20 Most Recent 1999 Ford Expedition - Page 9 Questions & Answers

are brake pads low and hitting the metal indacator , also look at hub cap , sometimes they get loose and click

white and orange are your positive wires. You can buy some pigtails like this at a local car audio shop. No wire cutting involved, they snap right onto your factory connectors and aftermarket speaker terminals. Worth every penny.

the expeditions had a problem with the rear wiper motor grounding out, i would try replacing the wiper motor first, as for the fuse blowing, it is blowing for a reason, fuses don't just blow. if the wiper motor does not fix you may need to have someone go thru the electrical pin point tests to find the short.

Here you go, hope this helps.. Use a test light to test for power or 12 volts at the bulb holder. 1999 ford expedition fuse layout Google Search If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2496c4f07ad24453

Check your transmission fluid, and if that is good you may have damaged the transmission in a fashion that it may need to be rebuilt or replaced.

is it giving you a check engine lite?

Hopefully this link may help. Possible blend door not working 2005 Explorer Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums Bob

Check crankshaft sensor. Check fuel pump relay.

There are frequent problems with the parts you already replaced. The crank sensor and cam sensor can affect firing. Check intake for vacuum leaks with a water spray. Also look at front passenger water jacket on intake, subject to decay and will spray water vapor on plugs.

did you check injector operation

What about #7??

it may be the drive shaft or the rear axle or a wheel bearing

Possible bad actuator, switch, wiring or mechanical failure in transfer case.

With sharp blade cut rubber from glass to body

Unplug battery for 2 hours

The radiator tubes could be restricted or plugged.

jump the

Starter solenoid

on the passenger fire wall with the key in and on the on position. if the truck starts change it...

u need to raise the wheels off the ground an disconnect the drive shaft an spin the wheels by hand u may have a bad posi unit. the stress of breaking the shaft may have caused this

Every 4 cycle gasoline auto engine needs three things: air, fuel and a source of ignition. If it cranks then the starter motor circuit and motor look to be OK. To check for ignition pull a plug wire and short it to the block with a phillips-head screw driver in the plug socket (leave a little air gap between the screwdriver and the point on the block. Be careful the output voltage from the coils can run as high as 40,000 volts and give you quite a jolt if you're not careful. If you get a regular spark from the screwdriver to the point on the block, it is likely that your ignition system is OK. If not then start trouble shooting there. If ignition checks out OK then look for fuel starvation. Since it is a fuel injected motor there can be several places in the fuel delivery system to be checked. The first thing I'd do it crank it (no more than 30 seconds at a time unless you like replacing starter motors!) After three or four cycles of this with a non-start, pull a spark plug and insepct it by nose and fingers. If the plug smells strongly of gasoline and appears to be wet then fuel delivery is likely OK, check ignition. I am not going into too much detail on checking the fuel system as that requires knowledge that I think an experienced mechanic needs to apply to the problem. Good luck! P.S. (Hint)The public libraries usually have "How-to" books on most automotive models in their collections.

Easiest thing is to pull each fuse one at a time to see if one is blown, or if you have a test lamp or volt meter, you can check for voltage on both side of each fuse while everything is turned on.