20 Most Recent 1997 Ford Windstar - Page 8 Questions & Answers

the blendor actuators strip out the gear inside the actuator cases on these all the time. replace the actuator.

your owner manual sould have fuse chart. Some fuses/ekays in enine compartment. Some in car on left side of instrument panel

in car


Fuse Amps Circuits Protected 1 10 Power Mirrors, Anti-Theft Warning Light, Diagnostic Connector 2 5 Generic Electronic Module, Start Interrupt Relay Coil 3 5 Radio Illumination, Remote Radio Illumination, Electronic Instrument Cluster, Electronic Instrument Cluster PRNDL Illumination, Electronic Instrument Cluster Switch Module, Analog Cluster Illumination, Instrument Illumination 4 — Not Used 5 — Not Used 6 15 Rear Quarter Windows (LH and RH) 7 15 High Mounted Stoplamp, Brake Shift Interlock 8 25 Subwoofer, JBL Amplifier 9 10 Park and Turn Lamps, Side Marker Lamps, License Lamps, Stop Lamps 10 2 High Beam Indicator Electronic Cluster 11 15 Park Lamps 12 10 Remote Radio, Auxiliary Warning Lamp Module, Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) Module, Anti-Theft Controller Module, Radio Illumination 13 15 Radio, CD Disc Changer 14 5 Electronic Chromatic Mirror, Analog Cluster Indicator Lamps, Air Bag Module 15 — Not Used 16 15 Horns, Horn Relay Coil 17 15 Fog Lamps 18 25 Front Wiper Motor, Front Washer Pump, Wiper/Washer Relays 19 10 Generic Electronic Module (Pin 57), Electronic Instrument Cluster 20 25 Integrated Relay Control Module, Ignition Coil 21 10 Air Bag Module, Rear Window Defrost Relay, A/C Clutch, Temp Blend Door Actuator, Brake Shift Interlock 22 20 Rear Cigar Lighter, Power Plug 23 15 Multi-Function Switch 24 20 Rear Wiper Motor, Rear Washer Pump 25 10 Turn Signal Lamps, Instrument Cluster Turn Indicator 26 15 LH Aero Headlamp, Left and Right Trailer Stop/Turn/Hazard 27 15 Hazard Warning Lamps, Instrument Cluster Turn Indicator 28 15 Instrument Panel Cigar Lighter 29 15 Battery Saver Relay, Interior Lamp Control Relay, Interior Lamps, RH and LH Keyhole Lamps 30 25 Backup Lamps, Electronic Cluster 31 10 Rear Air Suspension 32 15 RH Aero Headlamp, Trailer Park Lamps 33 15 Anti-Lock Brake (ABS) Relay, Anti-Lock Brake (ABS) Module, Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Module 34 30 One Touch Relay, LH Window Motor 35 15 Anti-Theft Controller Module 36 30 A/C Mode Switch 37 20 Door Lock Actuators, Memory Door Lock Relay 38 15 Heated Mirrors (LH and RH) 39 30 Auxiliary Blower Motor, Ref. Valve Solenoid 40 30 Window Motor (RH) 41 5 Autolamp Relay Coils, Autolamp Sensor 42 — — 43 — — 44 — —

Yes the switch is almost certainly the problem, it is located on the top of the trans under the lever that moves to select gear ranges, hard to miss, it has a large multi-wire connector on it, it is adjustable so make sure u make a mental note of the position of the 2 bolts (these retain the switch to the trans case) in the switch adjusting slots. The switch is called either the nuetral safety switch or the transmission range switch.

I would think the door you hear flapping is the door that controls the airflow across the heater coil - and the fan keeps blowing the door closed, preventing the airflow from going across the heating coil. I don't know whether this vehicle is vacum controlled or cable controlled - so either it's a disconnected cable, or a leaking vacum line.

We Call that A Sleeper and usualy Hidden Behidn a Bump in the Casting of Bracket

try to get the codes we starring from this

You will need to Loosen the Exhaust Manifolds to get to the Rear Spark Plugs. The Gaskets on the Manifolds will be OK to reuse in the Repair. I Know, It is a Flaw that Ford has not Fixed as of Recent. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!

FROM LUSTYKID:

You probably have a vacuum leak in the hoses connecting to Temp Control switch. Remove it carefully and inspect. Those things have mini -O rings sometimes. Any leak in any of the hoses and things go kaput. Check to make sure no leaks in the diaphram also.
As for the person with heat in the rear only, you need to check to see if the door is closing and opening. Not sure if yours is also motor control. If motor control replace the motor that operates the door. Is probably stuck in the hot position. But before you spend money ensure there isn't debris keeping the door from operating.

white smoke often indicates a blown head gasket.... what's the level of the antifreeze... if you are checking it by removing the rad cap... make sure it's cold first

this is caused by burned/worn/erroded contacts in the starter motor solenoid, testing the starter doen't always show this problem, but I assure u this is what is wrong, I have 20 years of Ford dealer work to back me on this fix. Thanks for using FixYa!

FROM LUSTYKID:

Check to make sure your control lever is not disconnected. First

Second:
Check the motor controlling the heat cold/hot DOOR window. Sounds like its in the cold position, thus you are not getting the heat. The door needs to move and shut off the cold intake so that the air is passing through the heater core.

The third item is, although you flush the heater core, it can still be clogged up, in which case you will have to replace it. You probably flush the tanks of the heater core. Think of it as a miniature radiator. The tanks get clean, but unless the hot water passes from one end to the other through the vanes there is not heat, because the heater core is not getting hot.

Sounds like your transmission is slipping. 

maybe somethings wrong with the battery

Your sucking air sound means some vacuum hose is disconnected somewhere, Check PCV valve connection house, and any other hoses where suction is required. Check the EGR hose also with time they tend to rotten at the hottest spot. Especially if your idle is rough (too much air) or too much fuel from computer compensatig. Once you got that eliminated your O2 code will clear, or you can clear it yourself and try again to see what happens.

Fom LustyKid:

It appears you have a loose connection somewhere. Re check your battery wires ensure the positive is not loose.
Ensure your negative terminal is tight and clean and check the cable where it connects to the engine block.

Also check your connectins to the alternator, ensure they are clean and snug at the terminals, last but not least, have your alternator check. It could be getting ready to give out.

FROM: Lusty Kid

In the event you have checked the ABS sensors at the wheels and assuming they are in good working order, you need to have the sensor if it has one at the differential hump checked. Fords SUV have them not sure if your vehicle has one. But if this sensor acts up, your abs light will stay on and sometimes your breaks will chattered as if the wheels were trying to lock up. Advise.

not all alternators are not equal some produce more amperage recheck your amps ,try to inspect grounds on wiring harness and connections /corrosion / loose/ rodents can eat wiring

that is called a coil pack. unfortunately you can not set the timing manually. either you have a timing belt that slipped on the crank and cam gears,or you have an issue in the ecm(engine control module) you need to take it to a shop and have a scan tool hooked up to it. the technician will be able to reset the parameters of the engine in drive mode and clear all the codes active/stored which i'm sure there are. if your having a issue with retarding of the engine it's a good possibilty that considering the age of the vehicle, a timing belt issue is likely,so i would have them check that out. please rate this solution.....thanks....please post back the results

on some fords a special tool is required to remove the lines. but it is not expenzive