler line brackets from the bottom of the radiator.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. If equipped with an automatic transaxle and air conditioning, remove the seal located between the radiator and the fan shroud.
9. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, remove the upper oil cooler line from the radiator.
10. If equipped with the 1.8L engine, remove the resonance duct from the radiator mounts.
11. Unplug the cooling fan motor electrical connector and the cooling fan thermoswitch electrical connector.
12. If necessary, remove the cooling fan thermoswitch for clearance.
13. Remove the three fan shroud attaching bolts and remove the shroud assembly by pulling it straight up.
14. On some 1.9L engines equipped with A/C, remove the upper radiator air deflector from the radiator and set it aside.
15. Remove the upper radiator hose and the two upper radiator mounts.
16. If equipped, remove the fluid cooler tube bracket bolts and coolant overflow hose from the radiator.
17. Remove the radiator from the engine compartment by lifting it straight up.

2.0L Engine
(1997 MODELS)

1. Remove the fan motor, blade and shroud assembly.
2. Raise the car and support it with safety stands.
3. Unfasten the left-hand splash shield bolts and remove the shield.

CAUTION Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.

1. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container.
2. Disconnect the lower radiator hose and if equipped with an automatic transaxle, the lower oil cooler outlet tube.
3. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, Unfasten the oil cooler tube bracket bolts.
4. Lower the car and disconnect the upper radiator hose.
5. Remove the radiator cap and disconnect the radiator overflow hose.
6. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, disconnect the upper oil cooler outlet tube.
7. Unfasten the four radiator bracket bolts and remove the radiator from the engine compartment.

To install:

1. Install the radiator and tighten the bracket bolts.
2. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, connect the upper oil cooler outlet tube.
3. Install the radiator cap and connect the radiator overflow hose.
4. Connect the upper radiator hose, then raise the car and support it with safety stands.
5. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, tighten the oil cooler tube bracket bolts.
6. Connect the lower radiator hose and if equipped with an automatic transaxle, the lower oil cooler outlet tube.
7. Fill the cooling system with the specified amount and mixture of coolant.
8. Install the splash shield and tighten the bolts.
9. Lower the car and install the shroud, blade and fan motor assembly.
10. Start the car and check for coolant leaks.

Hope helps (remember to rate this asnwer).

P1443 Evaporative Emission Control System Control Valve The Evaporative Emission Control System monitors the fuel vapor flow between the engine intake manifold and the EVAP canister. The system failure occurs when a leak or blockage between the intake manifold, the EVAP canister purge valve and the EVAP canister is detected by the PCM.

Code P1443 Possible Causes:

- Pinched, blocked or plugged fuel vapor tubes/hoses (except between fuel tank and EVAP canister)

- Damaged EVAP canister

- Disconnected, cracked or cut fuel vapor tubes/hoses (except between fuel tank and EVAP canister)

- Damaged EVAP canister purge valve

If you are refering to the 40 Amp Maxi Fuse located in the engine compartment fuse block, the "BTN" fuse is one of the MAIN circuits to your instrument panel fuse block. It provides power for:

electronic flasher, brake pressure switch, brake on-off (BOO) switch, door lock/unlock relays, park lamp relay, shift lock actuator, luggage compartment lamp, remote anti-theft personality (RAP) module, integrated control panel (ICP), dome/map lamp assembly, key in ignition switch, inhibit relay, powertrain control module (PCM) and the horn relay.

If this fuse is blowing, none of the things listed above will work. (and your car will not run). You will most likely find the short in the harness between the engine compartment fuse block and the instrument panel fuse block.

The wire you need to check is the RED/WHITE wire (large diameter) that goes from connector C-109 Pin 1 at the engine compartment fuse block to Connector C-240 Pin 6 at the instrument panel fuse block.

C-109 is located UNDER the engine compartment fuse block and C-240 is located BEHIND the instrument panel fuse block. To get to the actual connectors, you will have to remove the fuse blocks. However, you will most likely find the wiring harness rubbed through somewhere in the engine compartment and won't need to get to the connectors themselves.