20 Most Recent 1998 Ford Escort - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Could be starter relay and any cable or wire from battery to starter not making solid connection. Could be ignition switch contacts worn out. Did it suddenly do this or had it acted strangely over time ?

On the passenger side, under the hood, in the firewall.

P0340 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction ,did you check the wiring ? P0340 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction The test fails when the PCM can no longer detect the signal from the CMP sensor.

• CMP circuit open
• CMP circuit short to GND
• CMP circuit short to PWR
• SIG RTN open (VR sensor)
• CMP GND open (Hall effect sensor)
• CMP misinstalled (Hall effect sensor)
• Damaged CMP sensor shielding
• Damaged CMP sensor
• Damaged PCM

Harness routing, harness alterations, improper shielding, or electrical interference from other improperly functioning systems may have intermittent impact on the CMP signal. DR1 DTC P0340: CHECK IF ENGINE WILL START

Note: Refer to the Pinpoint Test Schematic to determine the type of CMP sensor.
• Start engine.

Will the engine start? Yes No GO to DR2 . DTC P0340 is not the cause of the No Start. GO to Section 3 to diagnose the No Start symptom. Is the PCM firing the injectors ?

• Starting Concerns:
  • No Start, Normal Crank

Note: Extended cranking because of a no start can load the exhaust system with raw fuel, damaging the catalytic converter after the engine starts. For applications with Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Systems, perform the following after the no start has been repaired: Disconnect the electric secondary air injection (AIR) solid state relay, run the engine until the surplus fuel is used up, and reconnect the relay (disconnecting the relay may set a Continuous Memory PCM DTC that will need to be cleared). SYSTEM/COMPONENT REFERENCE (Section 5 Pinpoint Test unless noted)

• Add-on Anti-Theft Devices

• Visual, check with customer.

• Fuel/Ignition

• For LS6/LS8:
• GO to KB85 .
• All others:
• GO to A1 .

• If engine is now a no start:
• If engine will start and run normally at part throttle, check Idle Air Control (IAC) System.

• Engine will now start and run normally at part throttle:
• GO to KE2

• Exhaust System (restrictions)

• GO to HF1

• Base Engine

• Engine System - General Information Section 303-00 of the Workshop Manual.

• Additional Testing

• GO to Z1

1998 Ford Escort ZX2 Shifter Bushings

first you need to repair the shifting prolbem

have you had the OBD codes read ?start there and see if the are any codes to check out , otherwise i would check all the vacumm , air intake , fuel lines for signs of wear, holes leaks , check the air filter is not blocked , check for a strong spark and condition of the plugs ,if all these appear ok then i would recommend putting a good quality fuel addative into a tank of fuel and take for a longish drive and get the engine to a high operating temperature, get an addative that covers the catalytic convertor as well as fuel injection, valves etc as this will remove carbon etc build up from the sensors and clear the injectors etc , keep me posted if you wish

ive got the software that gives me the makers over ride code i will access it later tonight and give you the code .. matdav69

Do the plugs have spark?

Ok, first off, check the fuses under the dash. If they're all good, does the blower work only on high speed? If yes, then you have a bad blower motor resistor, which is located under the hood, near the blower motor itself. If the motor doesnt work at all at any fan speed, make sure the wiring harness that plugs into the motor under the hood is clean and tightly installed. If it still doesnt operate, sometimes tapping on the blower motor housing will kick it on, but if that doesnt work, you may have to replace the blower motor. They are available aftermarket, and arent usually too expensive.

Sounds like the clock needs replaced...I think it is separate from your radio...try an on-line or local salvage yard first, or talk with a Ford Dealer parts department...hope this helps.

It's to the rear of the oil pan which is located slightly to the side/rear of the front passenger side tire. There's a diamond like pattern on it that you can't miss.

It is mounted on the transmission. Hope this helps and best wishes.

I had the same issue trying to remove my speed sensor on my 1997 escort. The speed sensor was "fused" into the transaxle, and there is no angle to swing a hammer from above or below without removing the intake plenum. Your 1998 escort is exactly the same.

What I ended up doing to remove the speed sensor is kind of whacked, but it worked.
First, remove the battery, then remove the battery tray. Once you have removed the battery tray, you will have a little better access to the sensor. If you can get something under it and pry it up great; if not, you have a couple options.

If you have the tools (1/4" fuel line disconnect, 10mm and 13mm sockets, extentions, and 13mm wrench), you could remove the intake plenum and intake itself to get much better access to the area.
From there you will have access to swing a hammer while holding a small "sharp" pry bar under the sensor. If you don't have the tools to remove the intake, it is difficult to remove the sensor.

How I ended up removing the speed sensor was to remove the battery and tray, then breaking off the plactic top of the sensor. Then I pulled out the inners of the sensor leaving a small deep hole. I then took a 3 1/2" wood lag bolt and threaded it into the sensor about half way. I tried using a pry bar on the lag bolt, but was unable to get it to break free. Finally after thinking about it for a bit, I took a chain and put it on the lag bolt, and used my engine hoist to lift the chain. My car actually started to come up before the sensor broke free, but it did break free.

As I said, my solution to remove the speed sensor seems kind of whacked, but it worked.
If you don't have a engine hoist, you could make a makeshift slide hammer with a chain and a weight from a weight lifting set.

I hope this information is useful to you, and I wish you good luck on the project.

No. just the one mounted in the engine compartment

What warning light is coming on? What error codes are showing? Have you reset the error codes?

Your vehicle has a hydraulic clutch, and there really is no "adjustment." Verify fluid level in the clutch fluid reservoir, and consider replacing clutch plates if you are experiencing slipping.

Did you have the ECM programmed ? When you turn the key to the on position does the check engine light come on for few seconds an then go out ? Does it start an run ?